Perry I removed one of the output driver board (it was alil hotter then the other one) and that stopped R52 from getting hot and no more short on the negative regulator 1-3 . But I have this on the regulators
1. 15.5
2. -7.27
3. 4.62
1. -7.26
2. -33.0
3. -19.6
That dosent look right ? Another bad part on the output side ?
1. 15.5
2. -7.27
3. 4.62
1. -7.26
2. -33.0
3. -19.6
That dosent look right ? Another bad part on the output side ?
If you place the black probe on the center leg of the positive regulator, I think the voltages will be right.
Ok will do , tonight I will check out that bad output driver board . PS I got your amp repair cd in today SUPER FAST SHIPPING THANK YOU Perry. Tonight I will load it in my other computer .
With your ohm meter, find the pin on the driver board that connects to the output pin of the regulator that appeared shorted. Start looking for the short on the board from that pin on the driver board.
I know that you'll want to skip around initially and that's OK but after you see what's in it, read through it in order (top to bottom in the directory). It will make much more sense that way.
I know that you'll want to skip around initially and that's OK but after you see what's in it, read through it in order (top to bottom in the directory). It will make much more sense that way.
WOW this cd is jam packed with info it will make my life much ezer with this Great job Perry 100% Happy I bought this !!!!
Did you find the short on this board?
Hopefully you'll be motivated to read most of it. I don't think anyone has read all if the material. The 'Class D - Type 2' page covers this type of amp.
Hopefully you'll be motivated to read most of it. I don't think anyone has read all if the material. The 'Class D - Type 2' page covers this type of amp.
Ive had long installs here and were making a channel letter sign " CAR AUDIO 30" X 16 feet " here and at the shop . By the time I get to the house eat am beat LOL ! But Im just going over the amp repair disk since the day I got it ,yes alot of material I LOVE IT . Today Iam going to check out that short . This morning I was looking at the differnet types of Class D amps, I didnt know that there were more than one . Will do Class D type 2 man your disk should be called the AMP REPAIR BIBLE LOL !
Resistance , diode , cap , ects. I have another fluke it has current mA test so the 233 dosent hurt that it dosent have it . Yes I did read #2 the 233 has a 2 volt diode test and the 87V has a 3 volt diode test . That the only thing that I wanted for the 233 to have 3 volt diode test for the fets test .
One of the 87s I have (I think it's the 87v) uses 7v on diode check. It's not needed unless you're checking LEDs and you can do that other ways.
I'd suggest that you look for a used 10, 11 or 12. You will not beat them for car amp repair work.
I'd suggest that you look for a used 10, 11 or 12. You will not beat them for car amp repair work.
I'm not familiar with the 115 or the 233. The 87s are very good and very capable but not the best for repair work. I'd suggest that you buy a 10, 11 or 12 and if you don't like it, then you can buy one of the others. If you don't pay too much for it, I'll buy it from you if you don't like it.
Ok good not the 87 then . I really like the 233 cause of the remote display 30 feet away from the meter , I can just image the possabilites when trouble shooting in car. Thanks for your input Perry .
Perry yep solder bridge was causing the short on the regulator and R52 to get hot . I check to find which pin from the regulator goes to the output driver board , and everything check out on the output drive board I cleaned up the solder joints , solder output driver board back in business . 1.5 amp current draw with output fets . I was checking the B-52 F-16 wave forms and comparing them to your amp repair disk Class D type 1 . Tonight I will reinstall the output fets and see what happens.
Perry I installed the output fets and now I have - 63 volts on the output terminals. 2 640s and 3 9450s . Thats as far I got last night . First I was reading your amp repair disk info very helpful .
Post the DC voltage on all 14 pins of the B52 IC.
IC#
Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin 4:
Pin 5:
Pin 6:
Pin 7:
Pin 8:
Pin 9:
Pin 10:
Pin 11:
Pin 12:
Pin 13:
Pin 14:
IC#
Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin 4:
Pin 5:
Pin 6:
Pin 7:
Pin 8:
Pin 9:
Pin 10:
Pin 11:
Pin 12:
Pin 13:
Pin 14:
OK will do Perry later on today , but the -63 volts is with the sync transistor out still . I dont know if it makes a difference ? And no high current draw .
Will I removed it the first time and I had that solder bridge and R52 was getting hot. Fixed that and put in the output fets and no high current draw still with sync removed . Just DC across spearker terminals -63 .
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