It should work with the LT108x regs but kind of finicky to keep stable. I'd recommend the LM338 for higher current, seems on par with LM317 performance (with denoiser).
I want to try LM7812 + dienoiser in the page 159 with breadboard, but I don't have C5 (22nf). Can I use 0.1uf? Please recommend me a design for LM7812.
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I cannot find the 7812 on "my" page 159, but the exact place varies according to the user's settings. You should always use the permalink (top right of the post, #xyz) for reference.
I assume C5 is the compensation cap; in this case, using a larger value should be OK, it will just kill some of the HF performance.
22nF is a very common value, and you should be able to find one around, even if it is means cannibalizing the old TV set of your grandma
I assume C5 is the compensation cap; in this case, using a larger value should be OK, it will just kill some of the HF performance.
22nF is a very common value, and you should be able to find one around, even if it is means cannibalizing the old TV set of your grandma
Oh, I made it. KA7812 + denoiser. First time I worked with breadboard, not nice but it's worked.
Quick comparing with Smps 3080, the high range is less harsh.
Quick comparing with Smps 3080, the high range is less harsh.
OK, when you have the opportunity, try reducing the capacitor, it will improve the HF performance.
And try to use a less flimsy output cable: it degrades the output impedance
And try to use a less flimsy output cable: it degrades the output impedance
my caps are 5600uf, 220uf, 22uf, 470uf as ouput.
I cannot measure, so I'm wondering if my diy board can be better the below assembled board?.
I cannot measure, so I'm wondering if my diy board can be better the below assembled board?.
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Your build seems healthy enough, meaning its performance with the dienoiser should exceed that of the example board (but for a definitive answer, you would need to test both in the same conditions)
Hi. Very much would like to try the nonoiser on my next preamp. Id like to know if the robustness of the 317 337 regulators would be preserved tho- such as short circuit protection ect.
If you use protection diodes (see application notes), none of the functional characteristics of the original regulator will be altered
R6 Value
Note that if you use a very high performance device like the ZTX, the 47 ohm protection resistor will become the main noise source, and should be reduced to 22 or 10 ohm[/QUOTE]
Is this referring to the DeNoiser or DieNoiser or No Noiser ?
Note that if you use a very high performance device like the ZTX, the 47 ohm protection resistor will become the main noise source, and should be reduced to 22 or 10 ohm[/QUOTE]
Is this referring to the DeNoiser or DieNoiser or No Noiser ?
I made dienoiser with what I have but not test yet.
Some values of caps are different: 330uf (220uf), 47uf (22uf), 0.1uf (22nf), do not use 22R with 0.1uf.
Is there any issue to test this with reg KA7812 12v 1A?
Some values of caps are different: 330uf (220uf), 47uf (22uf), 0.1uf (22nf), do not use 22R with 0.1uf.
Is there any issue to test this with reg KA7812 12v 1A?
Mostly the dienoiser and nonoiser, but it will have a small effect on the denoiser.
Ecaps value are relatively unimportant (their tolerance is large anyway).
A larger compensation cap will not cause problems, except a reduced correction at high frequencies, but omitting the series resistor could lead to instabilities.
I did not personally test the 78xx series, and I cannot tell whether it is going to be stable or not, but Trileru made lots of experiments and he could provide an answer.
Sticking with tried and tested configurations is always safer
I don't remember the particularities of the fixed voltage regulators, but I'd use 1-3R in series with the comp cap. 100nF seems a bit high but should work.
I'd personally go to the extra effort of replacing the fixed voltage type with an adjustable LM317 + the extra resistors. You'd still have to mod the 7812 to add 100R between GND pin and GND on the pcb. Might as well put a LM317 + another resistor between OUT and ADJ pins.
I'd personally go to the extra effort of replacing the fixed voltage type with an adjustable LM317 + the extra resistors. You'd still have to mod the 7812 to add 100R between GND pin and GND on the pcb. Might as well put a LM317 + another resistor between OUT and ADJ pins.
Actually, I do not have an existing PSU using LM317, and I have 2x7812 around (not being used). So I would like to test to compare with LT1084.
In the dienoiser above, I used BC557 in place of BC327 (PNP) and BC547 in BC337 (NPN). Is this correct (just in case)?
In the dienoiser above, I used BC557 in place of BC327 (PNP) and BC547 in BC337 (NPN). Is this correct (just in case)?
Never tried those versions. Might have a bit higher noise with those instead of the BC337/BC327.
I have tested them, and found that they had a moderately higher noise than 327/337.
For the denoiser, it doesn't really matter, but for the die- no-noiser, it makes a ~2dB difference
For the denoiser, it doesn't really matter, but for the die- no-noiser, it makes a ~2dB difference
without testing bc547 bc557, I replaced them by bc337 bc327.
using in preamp fx audio tube 03, 12v 1A, but I moded (replaced bigger caps...), it's a little hot, I still can touch to the heat dissipation for some seconds.
I can hear the better sound (compare to LT1084).
using in preamp fx audio tube 03, 12v 1A, but I moded (replaced bigger caps...), it's a little hot, I still can touch to the heat dissipation for some seconds.
I can hear the better sound (compare to LT1084).
You can try to sense the output closer to the point of load. Maybe right at the output connector.
Thank you.
In the output, after sense, I use 0.1uf cap then e-cap 330uf 25v. I read somewhere saying that do not use ceramic cap, isn't it?