About something that I didn't necessarily know. Wouldn't it be necessary to adjust OPTIONAL TRIM ADJUSTMENT? There are simply resistors that are not expensive but good in accuracy and noise, but they are 487kΩ, so I'm thinking of buying them or not
Another question, I wanted to use for C7, C8, C17, C18, C27, C28, C32, C33 wima FKP series, but for a 5mm step, even on the moser there is no one from this series, is there any alternative?
If you don’t have the equipment and the proper “tuning” procedure, you could make things worse not better by installing the optional components.
I believe Miro posted in this thread somewhere the recommended audio files for the trimming procedure.
I have not bothered with it. Maybe in the future when all the other tweaking fun is exhausted 😀
I have not bothered with it. Maybe in the future when all the other tweaking fun is exhausted 😀
@Traktorist3d
WIMA FKP 100n is produced only in a big package (15mm lead spacing) 🙁 ... there is not the exact alternative, but KEMET capacitors offer a good sound result, like the 80-PHE426HJ6100JR05
As fellows mentioned above, rather omit the adjustment, it can be complicated and impossible without the necessary accessories 🙂
WIMA FKP 100n is produced only in a big package (15mm lead spacing) 🙁 ... there is not the exact alternative, but KEMET capacitors offer a good sound result, like the 80-PHE426HJ6100JR05
As fellows mentioned above, rather omit the adjustment, it can be complicated and impossible without the necessary accessories 🙂
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@ T.
A possibility is to try some nice smd package between 0805 to 1210, film type : pps / acrylic :
it will be as good if not better than FKPs but ask some tolerance sorting for the capacitance and to be soldered with some flux between the two 5 mm vias.
Stay ceramic class I for the shift registers, the blue ones of the BOM are perfectly fine.
Then local decoupling for the oaps is about your power supply tipology and taste if lytic from several uF needed - often not with modern reg chips and oaps but the local 100 nF or close... RTFM as always of the active parts you choose-
A possibility is to try some nice smd package between 0805 to 1210, film type : pps / acrylic :
it will be as good if not better than FKPs but ask some tolerance sorting for the capacitance and to be soldered with some flux between the two 5 mm vias.
Stay ceramic class I for the shift registers, the blue ones of the BOM are perfectly fine.
Then local decoupling for the oaps is about your power supply tipology and taste if lytic from several uF needed - often not with modern reg chips and oaps but the local 100 nF or close... RTFM as always of the active parts you choose-
Someone well know to this forum who can measure down to <-150dB has done a comparison.
Panasonic SMD PPS is ~20dB worse than WIMA FKP2 of the same value.
And PPS is ususally of a lower voltage.
Acrylic is only comparable to polyester (e.g. WIMA MKS2).
Nowhere near to MKP or FKP.
PAtrick
Panasonic SMD PPS is ~20dB worse than WIMA FKP2 of the same value.
And PPS is ususally of a lower voltage.
Acrylic is only comparable to polyester (e.g. WIMA MKS2).
Nowhere near to MKP or FKP.
PAtrick
FKP2 iirc (the non metalized ones with yellow back at Wima) is the ones I usually choose but just available in few nano.
My opinions, at those noise floor, you don't care the few db noise floor, you care what you can hear and sometimes the dielectric or the way the cap is made gives you more difference than what you mind and eyes should keep...
I know several situations where acrylic PPS was way better than C0G or MKP when passing the hearing test. It saves me a clock of IanCanada with Crystek 957.
Rogic himself uses them for the DEM decoupling of the good late TDA1541 chips. Go figure, C0G sounds crap here and nothing near the inductance of the 0805 PPS
At iso capacitance and inductance for some reasons we will not try to explain because we don't care here in this casual easy all to try pcb, they can give (often) a good equilibrium in the analog domain but with more surprise with the digital domain too. It's like some that putted everywhere the ES Muse because a belgium hifi review said they have the best noise floor : it was often a very bad result at hearing : designing with noise floor is not enough or all the todays devices since several decades would sound perfectly find.
I agree on the number you say, but sometimes, locally in the whole heared result, it's a no go for the music ! go figure! Don't want to arguer about that in this cool thread. My advice is perfectly good enough here for this pcb, but MKP too and if already soldered, I will leave the former caps. But as some of us have some pcb more, it's also something you may want to test if time enough and if it serves your whole devices in the final result.
My opinions, at those noise floor, you don't care the few db noise floor, you care what you can hear and sometimes the dielectric or the way the cap is made gives you more difference than what you mind and eyes should keep...
I know several situations where acrylic PPS was way better than C0G or MKP when passing the hearing test. It saves me a clock of IanCanada with Crystek 957.
Rogic himself uses them for the DEM decoupling of the good late TDA1541 chips. Go figure, C0G sounds crap here and nothing near the inductance of the 0805 PPS
At iso capacitance and inductance for some reasons we will not try to explain because we don't care here in this casual easy all to try pcb, they can give (often) a good equilibrium in the analog domain but with more surprise with the digital domain too. It's like some that putted everywhere the ES Muse because a belgium hifi review said they have the best noise floor : it was often a very bad result at hearing : designing with noise floor is not enough or all the todays devices since several decades would sound perfectly find.
I agree on the number you say, but sometimes, locally in the whole heared result, it's a no go for the music ! go figure! Don't want to arguer about that in this cool thread. My advice is perfectly good enough here for this pcb, but MKP too and if already soldered, I will leave the former caps. But as some of us have some pcb more, it's also something you may want to test if time enough and if it serves your whole devices in the final result.
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@Traktorist3d
ADA4627, ADA4898-1, AD797, AD711, perhaps LT1115?
I would still start with LM6171, as far as I know it is the best price/sq opamp 🙂
ADA4627, ADA4898-1, AD797, AD711, perhaps LT1115?
I would still start with LM6171, as far as I know it is the best price/sq opamp 🙂
Hardware is ready, fixed a proplem with exessive voltage on +5 voltage from LDO board.
Some parts are backorder from mouser, but found bits in my own parts box.
So dac is ready to get up and running, fiddling out i2s out on raspberry Pi 4B
Some parts are backorder from mouser, but found bits in my own parts box.
So dac is ready to get up and running, fiddling out i2s out on raspberry Pi 4B
Tubee, have you a reclocket and isolator after the Rpi ?
Mandatory for a real right clocked I2S for this good dac and chip...nigjt and day with the SQ.
@ trackturists...you should read the thread. There are precious advices about your question and more.
Mandatory for a real right clocked I2S for this good dac and chip...nigjt and day with the SQ.
@ trackturists...you should read the thread. There are precious advices about your question and more.
Yes use the fifopi ultimate reclocker.
But.. whatever I do, no I2S signals out of the setup. Even without reclocker hat, so I2S direct from rpi: no signal. 2 days fiddling out already. HDMI out I get sound but that’s not what I wanted in the first place
But.. whatever I do, no I2S signals out of the setup. Even without reclocker hat, so I2S direct from rpi: no signal. 2 days fiddling out already. HDMI out I get sound but that’s not what I wanted in the first place
Unfornatly, you must often have two I2S source to know if the problem comes from the source ot the dac pcb. Yes first solve the problem without the hat to reduce the number of things to check.
So you had any sound of the dac yet ? Read the aventure of ErnstErnst in the other Miro dac thread, the headphone one and check all with a magnyfing glass and a buzzer VDM 🙂
So you had any sound of the dac yet ? Read the aventure of ErnstErnst in the other Miro dac thread, the headphone one and check all with a magnyfing glass and a buzzer VDM 🙂