Thank you sir for your interest.
If you can help me solving this problem it will be great.
http://aycu16.webshots.com/image/49535/2001188497317658360_fs.jpg
http://aycu16.webshots.com/image/49775/2001195649292834177_fs.jpg
http://aycu04.webshots.com/image/47363/2001124529251947731_fs.jpg
http://aycu32.webshots.com/image/47911/2001137471954550520_fs.jpg
If you can help me solving this problem it will be great.
http://aycu16.webshots.com/image/49535/2001188497317658360_fs.jpg
http://aycu16.webshots.com/image/49775/2001195649292834177_fs.jpg
http://aycu04.webshots.com/image/47363/2001124529251947731_fs.jpg
http://aycu32.webshots.com/image/47911/2001137471954550520_fs.jpg
Predator, perhaps you can list what you did.
When you removed the broken gear is that all you removed?
There is a white plastic lever which I'm fairly sure operates a switch on the pcb when the tray is in the home position - is it fitted properly?
sp
When you removed the broken gear is that all you removed?
There is a white plastic lever which I'm fairly sure operates a switch on the pcb when the tray is in the home position - is it fitted properly?
sp
OK.
Here is my list:
First step, removed the PCB from the case.
The CDM remained on the plastic chasis.
Then I unsoldered the 12 rectifier diodes. After unsoldering, cleaned the solder tracks with isopropilic alcohol. After this I fitted all the new schottkys in. Soldered them to the PCB.
After that, I unsoldered the following capacitors:
C2637, C2699, C2638. C2636, C2632, C2618, C2602 and C2505.
This capacitors we`re replaced by 100uF 16V Rubycon ZLH.
Then I unsolder those 2 caps after the +/-15V voltage regulators, more exactly the C2685 and C2686 and replaced them with 220uF 25V Rubycon ZLH. This are the mods.
Here is my list:
First step, removed the PCB from the case.
The CDM remained on the plastic chasis.
Then I unsoldered the 12 rectifier diodes. After unsoldering, cleaned the solder tracks with isopropilic alcohol. After this I fitted all the new schottkys in. Soldered them to the PCB.
After that, I unsoldered the following capacitors:
C2637, C2699, C2638. C2636, C2632, C2618, C2602 and C2505.
This capacitors we`re replaced by 100uF 16V Rubycon ZLH.
Then I unsolder those 2 caps after the +/-15V voltage regulators, more exactly the C2685 and C2686 and replaced them with 220uF 25V Rubycon ZLH. This are the mods.
Rectifier diode the wrong way round ?
Have you replaced a diode that is not a rectifier, by mistake? eg zener?
Have you checked all the voltages, after the rectifiers, before the regulators and after the regulators?
Andy
Have you replaced a diode that is not a rectifier, by mistake? eg zener?
Have you checked all the voltages, after the rectifiers, before the regulators and after the regulators?
Andy
There`s no need to measure after the rectifiers because I`ve measured before and after the Voltage regulators. ( In my case, measuring before the VRM is like measuring after the rectifiers)
Generally speaking, you must be a great dumbass to replace the rectifiers in the oposite way 😀 And if the diodes we`re in the opposite way, the device would not start. Simple 😀
The rectifier part ( now) is formed with 12 Schottky Diodes (MBR1100).
I bought from Farnell the exact parts that are needed for the mod. 🙂
Generally speaking, you must be a great dumbass to replace the rectifiers in the oposite way 😀 And if the diodes we`re in the opposite way, the device would not start. Simple 😀
The rectifier part ( now) is formed with 12 Schottky Diodes (MBR1100).
I bought from Farnell the exact parts that are needed for the mod. 🙂
My Marantz CD65II, same problem
Hello Predator
I have been like a maniac for two days
, trying to solve my problem with my Marantz, which have the same tray and laser as yours.
I also had similar problems.
After the "decoupling capacitor dance" the player errored and couldn't find disc. After some trials the turntable motor got all mad and was spinning the CD very fast. When I pressed the open button the CD flied out like a frisbee 😱
. But not always. By the way, the rotation was CCW. 
There is another thread about that here somewhere and the sollution to that problem was to fix a broken transistor in the PSU for the -10 volt.
After some struggling, putting an PNP instead of an NPN in place
, i finally got all the power's right.
Still the player don't see any CD. It spins the CD some small quarter revolutions back and forth. The servo for the lens and focus works OK it seems.
When I tried to see any light from the laser it was very week I thought....
I thought of trimming the two pots, 22k and 4.7k, but thats not possible to do right when the player isn't working at all. Manual says you have to use a special CD playing at the same time. People here in the forum says it's OK with some other "music" when you adjust this setting.
I thought maybe my laser is on the verge of dying. On the other hand it worked OK before my mods with all these capacitors.
I took the Bull by the horn and just trimmed the 4.7k ohm pot back and forth more and more, trying to get the player to read, and suddenly, at the more clockwise position then before, player started to work absolutely flawless 😀 I could also see that the glow was a little tad stronger from the laserbeam with this new setting.
Next thing I will do is trying to trim these settings better so that I don't burn out the laser to quick. (search elswhere here for pictures and descriptions on how to do it)
Conclusion: Many people got this problem with the CDM4/19 trays after there mods. I think the larger capacitors make the adjustment for the laserunit necessary. The voltages will never be the same as before the mod, especially not after the change of the diodes you did Predator. Schottkys has lower forward voltage dissipation then other diodes.
