same feeling, i like the shape of 1865 bass. in my memory, if you got that pcm63 more natural and realistic, pcm58 more netural than 63 and precise mid, but miss sweet spot and magic lovely voice, highly recommand anyone to try these pcm63, pcm58 and ad1865 if you stored these 3 chips, i just ordered the pcm58 pcb from jlcpcb.
What I wrote are all impressions of those DACs in my system, with my room, my audio devices and cables. Changing the USB cable for example sounds almost like the difference between an AD1865 and a PCM63. And where are the interconnects, power and speaker cables. My room is a bit bass heavy, so the PCM63 suits me better than the AD1865. For someone else, it might be the other way around. I can build anything, I have an AD1865, I can easily get an AD1862, but I decided on a PCM63P-K. The Y version is very expensive and hard to find.
And btw if my understanding is correct, the TDA1541A also allows that mode inside a single chip and all the entusiasts here know it is sounding better than the standalone multiplexed data channel mode with the same dac chip. At least my TDA1541A Dac allows both modes and no doubt. (And is still one or two steps above Miros' but with a more complex surrounding)
But guys I love to read you and am learning always a lot of things with you but TDA discuss seem to pollute this cool thread which is centred on multi channels AD and BB chips only thanks the generous pcbs gift fire & forgett of the original poster.
It would be fair to discuss it elswhere or only discuss layout based on his design with solid shematic for dummies in the spirit of the thread, no ? If having a concrete enhancement, post it or leave it. The only usefull here could be how to layout the latch channel in order to receive the less jittered layout before the registers then how to avoid the less jitter after of this Le in the physical layout. There are certainly margin for a better layout with a less compact pcb to avoid lines crossing or near power grounds loops or large BF ground traveling modes on the RF lines...but hardly with a so compact pcb, so it is up to miro1360 only without the software pcb maker datas.
Best.
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I'm not that dumb, but I like it when there is a ready-made tested PCB so I don't have to bother. 🤣
AD and BB are not the only solo devices and the AD1865 that has had a mention or two is dual channel.
Yes but that is you who splitted on TDA devices to illustrate, just off topic here and mostly unusefull.
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I do no trust as long as you do not drop pictures proving you uses the same active and passive parts each time and just the main pcb and dac chip changed only. At iso perimeter. I have great doubts on some parts choice related to my experience at least.
Then if, I still will not trust you as an absolute best dac related to the others in this thread as long a hard tweaking with passive parts and I/V stage is made to balance each weak and good points of each dac chip....for an ultimate benchmark on a sota hifi chain devices (amps, loudspeakers, room, nobel price listener) 🙂
I did not make a DAC to participate in the competition for the best DAC or to go to war with everyone else.This is only DIY and only the Internet, it's not Ukraine.
Okay, amplifiers, sources and speakers are an excuse for us to get to know each other and hang out, but they are not what we are talking about.
Who normally thinks seriously that some source, amplifier, wire... is the end of the story?
Well, they are not important at all! Today one is the best, tomorrow another, etc... Maybe they will invent an even better way of digital conversion in six months and then what - let's start from the beginning.
Okay, amplifiers, sources and speakers are an excuse for us to get to know each other and hang out, but they are not what we are talking about.
Who normally thinks seriously that some source, amplifier, wire... is the end of the story?
Well, they are not important at all! Today one is the best, tomorrow another, etc... Maybe they will invent an even better way of digital conversion in six months and then what - let's start from the beginning.
VRS*
(*:Vader Retro Satanas)
Sorry for the off topic!
Altium PCBMaker seems free to use... ask myself if there is liltations VS a Kicad for diy non commercial projects?
Damned still off topic... MRS !
(*:Vader Retro Satanas)
Sorry for the off topic!
Altium PCBMaker seems free to use... ask myself if there is liltations VS a Kicad for diy non commercial projects?
Damned still off topic... MRS !
Hey guys, does anyone made PCM1702 DAC? My is still without sound (is something wrong with registers). I was send him to my friend for service. I'm waiting the progress.
I got it running! I am trying it out before I permanently attach the boards. After figuring out the switches on the s/pdif input board, I got music. First thing I noticed is completely silent background, always a good sign. Next, the bass is louder and deeper than my present AD1955 DAC. I had to turn down my subwoofer a notch. I am resisting critical listening until it plays for several hours to burn in, but so far...Nice! I fit in the mod by Hidy, from the AD797 spec sheet using a 2000 pF to ground and adding the 82 pF in series with a 100R as the sheet suggested, along with a 2k4 feedback. It kind of looks like a kluge, but I got it in with room in case I want to try out those Sparkos monsters. Tomorrow, I should have time to start opamp rolling. I will take my time and have fun. I have to get it done pretty soon because of the WAF. My wife will remind me it is sitting out in our living room. This sure does sound nice. Many thanks to Miro, Paddy (for getting the chips) and the rest of you.
For the folks on here who are using Sparkos SS3601 discreet opamps with Miro's wonderful creations - did you change anything (other than moving components around to accommodate the opamp), or was it just plug and play?
I have 10pF in the preamplifier for that purpose. I put SS3602 instead of OPA1612, and it is stable with gain=3, no oscillation. The size of that capacitor also depends on the voltage gain, the higher the gain, the smaller the capacitor. In this application for I/V gain=1, so you should definitely put 22-47pF. You can't hear it because it only works above a couple of MHz.
I just plugged the Sparkos in with no modifications, feeding a Salas preamp. Sounds great to me.