DD belt drive platter via VHS tape

[Nanook]

directdriver... instux please....

ok, how to do it (reverse rotation)? What about the speed...if a smaller "platter" could be used and the speed increased and then drive directly via the smaller reverse rotating DD motor.


hmm , I think it could be very interesting.

 

[directdriver]

What about the speed...if a smaller "platter" could be used and the speed increased and then drive directly via the smaller reverse rotating DD motor.

I choose DD tables that have pitch or speed control such as Pioneer PL-570 and Technics SL-M3.

 

[Aengus]

ok, how to do it (reverse rotation)?

If you attached the platter firmly to the shaft, perhaps you could just turn the driver TT upside down?

Regards.

Aengus

 

[Nanook]

turn a TT upside down?

well it could work, 'ole Aengus

but I was hoping for a more elegant solution.

 

[Steerpike]

ok, how to do it (reverse rotation)?

Depends on the particular model. We discussed some Pioneers here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/147906-turntable-reverse-motor.html#post1886102

 

[directdriver]

no direct coupling

I have to abandon the "direct-coupling" approach a la Teres Verus motor style. First, too much work and fiddling for me so I'm going to stick with using a belt or an idler wheel that's more practical. On the internet I found this quote from another forum thread that makes sense to me:

"An idler provides a rubber gripping surface so that the motor can grip and drive the platter. If the rubber surface was part of the motor drive pulley or the platter, then speed would change as the rubber wears or compresses, but by making the idler out of rubber, and the drive pulley and platter out of metal, the drive ratio and hence speed, remains constant, despite the vagaries of the rubber idler size over time. In summary: It provides the metal/rubber interface needed for grip. And it allows the dimensions critical to accurate speed, i.e. pulley/platter diameters, to be machined in metal and hence much more accurately than in rubber"

All I need is a quality idler wheel in between the two platters or back to belt-drive. Or I will try to modify the direct-drive electronics to "underdamp" the feedback loop network to make it more relaxed sounding suggested by a member here, if I can learn how to do it... direct drive is still the most elegant approach to me if done right. Gotta stick to my screenname, you know.

.

 

[baiken]

I was thinking of ways to upgrade my p1 (can never just leave it alone, right?!) and came up with this very idea of using an old direct drive turntable to turn it via some type of belt, thereby eliminating any electric current or machine vibrations from the table completely. As I thought more about it, it just made more and more sense (if a little crazy!). Then I figured, wait a minute, someone else has to have already thought of this as well. So I did some Google-ing and found this thread. I've gotten some great tips off here too as far as belt material. I think I'll try VHS tapes first, hell I have some sitting around that I won't ever watch. I'll post my results.
I do have one dumb question though: Without turning on the Rega P1, just having the platter spinning from an "outside motor" if I put the stylus down on a record and turn on my amp, it plays right?! I don't need any power source just to send the signal to the amp right? Sorry, dumb question, but the whole concept is just far out to me!