Sorry if my posts have a bit of attitude, but I shouldn't have to point out electrical safety and the risks involved if your professional friends were doing their jobs properly, at the end of the day I don't care if you find my posts not to your liking but if it stops people from being electrocuted then so be it.
You should take the advice of PRR from his post #18 and look at the products he has researched for you.
You should take the advice of PRR from his post #18 and look at the products he has researched for you.
This is not something that hasn't been thought of before
Portable Power Distribution Units & Equipment | LEX Products
Portable Power Distribution Units & Equipment | LEX Products
I do agree that many comments, but not all, have been unhelpful, and some technically incorrect.
Can you perhaps say what you are looking for; what is driving this? For example, the functionality you describe is not something requiring a custom device. Is it just that you have a desire for quality that is not easily available, such as specific duplex receptacles and/or 12AWG wiring throughout?
Can you perhaps say what you are looking for; what is driving this? For example, the functionality you describe is not something requiring a custom device. Is it just that you have a desire for quality that is not easily available, such as specific duplex receptacles and/or 12AWG wiring throughout?
I think you both asked and answered the question very well. What I want is a power distribution box with no surge protection and no power conditioning. I want to use a quality 12AWG power cable to the wall and 12AWG internally and to use certain receptacles. And I want a 20A device given that I'm getting a dedicated 20A circuit put in. (By a licensed electrician with a city permit, mind you...)
There are many, many products that will work just fine. I'm using one right now. There are a few excellent products that are close to what I want. But they cost an extraordinary amount of money. So I figured I'd explore what it might take to DIY this.
Despite the assertions of some on this thread, I take safety very seriously. But that aside, I'm kinda surprised that on a DIY site of all places the idea been met with so much resistance.
There are plenty of forums I can go to for product suggestions. Wasn't what I expected here. Thanks for asking the question.
Well, if that's you want, how I would build it is just as has been suggested already. Just build it junction box style with parts from the hardware store. Make sure you have the correct 20A plug and duplex receptacles, and 12-2 wire. I would just daisy chain between outlets, no soldering, no stranded wire, just like an electrician would do it.
Thanks! Two quick questions:
What's the best material for a junction box in this sort of situation? Steel, aluminum, or polycarbonate seem like standard options.
Does it matter whether daisy chained vs. star-wired? Most of what I've read seems to suggest that the latter is better.
If I could get some solid suggestions on those two points, I guess I'd leave this thread happy.
May be because people don't want to assume risk
!As stated in #2, you have to know what you want to suppress before making a filter. Metal case bring protection from radiation and offer rigidity.
With small distance in enclosure, daisy chained or star-wired give in practical same result for live line.
Because installations like these pose very specific risks. As has been mentioned the risk of you, a child, a pet, the cleaner, .... dying. Or the house burning down and taking down neighbours' houses and lifes.
And if that isn't enough: in most countries you are responsible for the damage caused if the installation was a diy job. If done by a licensed electrician that electrician will be responsible.
It might be considered snarky and arrogant but I feel this is the most helpful info to give.
I built an extension chord like this. I use it for construction projects. Two duplex outlets in a metal box with a metal faceplate. I used the same metal box, faceplate, and duplex outlets you'd use to wire a house. I used a 14 gauge, 3 conductor grounded chord. I used a bushing VERY IMPORTANT where the chord goes into the box. The bushing mounts right in one of the knock outs in the box. Everything can be bought at Menards for under $25.
Installing a dedicated house circuit for your audio/video is an excellent idea. House wiring typically a uses common neutral between two circuits. This means that your designated outlet might be sharing a neutral with as many as ten outlets (more if there's been any hack wiring done to your house), depending on the age of your house etc. This introduces a lot of opportunity for noise to be injected into the line! A dedicated circuit, feeding one or two duplex outlets, will have a dedicated neutral lead all the way back to the service box. This is the number one thing you can do to keep noise out of the line!
