update: got a fancy Craftsman router (cost almost as much as the rest of the project) for rounding corners on this and other projects. Cut about 2/3 of my pieces.
After making most of the cuts, and seeing that everything was within 1/2 a millimeter of spec, I was feeling a bit masochistic. So I got some Kilz2 primer and Rustoleum Gloss White paint.
(actually the satin finish paint had a spelling error on the back of the can, so I asserted my right as a consumer to promote educational values in the paint industry
)
We shall see if my talent can keep up with my ego Pix in a day or two.
After making most of the cuts, and seeing that everything was within 1/2 a millimeter of spec, I was feeling a bit masochistic. So I got some Kilz2 primer and Rustoleum Gloss White paint.
(actually the satin finish paint had a spelling error on the back of the can, so I asserted my right as a consumer to promote educational values in the paint industry
)We shall see if my talent can keep up with my ego
Pix in a day or two.
Tang Band W3-593SF?
I have built 2 pairs of Cyburgs with TB 871S with notch filters. I can vouch for their excellence with ample bass.
Anyone try the Tang Band W3-593SF? Similar specs, as outlined here.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-809
I have 4 of them in the garage being wasted.... Same notch filter setting?, would appreciate help.
thanks,
gychang
I have built 2 pairs of Cyburgs with TB 871S with notch filters. I can vouch for their excellence with ample bass.
Anyone try the Tang Band W3-593SF? Similar specs, as outlined here.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-809
I have 4 of them in the garage being wasted.... Same notch filter setting?, would appreciate help.
thanks,
gychang
Attachments
I think these TB's will do nicely, the notch of the 871 might work, specs and imp curve look pretty much alike..
thanks for digging the thread up btw, so I can report on the Needle with the 9cm Vifa 9 BGS 119/8 : wonderfull combination. I tested it with the notch used for the PicoLino2. highs are exelent, comparable to the Omnes Audio BB3.01, lows are a lot better (the larger Xmax and Sd do pay off).
Next in line is the TB W3-1285, they're built and paited, but I want to make a notch before I start to listen....
in May I will do a sound-off on a DIY listing day with the 4 Needles I have.... let's see what the verdict is then
thanks for digging the thread up btw, so I can report on the Needle with the 9cm Vifa 9 BGS 119/8 : wonderfull combination. I tested it with the notch used for the PicoLino2. highs are exelent, comparable to the Omnes Audio BB3.01, lows are a lot better (the larger Xmax and Sd do pay off).
Next in line is the TB W3-1285, they're built and paited, but I want to make a notch before I start to listen....
in May I will do a sound-off on a DIY listing day with the 4 Needles I have.... let's see what the verdict is then
Needle Web Site
Having read the thread from when it started and made a pair myself.
I thought I'd put this up about the way I made mine;
http://www.ipwm.org/needle/
Jim
Having read the thread from when it started and made a pair myself.
I thought I'd put this up about the way I made mine;
http://www.ipwm.org/needle/
Jim
kristleifur said:
If you're wondering about a sub for your needles I suggest you go for it. I think it's a big, big improvement.
I went back and reviewed my post. In retrospect, that post had mainly been about the specific sub I got. The quality of the bass was good for cheap, but still basically cheap.
I didn't spend so much time talking about the effect the sub had on the needles. The difference there was big and good. I wired through the speaker level outs and ins on the sub, so I was able to take a load off the needles. Keeping those babies in their linear gap a higher percentage of the time really made a difference. The biggest difference I noticed was that the needles were more dynamic. There was a clarity increase, I bet it would have been more noticable with a higher end crossover than the little plate amp.
After tweaking on the knobs of the plate amp for a couple of days I was able to integrate it with the speakers to an extent that I didn't feel like it subtracted from their strengths. Took a while to home in on a sweet spot, however. The little plate amp only had tick marks on the knobs, so I can't tell you the gain, frequency or slope that I ended up homing in on.
I think a 10in woofer and a quality 70 or 100 watts would plenty. Though I was very pleased with my end results, I think the crossover used in mine was maybe questionable. It would be interesting to see what a well-done active cross to handle the sub integration could do.
I have since passed on my needles, and am now listening to fostex 6 inchers in the Metronome cabinet*. This setup (no sub) is sonically superior in every way to the needles alone, but the needles + the cheap sub came pretty darn close.
* Still dialing this setup in, however.
bARTaudio said:
Well, no. I did some experimenting with this and I found that putting 45 degree corner blocks in a 180 degree bend had absolutely no affect on the bass response of a folded TQWT. It does however increase the bandwidth of the port, i.e., more high frequency output. This is exactly what you do not want.
Your best bet is to leave any corner smoothing out and place some damping in the bend, like a sheet of high density fiberglass on the inside top of your cabinet.
