Pin 3 should be either be VERY near 0v (typically below 0.02v DC) or above 5v (in protect). Double-check the voltage.
Its hard to tell because it goes into protect so quick.. are you saying to measure with the 4080 out?
Still reads around .4v then shoots up before it goes into protect theres it happens so quick that I cant get an accurate reading. I noticed that when I was touching the chassis and pin 3 with my hands that it would go green again with a more wretched squeal..
With the 4080 out, It's likely to be at 0v. Do you have any large capacitors (1000uF or larger)?
16v or more.
In some of these amps, the filter capacitors open and cause all sorts of strange problems. Connecting a large cap (the larger the better) directly across the B+ and ground terminals will often allow the amp to power up normally if the filter caps are causing the problem.
In some of these amps, the filter capacitors open and cause all sorts of strange problems. Connecting a large cap (the larger the better) directly across the B+ and ground terminals will often allow the amp to power up normally if the filter caps are causing the problem.
The 10v 'may' work but you'll have to be careful, it could overheat and fail (possibly explosively) if you're not careful. The 470 probably won't be enough but you could try it.
I have 2 of the 470's and 2 of the 10v's, should I be fine to wire either pair in parallel? The 470 alone didnt change anything.
the single 10v 2200uf didnt do anything either.. it got a little warm but nothing to remedy it.. the cap is rather small.
I feel as if im going no where on this, Ive tried my best but I dont think I have the capabilites to get this remedied. Would you be willing to take a look at it perry?
hi im new to the forum and gettin into fixing amps ive got a hifonics brutus bx1500d i went in it to fix a solder joint that keeps melting off on one of the coils broke a heat sink screw goin back together between 2 of the irf3710s heres where my duh moment comes grabbed some wire cutters got the screw out but in the process slipped and ripped out 2 pins on a fet ahhhhhhhh lol any who am i to understand the irf3710z's are better and should i change all 4 or can i pull off just changin the one i broke hopefully i can i want my beast back lol thanks
The paralleled outputs need to match. This means that you'll have to replace 2 or 3 FETs. Find the ones that have their gate resistors (on leg 1 of the FETs) connected together. The FETs with the gate resistors connected to the FET with the broken legs need to be replaced.
The only 3710s that I've found to work reliably are the IRF3710Zs. They're not necessarily better than the original 3710s but the newer 3710s (no Z) haven't worked in any of the amps that I've used them in.
The only 3710s that I've found to work reliably are the IRF3710Zs. They're not necessarily better than the original 3710s but the newer 3710s (no Z) haven't worked in any of the amps that I've used them in.
hello
Hello. I found this topic about Hifonics Brutus bx1500d.My problem is on the source. I put the amp in 2 ohm and y burned the source.I changed the transistors but one of the branches is heated.Final transistors are good, y take of him but is olso heated the IRFZ from the surse. If you help me with a diagram. ,motherboard is double plated and it's hard to watch. Y am from Romania .
Thanks.
Hello. I found this topic about Hifonics Brutus bx1500d.My problem is on the source. I put the amp in 2 ohm and y burned the source.I changed the transistors but one of the branches is heated.Final transistors are good, y take of him but is olso heated the IRFZ from the surse. If you help me with a diagram. ,motherboard is double plated and it's hard to watch. Y am from Romania .
Thanks.
Evening Perry my question what is the meaning of the red light that's in the power led on the BX1500d, I'm not talking the protection led.
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