Installing a dedicated house circuit for your audio/video is an excellent idea. House wiring typically a uses common neutral between two circuits. This means that your designated outlet might be sharing a neutral with as many as ten outlets (more if there's been any hack wiring done to your house), depending on the age of your house etc. This introduces a lot of opportunity for noise to be injected into the line! A dedicated circuit, feeding one or two duplex outlets, will have a dedicated neutral lead all the way back to the service box. This is the number one thing you can do to keep noise out of the line!
Hey thanks Fast Eddie. Clarification: When you say "your designated outlet might be sharing a neutral with as many as ten outlets," I assume you're referring to the outlet I'm using now and not an outlet in a dedicated audio circuit. Correct?
@Downupside
I started earlier this year, to make up two dedicated power strips for my HiFi system, with the idea of each being connected to its own CB. The source equipment all together draws at max 8 A (measured,) theoretically 12 A, and the power sockets in my lounge already feed from two separate CBs. The wiring is all SA standard 250V 21 A rated 2.5mm2 (13 AWG) stranded copper.
I started earlier this year, to make up two dedicated power strips for my HiFi system, with the idea of each being connected to its own CB. The source equipment all together draws at max 8 A (measured,) theoretically 12 A, and the power sockets in my lounge already feed from two separate CBs. The wiring is all SA standard 250V 21 A rated 2.5mm2 (13 AWG) stranded copper.
The problem trying to do star-based wiring is that, even with only two cables going back to the CB, it becomes too unwieldy to get them into and properly cinched by the CB screw-down connector. Also, the CB screw-down connector is designed to ensure that the maximum cable surface area is being clamped by the connector to ensure as solid a connection as possible. Hence the daisy-chain method is preferred.
I’m lucky insofar that the cable layout in my lounge is such, that the two outlets on each side wall has its own CB. The power amps will thus have their own CB - shared with a lamp. The source equipment will be fed from the opposite wall and thus also have a dedicated CB – also shared with a lamp. Of course, once I have installed the new strips, I will have to get a new electrical CoC for my house wiring as stipulated by SA law.
Good luck with your installation.
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I posted the link because its often good to see how the big dogs do something when making plans for a home-brew version. If it offends you can always avoid clicking on it.
I'm sorry about that. The comment was meant for someone else. It showed up right after your comment. I watched the link start to finish. Thank you for sharing it.
Using a dedicated outlet, with one or two duplex outlets feeding off it, negates any need for "star" grounding. Furthermore, star grounding will do nothing to keep noise from feeding through your service box; either from outside or from other circuits in your house. Audio equipment is supposed to have noise suppression built into it, anyway.
Also, you CANNOT connect two wires to a breaker inside the service box. Any inspector (or qualified electrician) will immediately notice this. And when an inspector sees a mistake inside the service box, he will immediately suspect that there are code violations in the branch wiring. I speak from experience. If the inspector sees the service box is in order, he'll say OK and then go and count outlets and lighting fixtures. If he suspects you're a hack, well, let's just say you can expect multiple visits and he'll be up your bum the whole time. You'll be sorry you ever touched your house wiring.
I've done electrical rehab work on and off for decades. I sometimes work under a real electrician but have submitted permits and negotiated with inspectors myself. You develop a relationship, and when an inspector knows you, he'll be cordial and quick. I've had inspectors say "I'm glad you did this job", hardly look at anything, and sign off on everything. They know my stuff is correct.
You could install a heavy duty 120/240 outlet in the wall (like for an electric range), and make a portable distribution panel that plugs into it like an overgrown power bar. That way you have an even heavier gauge running from the panel to your room, and if you want to make changes, just unplug the distro panel and rewire it in comfort and safety.
I was referring to star-wiring inside the custom power distribution box/power strip. All the in-wall wiring - breaker to outlet - will done by a licensed professional with a site permit.
I'm starting to wonder if I should have been saying "custom power strip" all along instead of "custom power distribution box." Maybe latter implies something different than what I'm intending?
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