Bob
my cat ate my TB
So here's my first DIY audio build.
I used the W3-871SC from partsexpress, a bunch of pine project board, and bought a table saw to make it all easy
Unfortunately, about 12 hours after project completion, my cat Leets slashed one of the drivers while climbing the needle. Another $25 to add to her tab of destruction.
So, whats a good way to cat-proof the exposed drivers, while keeping the awesome sound?
Cheers,
Mitch
So here's my first DIY audio build.
I used the W3-871SC from partsexpress, a bunch of pine project board, and bought a table saw to make it all easy
Unfortunately, about 12 hours after project completion, my cat Leets slashed one of the drivers while climbing the needle. Another $25 to add to her tab of destruction.
So, whats a good way to cat-proof the exposed drivers, while keeping the awesome sound?
Cheers,
Mitch
Attachments
Re: my cat ate my TB
Pine looks really good. Thanks for the pics.
Re. the cat — heh. She's as good as looking innocent as she is at surgically incising drivers. Catproofing? I'd guess there was loads of info in the general loudspeaker section as I'm sure cats/kids treat fullrange and multi-way systems the same way, generally. There are probably some standard sized grilles around. Then it depends on how you want to fasten them. Maybe for the needles, you could scrounge up some kind of frame+screen from a Logitech set? Dunno. Maybe we can use the fact that the screws that hold the driver in place could hold a screen in place too. Then, the frame is metal, maybe magnets are a possible solution. Then again, maybe not. Also, maybe some sort of grill from a computer fan can be used as a McGuyver'd screen.
mrybczyn said:So here's my first DIY audio build.
I used the W3-871SC from partsexpress, a bunch of pine project board, and bought a table saw to make it all easy
Unfortunately, about 12 hours after project completion, my cat Leets slashed one of the drivers while climbing the needle. Another $25 to add to her tab of destruction.
So, whats a good way to cat-proof the exposed drivers, while keeping the awesome sound?
Pine looks really good. Thanks for the pics.
Re. the cat — heh. She's as good as looking innocent as she is at surgically incising drivers. Catproofing? I'd guess there was loads of info in the general loudspeaker section as I'm sure cats/kids treat fullrange and multi-way systems the same way, generally. There are probably some standard sized grilles around. Then it depends on how you want to fasten them. Maybe for the needles, you could scrounge up some kind of frame+screen from a Logitech set? Dunno. Maybe we can use the fact that the screws that hold the driver in place could hold a screen in place too. Then, the frame is metal, maybe magnets are a possible solution. Then again, maybe not. Also, maybe some sort of grill from a computer fan can be used as a McGuyver'd screen.
I see that there has been a lot of talk of using the HiVi BS3 driver with the needles but nobody has actually reported on the results.
Would a notch filter be needed ?
I am planning on building the needles and the BS3's are readily available hence my interest..
any comments appreciated.
thanks
Would a notch filter be needed ?
I am planning on building the needles and the BS3's are readily available hence my interest..
any comments appreciated.
thanks
d0g said:
I don't have experience, and I do hope someone speaks out that actually knows something. However -
Zaph at zaphaudio.com described that the BS3's sound very good, but distort below 100Hz. IIRC, sub-100Hz bass tends come out unnatural and boomy. That was the reason I personally didn't look further into them in a Needle build, despite the fact that they look V. sexy, and from what I've read, have a better midrange + highs.
In conclusion, I second d0g's RFI.
cbaldelli3 said:
Drat I'm slow on the reply.
I used a brand new Freud 3/4" round, but seated it to visual preference above the base of the router, so In the end I did not take off a full 3/4 material (the large bit just gave me flexibility, i was using 5/8 mdf IIRC). I routered the edges once the cab was assembled so I could use the bit bearings on the side wall as a guide. Much easier and consistent then roundovering the panels before assembly. I sealed the MDF edges with drywall compound (excellent for sealing the edges) and sanded it in. Plenty of primer too. The satin finish is much more forgiving and much classier looking than the gloss finish I did on my main set. Cleans well too.
As for the base, it needs spikes to dig into the carpet or it is a bit tippy. Building a weighted platform for it to sit on would have been my preference if I could do it again.
I also would not recommend the Aura NS3. It has good bass for the size, but the mid-highs and highs just simply dont resolve at a quality I wished. They are pretty beamy (poor off-axis response), nor do they play very loud without break-up. As a reference, my main set is a CSS FR125S. These needles reside at my parents house, and they prefer the sound to many "decent sounding" (imo) sub $150 commercial bookshelves. So it works out in the end. But if I were to do it again, I would use the Tangbands with the notch.
Reference link:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1234768#post1234768