Dont forget to reinforce the mountinghole for the speaker with some plywood/mdf.
My cheapskate solution for dampingmaterial is eggcartons.
My cheapskate solution for dampingmaterial is eggcartons.
Bad luck, Have you considered Paper Mache, cheap and tough if thick enough, minimal tools. any shape you want...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/132952-casting-papier-mache-speaker-enclosures.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/132952-casting-papier-mache-speaker-enclosures.html
Dont forget to reinforce the mountinghole for the speaker with some plywood/mdf.
My cheapskate solution for dampingmaterial is eggcartons.
That's where I'm stuck....step one really.....how to mount the drivers. With the thickness I need to "bowl" out the back side of the baffle where the driver is. If I just cut a hole the entire basket will be covered......I'm not sure if that is making sense.
If I do that, using reinforcement becomes a problem. I can't figure out how to "bowl" out space AND get wood involved for strength.
Can you mount the drivers on the back of the baffle without making too much of a tunnel in front of them.?
Can you mount the drivers on the back of the baffle without making too much of a tunnel in front of them.?
Rear mounting is something I didn't think of....... would the 2.5" of baffle be a problem in front of the driver? The "tunnel" would be the mounting diameter at 2.5" thick........that seems like it may be an issue
It might be, unless you can chamfer it a bit (is that the right word?). How far can you go before it interferes with the mounting screws?
Make a circle out of 3/4 to1" plywood glue it to the front or even better cut it into the front.
Some plywood from old shipping crates if not thick enough glue a couple together.
No tunnel in front or behind speaker cut 45 away from behind speaker.
Perhaps some more pieces of styrofoam glued inside the box and you get a transmissionline.
Some plywood from old shipping crates if not thick enough glue a couple together.
No tunnel in front or behind speaker cut 45 away from behind speaker.
Perhaps some more pieces of styrofoam glued inside the box and you get a transmissionline.
I think I have an idea involving a pair of cheap wood bowl from ikea
This is getting weirder and weirder but I may have found a business idea.....speakers out of whatever crap you can find!!
This is getting weirder and weirder but I may have found a business idea.....speakers out of whatever crap you can find!!
Hmmmmmmm........ not much bass response in that size box.
As far as shaping a tunnel in for the speaker - shouldn't be a problem as styrofoam is easy to shape with a sharp tool. flatheadmurre has the right idea about re-enforcement - perhaps some thin wood glued to the front of the box - you should be able to use the keyhole saw on thin wood to cut a hole for the driver.
I like the Ilea bowl idea - hey - anything is fair game as far as this project goes!! I'm liking the idea of making a speaker out of what ever can be found - scrounged up - reused.
Open Baffle might be worth putting on the table too.
As far as shaping a tunnel in for the speaker - shouldn't be a problem as styrofoam is easy to shape with a sharp tool. flatheadmurre has the right idea about re-enforcement - perhaps some thin wood glued to the front of the box - you should be able to use the keyhole saw on thin wood to cut a hole for the driver.
I like the Ilea bowl idea - hey - anything is fair game as far as this project goes!! I'm liking the idea of making a speaker out of what ever can be found - scrounged up - reused.
Open Baffle might be worth putting on the table too.
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the Fs on the 126 is 83Hz - so it's not exactly a room shaker to start with.
This is true.....I live in an apartment and my listening room is about 12'X14' so I have always done without a sub.....I've been moderately pleased with the bass
I've always wondered what these Fostex sound like in the proper cabinets.
Would I be better to start with the 127 in these for now? I'm just trying to get something together for my recouping time. Ultimately they'll be scrapped unless I can fit one of my 103 varieties in after I get proper cabinets for the others.
Hey 503 - the 127 will get you a little deeper but will still be lacking in base unless you get into building some proper cab's for 'em and that seems to be off the table at this juncture.
Either driver would be a natural for OB with something to help from 100Hz on down - perhaps an H or U frame woofer - which can be an easy build. The problem being the need for some bass drivers - do you have ANYTHING that resembles a woofer sitting around? - or a couple of sub-woofers?
Here is a low cost suggestion http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=299-284
Either driver would be a natural for OB with something to help from 100Hz on down - perhaps an H or U frame woofer - which can be an easy build. The problem being the need for some bass drivers - do you have ANYTHING that resembles a woofer sitting around? - or a couple of sub-woofers?
