jrevillug said:
James,
Go for it. I've built many a speaker cabinet using only screws and glue. Use lots of glue and plenty of screws, maybe caulk the inside joints and it will work fine.
They sound great, you'll be glad you took the time to build them.
Bruce
Re: Re: Recurved Chang
What you're describing is the focusing of the wavefront at a specific point in space -preferably a little in front of the listener so the sweet-spot isn't reduced too far. What you have in your living room is one of the only pairs of horn / waveguide loaded focused arrays in the world. Marc, near where I live, has another, and there's a pair of KimChi's in Germany. But that, AFAIK, is it, at present.
abpea said:
What you're describing is the focusing of the wavefront at a specific point in space -preferably a little in front of the listener so the sweet-spot isn't reduced too far. What you have in your living room is one of the only pairs of horn / waveguide loaded focused arrays in the world. Marc, near where I live, has another, and there's a pair of KimChi's in Germany. But that, AFAIK, is it, at present.
Re: Re: Re: Recurved Chang
Hey Scott,
With regards to the sweet spot, I think it was Ron who mentioned somewhere that the CCs should be listened to at 7 1/2 degrees off axis. I drew a 7 1/2 degree line on the bottom of each cabinet to help me line them up that way. I've played around with the toe in angle a bit and ~8 degrees seems to work best for me.
As GM would say, YMMV... 🙂
Bruce
Scottmoose said:
Hey Scott,
With regards to the sweet spot, I think it was Ron who mentioned somewhere that the CCs should be listened to at 7 1/2 degrees off axis. I drew a 7 1/2 degree line on the bottom of each cabinet to help me line them up that way. I've played around with the toe in angle a bit and ~8 degrees seems to work best for me.
As GM would say, YMMV... 🙂
Bruce
What you're describing is the focusing of the wavefront at a specific point in space -preferably a little in front of the listener so the sweet-spot isn't reduced too far.
Yep!
and ~8 degrees seems to work best for me.
Gee, i was .5 degree off.( slide rule error)
ron
Yep!
and ~8 degrees seems to work best for me.
Gee, i was .5 degree off.( slide rule error)
ron
Re: Re: Recurved Chang
2 thinned coats. After application there should only be a hint of shiny. Just to reiterate, this pre-treatment helps tame some of the Fostex shout and reduces cone self-noise. It also has the side-effect of making EnABL easier to apply (and to recover from mistakes)
Just don't plan on moving them 🙂
dave
abpea said:
2 thinned coats. After application there should only be a hint of shiny. Just to reiterate, this pre-treatment helps tame some of the Fostex shout and reduces cone self-noise. It also has the side-effect of making EnABL easier to apply (and to recover from mistakes)
Just don't plan on moving them 🙂
dave
Re: Re: Re: Recurved Chang
And why I prefer kitty litter as a cheap compromise.
GM
planet10 said:
And why I prefer kitty litter as a cheap compromise.
GM
Hey, thanks for that rendering, it really helps to put ideas in perspective !
Excuse the blatant ripping off off your render, I've altered it a little with high tech mspaint 🙂... Hard to do freehand with a dirty mouse mat.
I think my build will be along these lines... A little lighter at the bottom and a bit more feminine I think, I'm sure if I show the Mrs she will be only too pleased to have something swoopier in the lounge.
Once I've finished my Chilis and the KimChi plans are out I'll put together an independent chamber and reflector module (the guts of the design)
Then I can play with cheap MDF sides clamped on to get the exact profile I want. I should be able to use that MDF as a router template for the final construction.
Thanks all,
Sedge.
Excuse the blatant ripping off off your render, I've altered it a little with high tech mspaint 🙂... Hard to do freehand with a dirty mouse mat.
I think my build will be along these lines... A little lighter at the bottom and a bit more feminine I think, I'm sure if I show the Mrs she will be only too pleased to have something swoopier in the lounge.
Once I've finished my Chilis and the KimChi plans are out I'll put together an independent chamber and reflector module (the guts of the design)
Then I can play with cheap MDF sides clamped on to get the exact profile I want. I should be able to use that MDF as a router template for the final construction.
Thanks all,
Sedge.
Attachments
stevodude said:
I'm getting ready to fab this unit. Have you got a gut feel for the upper and bottom side dimensions? It appears that the footprint is 50 percent longer and the top-side is 40 percent shorter.
The one thing that is missing on this rendering, is something to break up the large flat area of the sides. There is a project, somewhere on one of Dave's sites, that has a couple of laminated horns, which are beautifully done, and have an artistic application on their sides.
I wish I could find it, but perhaps Dave can provide us with a link and picture. If you were to be creative you could come up with something that would add to the construction and looks of the project. 🙂
I wish I could find it, but perhaps Dave can provide us with a link and picture. If you were to be creative you could come up with something that would add to the construction and looks of the project. 🙂
Fonken woof
Dear planet 10
only car woofers might do the trick
snip
The Extremis fit into 22 litres (things are looking good for a replacement soon), but i'd really like to find a woofer where i could fit a pair in push-push in a similar volume (i can actually spare 28 litres for the FonkenWoof)
😉
Dear planet 10
only car woofers might do the trick
snip
The Extremis fit into 22 litres (things are looking good for a replacement soon), but i'd really like to find a woofer where i could fit a pair in push-push in a similar volume (i can actually spare 28 litres for the FonkenWoof)
😉Hi Bruce, welcome to the club😀
I agree with your description of how the CC's sound, I find it quite addictive and most enjoyable.