Hello Predator
I have been like a maniac for two days
, trying to solve my problem with my Marantz, which have the same tray and laser as yours.I also had similar problems.
After the "decoupling capacitor dance" the player errored and couldn't find disc. After some trials the turntable motor got all mad and was spinning the CD very fast. When I pressed the open button the CD flied out like a frisbee 😱
. But not always. By the way, the rotation was CCW. There is another thread about that here somewhere and the sollution to that problem was to fix a broken transistor in the PSU for the -10 volt.
After some struggling, putting an PNP instead of an NPN in place
, i finally got all the power's right.Still the player don't see any CD. It spins the CD some small quarter revolutions back and forth. The servo for the lens and focus works OK it seems.
When I tried to see any light from the laser it was very week I thought....
I thought of trimming the two pots, 22k and 4.7k, but thats not possible to do right when the player isn't working at all. Manual says you have to use a special CD playing at the same time. People here in the forum says it's OK with some other "music" when you adjust this setting.
I thought maybe my laser is on the verge of dying. On the other hand it worked OK before my mods with all these capacitors.
I took the Bull by the horn and just trimmed the 4.7k ohm pot back and forth more and more, trying to get the player to read, and suddenly, at the more clockwise position then before, player started to work absolutely flawless 😀 I could also see that the glow was a little tad stronger from the laserbeam with this new setting.
Next thing I will do is trying to trim these settings better so that I don't burn out the laser to quick. (search elswhere here for pictures and descriptions on how to do it)
Conclusion: Many people got this problem with the CDM4/19 trays after there mods. I think the larger capacitors make the adjustment for the laserunit necessary. The voltages will never be the same as before the mod, especially not after the change of the diodes you did Predator. Schottkys has lower forward voltage dissipation then other diodes.
Hi Radioman62,
Well in this case I have to options, without adjusting the pots.
First is to measure the ~1 V rail and 2~ rail which I didn`t.
Second is to measure the voltage across R3501 when the laser is on.
If the voltages are correct, then somewhere else is the problem. If not I will replace the corresponding Schottkys with the 1N4001.
There are 3 Schottkys that I cannot find in the rectifier stage. Trace them down, see we`re they go.
Oh, another thing I saw, was the 5V rail which is now at 6V or so.
I didn`t measured before so I dont know if it is good or bad.
How`s my english ?
Well in this case I have to options, without adjusting the pots.
First is to measure the ~1 V rail and 2~ rail which I didn`t.
Second is to measure the voltage across R3501 when the laser is on.
If the voltages are correct, then somewhere else is the problem. If not I will replace the corresponding Schottkys with the 1N4001.
There are 3 Schottkys that I cannot find in the rectifier stage. Trace them down, see we`re they go.
Oh, another thing I saw, was the 5V rail which is now at 6V or so.
I didn`t measured before so I dont know if it is good or bad.
How`s my english ?
The laser adjustments depends very much on that voltage. So, an adjustment is neccessary I think. Are you sure you measure the 5V from the regulator? It should be 5V or some tenth of a volt less. The schottkys have no impact on the regulators output.Predator864 said:
There is also some other voltages around. I don't have the schematic in front of me but I can recall some 6V as well as 9 and 10V.
About the schottkys. I can't understand what you gain to change them in this kind of machine.
Just a waste of time to switch to those devices I think, but thats MHO. Do you have a link to some elaboration and explenation on this issue? i'm interrested wether it's some subjectivist or not who thinks the word "schottky" sounds neat and cool to tell folks about, when he braggs about his mods 
Your english is perfectly OK
Radioman62 said:
There are +/- 5V, +/-10 and +/-15.
It should be 5V, but the DMM indicates ~6.2.
The Schottkys have several advantages over normal rectifiers. Too lazy right know to make a list of pros and cons.
Have a good night/day,
Bogdan
Well, I dont think is a big problem. Before the Voltage regulator is 10,4V, same as the Service Manual but after is ~6V. I conclude that this Voltage was before the mods.
The player was 6 or 7 hours a day on with no problem.
The player was 6 or 7 hours a day on with no problem.
Guys, I think this is bad news. 😀
Voltage across 3539: 0.100V when laser is activated. 3501 Voltage is .150mV
And a strange I saw. The +/- 5 V is just + 5 and + 6 at the regulator points. This cant be real.
Voltage across 3539: 0.100V when laser is activated. 3501 Voltage is .150mV
And a strange I saw. The +/- 5 V is just + 5 and + 6 at the regulator points. This cant be real.
Nah, +/-5V are ok. Wrong measuring point 😀. In fact is +5, -6 V 😎
Should I revert with the old rectifier diodes ?
Should I revert with the old rectifier diodes ?
Predator864 said:
No, thats probably not the fault.
Have you read my first post how I came to get my laser working? Read also the thread I link to.
Do you have schematic so that you can adjust your laser? I can't see anywhere in this thread that you have tried that option.
Radioman62 said:
But where`s the fault ? Changed diodes, bang, the player is dead.
Well, I have 100mV(I`ve measured the voltage across R3539 which is 100mV when the laser is on) where it must be 50mV. Didnt measure the Focus voltage yet.
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