I am in need of two DC blockers for my system, but am not brave enough to build one myself. I've searched the forums and have found so many different circuits that I am not sure which one is best. After reading all the information, I am still very uncomforable with the whole idea of building one of these. I am accident proned enough as it is...
I need one blocker for my subwoofer (JL Fathom F112), which has a 1500W amp in it. The other one I'd like to run on my Forte Audio 1A power amp and receiver. I think the receiver draws about 600W max, and I am not sure about the Forte...
So, would anyone be willing to build a two DC blockers that would fit these requirements for me? Please email me or reply here if you would...
Thank you
I need one blocker for my subwoofer (JL Fathom F112), which has a 1500W amp in it. The other one I'd like to run on my Forte Audio 1A power amp and receiver. I think the receiver draws about 600W max, and I am not sure about the Forte...
So, would anyone be willing to build a two DC blockers that would fit these requirements for me? Please email me or reply here if you would...
Thank you
Hi Echo,
did you fit the caps in inverse parallel as Bryston shows?
or
in series and back to back?
did you fit the caps in inverse parallel as Bryston shows?
or
in series and back to back?
It is a shame the search funtion on this site is so bad, there is indeed a DC blocking circuit here somewhere.. I think it was from Digi. I used it in my valve buffer
"It is a shame the search funtion on this site is so bad, there is indeed a DC blocking circuit here somewhere.."
And what do you think the circuit posted is?
And it came from this site as well.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=104491&highlight=
A search on 'DC blocker' turned up 145 threads, 'toroid buzz' another 48, 'transformer buzz 264!
And what do you think the circuit posted is?
And it came from this site as well.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=104491&highlight=
A search on 'DC blocker' turned up 145 threads, 'toroid buzz' another 48, 'transformer buzz 264!
Nope it involved some HV electrolytic caps etc...
If I get a second, I'll take out the pcb, and reverse engineer it again.
If I get a second, I'll take out the pcb, and reverse engineer it again.
This was posted on another thread - simple but effective DC blocker on mains.
The actual thread was
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/index.php?PHPSESSID=kquku98p8848igordvoa600u65&topic=12706.10
The actual thread was
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/index.php?PHPSESSID=kquku98p8848igordvoa600u65&topic=12706.10
Attachments
I really don't like the looks of this last one, cap polarity should be reversed at a min
better would be series opposed electros with the bridge rect voltage clamp trick from prev page
better would be series opposed electros with the bridge rect voltage clamp trick from prev page
smithy666 said:
Here is the website for the DaBlok
http://www.diyparadise.com/dablok.html
I built this and it does work. Just be aware of the potential safety issues. insulate caps, use a plastic enclosure ...
I built it just like the schematic, except using the large 100,000µf 16V caps, as I wanted it to handle multiple devices (several power amps) at once.AndrewT said:
I have read many users' comments on the circuit, and many reviews of the thing in use, and everyone says it works like a charm... But, I wonder what would happen in less than ideal circumstances - for instance during a brown-out, voltage spike, or if the power shut off completely and came back on (spiked instantaneously). Would the circuit still do only its job or would it send a horrible DC spike into valuable equipment?
I am perfectly capable of building such a circuit... But, I am afraid that if it goes wrong and destroys my expensive gear that I will only have myself to blame and I will have no way of replacing my lost stuff...
I am perfectly capable of building such a circuit... But, I am afraid that if it goes wrong and destroys my expensive gear that I will only have myself to blame and I will have no way of replacing my lost stuff...
Per Anders has a circuit and a matching PCB if you don't fancy doing it point-to point. I can recommend his PCBs, they are superb quality.