Sorry for the quick answer, but my internet conectivity is very intermittent (this is my second attempt to reply) 30mins in the last week
I agree with your description of how the CC's sound, I find it quite addictive and most enjoyable.
Sorry for the quick answer, but my internet conectivity is very intermittent (this is my second attempt to reply) 30mins in the last week
Re: Fonken woof
Car woofers often count on the cabin gain to get them flat to 20 Hz (ie put any sealed box with an Fs <100 Hz into a car and cabin gain pretty much makes it flat to 20)
The SDX7 is the Extremis replacement. It really is a very nice woofer -- i have a modified one sitting in a 14 liter sealed box right now and am working on a push-push aperiodic TL. With 5 dB boost at 30 Hz (it is the only EQ choice i have) it at least gives the impression of subsoinc. If one really wants that last bit of the lowest octave, it would certainly be doable... you'd have to run pairs push-push, and you'd have to make sure the electronics didn't get in the way.
dave
régine's said:Dear planet 10
only car woofers might do the trick
snip
The Extremis fit into 22 litres (things are looking good for a replacement soon), but i'd really like to find a woofer where i could fit a pair in push-push in a similar volume (i can actually spare 28 litres for the FonkenWoof)
Car woofers often count on the cabin gain to get them flat to 20 Hz (ie put any sealed box with an Fs <100 Hz into a car and cabin gain pretty much makes it flat to 20)
The SDX7 is the Extremis replacement. It really is a very nice woofer -- i have a modified one sitting in a 14 liter sealed box right now and am working on a push-push aperiodic TL. With 5 dB boost at 30 Hz (it is the only EQ choice i have) it at least gives the impression of subsoinc. If one really wants that last bit of the lowest octave, it would certainly be doable... you'd have to run pairs push-push, and you'd have to make sure the electronics didn't get in the way.
dave
Re: Fonken woof
I did a volume of the space of the swoopy chang, and is 0.091 cubic meters, or 91 liters (or a bit less for lifting it off the floor, so plenty of space for a 200m driver , probably even down firing? I dunno, from what I've seen people hear from the guy change, they have reasonable bass anyway.
heres a slightly more curvey render, with downfiring woofer?...
régine's said:Dear planet 10
only car woofers might do the trick
snip
The Extremis fit into 22 litres (things are looking good for a replacement soon), but i'd really like to find a woofer where i could fit a pair in push-push in a similar volume (i can actually spare 28 litres for the FonkenWoof)
I did a volume of the space of the swoopy chang, and is 0.091 cubic meters, or 91 liters (or a bit less for lifting it off the floor, so plenty of space for a 200m driver , probably even down firing? I dunno, from what I've seen people hear from the guy change, they have reasonable bass anyway.
heres a slightly more curvey render, with downfiring woofer?...
I really dont see the need for a sub, but if you must.
Geeee a lady in the forums! (ron slicks back his remaining 3 hairs and tries to act like a gentleman).
ron
Geeee a lady in the forums! (ron slicks back his remaining 3 hairs and tries to act like a gentleman).
ron
Re: Re: Fonken woof
I would not even think about putting a woofer in the same box unless it was a push-push pair for active vibration cancellation. Still 91 liters would probably do a pair of the 10s. A pair of CSS SD12s aperiodically loaded would do it to.
Reports suggest that these changs are hitting the mid 30s (ie just as low -- but with less impact-- than the pair of 12s above (a pr of 12s would be less stressed by a bit of EQ thou)
dave
stevodude said:
I would not even think about putting a woofer in the same box unless it was a push-push pair for active vibration cancellation. Still 91 liters would probably do a pair of the 10s. A pair of CSS SD12s aperiodically loaded would do it to.
Reports suggest that these changs are hitting the mid 30s (ie just as low -- but with less impact-- than the pair of 12s above (a pr of 12s would be less stressed by a bit of EQ thou)
dave
I currently have no clamps big enough. would screw+glue be Ok? I would most likely be using exterior grade ply for reasons of relative cheapness.
Several years ago when i was dinking with test horns for the Dallas programming i came up with an alternative for clamps.
I called it a "glue board". It was nothing more than 2 pcs of 3/4" cheap ply glued together with a buncha (<tech term) holes drilled thru.
I used 2x4 on the vertical edges of the panels and simply ran tie downs thru eye hooks from the 2x4s to eye hooks in the panel. I could glue up an entire horn assembly at the same time.
ron
Several years ago when i was dinking with test horns for the Dallas programming i came up with an alternative for clamps.
I called it a "glue board". It was nothing more than 2 pcs of 3/4" cheap ply glued together with a buncha (<tech term) holes drilled thru.
I used 2x4 on the vertical edges of the panels and simply ran tie downs thru eye hooks from the 2x4s to eye hooks in the panel. I could glue up an entire horn assembly at the same time.
ron
OK, skip the woofer.
worked out if I was going to build that in steel, would weigh roughly 82Kg ea without any driver or weilds, so probably would end up around the 85-90Kg each enclosure in 3mm sheet steel... not too heavy?...
worked out if I was going to build that in steel, would weigh roughly 82Kg ea without any driver or weilds, so probably would end up around the 85-90Kg each enclosure in 3mm sheet steel... not too heavy?...
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