Here is a low cost suggestion http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=299-284
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I have some B20FU20-54F 8" drivers and some EV SP12B's.
Now that I think about it, maybe I'll sell the EV's, get some wood and take a stab at building something. There has to be somebody in town that will cut it for me so I just have to assemble.
I also have some piezos and 3 way Radio Shack x-overs from ages ago.....maybe the BOFU, 126 and the piezo? I'll have to look at the x-over points again.......
Now that I think about it, maybe I'll sell the EV's, get some wood and take a stab at building something. There has to be somebody in town that will cut it for me so I just have to assemble.
I also have some piezos and 3 way Radio Shack x-overs from ages ago.....maybe the BOFU, 126 and the piezo? I'll have to look at the x-over points again.......
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Well I'd be saving the EV's for something special - it's a classic and worth sum $$$$. The Pioneers would be a half-baked attempt but hey - ya gotta play the cards you're holding. I think you could build up something that be "interesting" by using the either of the Fostex in OB and put the Pioneers into a U or H frame and using the pre-cut plywood stuff at the local big box hardware store. Around here I can get pre-cut 12 inch by 12 inch 3/4 ply for not to much. Considering that you are without workshop resources that could be a good way to bang out a U-frame. Then you would need to come up with the inductor and capacitor for the x-over - and maybe someone has some spare parts they can donate to the cause.
The Qts. on the Pioneers is wrong for this purpose but there are some ways to change that.
BTW - have you looked at Martin's white paper on OB speaker design? http://www.quarter-wave.com/OBs/OB_Design.pdf
The Qts. on the Pioneers is wrong for this purpose but there are some ways to change that.
BTW - have you looked at Martin's white paper on OB speaker design? http://www.quarter-wave.com/OBs/OB_Design.pdf
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Originally Posted by gootee
Do you have a Paypal account?
I do
503Timber,
Can you please post it, without the "at" sign (so the web bots don't harvest the address)?
(I was going to suggest a PM but others might want it, too.)
Tom
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The EV's are something huh.....I searched a bit on them and couldn't find much on that specific model. If they are worth something I could sure use the funds right about now! I'll have to do some more digging!
I think if I could get a decent amount of bass to say 50ish.....I'd be ok with that, are we in the ball park with the BOFU's? Please forgive my ignorance but what is U and H frame.....I have seen the terms. If H frame is the box without a baffle or back but with the baffle mounted near the middle of the box then that looks cool. In that case the woofer is on the floor.......any reason to NOT do that? Would you leave the piezo out of the equation?
I tried looking at Martins work before but I get lost very quick. All these meds have my memory and comprehension all out of sorts.
I think if I could get a decent amount of bass to say 50ish.....I'd be ok with that, are we in the ball park with the BOFU's? Please forgive my ignorance but what is U and H frame.....I have seen the terms. If H frame is the box without a baffle or back but with the baffle mounted near the middle of the box then that looks cool. In that case the woofer is on the floor.......any reason to NOT do that? Would you leave the piezo out of the equation?
I tried looking at Martins work before but I get lost very quick. All these meds have my memory and comprehension all out of sorts.
The EV's are something huh.....I searched a bit on them and couldn't find much on that specific model. If they are worth something I could sure use the funds right about now! I'll have to do some more digging!
Depending upon the shape they are in - check fle-bay - currently running from low bids of a few bucks up to a couple of hundred $$$.
In the ball park yes - maybe even into the 40's depending on the crossover - and that is gonna get a little tricky.I think if I could get a decent amount of bass to say 50ish.....I'd be ok with that, are we in the ball park with the BOFU's?
Yep - take a look here http://www.quarter-wave.com/OBs/U_and_H_Frames.pdfPlease forgive my ignorance but what is U and H frame.....I have seen the terms. If H frame is the box without a baffle or back but with the baffle mounted near the middle of the box then that looks cool.
I (we) understand about the meds' and are here to chip in the best we can. There are some good heads reading your thread - so help is at hand.
In that case the woofer is on the floor.......any reason to NOT do that? Would you leave the piezo out of the equation?
With U or H frame woofers it is common to find them on the floor. OR you can put some little feet or spikes on 'em if ya want. Being near the floor is a good thing in this case. You shouldn't need piezo with the Fostex - but you can always add it later if desired.
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