gychang said:
I think this one is going to be the reference, what I would like to call a Picasso Chang.
Looking good, I know u r meticulous and exact. Final product will be a good one I am sure.
gychang
Hopefully the Picasso Chang will not look like a Gehry building.
Just kidding. I couldn't resist. It will flow like a Calatrava.
😉
I wish i knew what yall were talking about? I am more of a fit,form and function type.
Art escapes me.
ron
Art escapes me.
ron
ronc said:I wish i knew what yall were talking about? I am more of a fit,form and function type.
Art escapes me.
ron
These are just silly architectural references. He started it by mentioning Picasso and then I started to think of Cubism and made me think of Gehry.
Calatrava made the new addition to the Milwaukee Art Museum here in Wisconsin USA. Much more stylish.
Now we can get back on topic.
😎
The comment of a true scientist🙂Art escapes me.
Though I'm shure thats not entirely true, twas your curves Ron(figuratevely speaking) that started my imagination off down this path.
GY, i'm a bit disapointed, I would have used Byun Shi Ji Chang, I think a more appropiate reference, as he paints some very nice Gok Sun Ladies😉
The idea for fancy braces was inspired origionaly by the T-horns on The single driver web site.
marce said:
GY, i'm a bit disapointed, I would have used Byun Shi Ji Chang, I think a more appropiate reference, as he paints some very nice Gok Sun Ladies😉
marce: you are a true renessance man. I didn't know who BSJ was, now I know.
gychang
Look really nice marce!
Too bad that you will place them close to the rear wall so the keys won't be so visible!
Too bad that you will place them close to the rear wall so the keys won't be so visible!
Resident
You will get hints of them from the side, as teasers.
More inportantly I wanted to see what I could do freehand, sort of sculpting in MDF and ply, but with a structural reason.
I've now had an idea using Marquetry for a curved female form draped round a tree with a burr walnut serpant curveing round her feet and the horn mouth, which I think would look nice on a CC side without the side cheeks that I have added.
I am moving into top gear now to get them finished as it is with some JUBALation that I have been informed my speakers are almost readyto arrive on earth from Planet 10. The EnABLE pattern isn't exactly a stealth EnABLE, but should complement the rest of the speakers.
Greg, you are to kind, most people use other adjectives to describe me. I just like beauty in my life be it art, poetry, music, literature, its feeds my soul so to speak and provides a Yang to the Yin of work and servitude etc.
You will get hints of them from the side, as teasers.
More inportantly I wanted to see what I could do freehand, sort of sculpting in MDF and ply, but with a structural reason.
I've now had an idea using Marquetry for a curved female form draped round a tree with a burr walnut serpant curveing round her feet and the horn mouth, which I think would look nice on a CC side without the side cheeks that I have added.
I am moving into top gear now to get them finished as it is with some JUBALation that I have been informed my speakers are almost readyto arrive on earth from Planet 10. The EnABLE pattern isn't exactly a stealth EnABLE, but should complement the rest of the speakers.
Greg, you are to kind, most people use other adjectives to describe me. I just like beauty in my life be it art, poetry, music, literature, its feeds my soul so to speak and provides a Yang to the Yin of work and servitude etc.
marce said:Oh the binding posts face towars the amp, instead of straight out the back,
Looking good. Keep at the paint, it'll come together in the end.
BTW, is that an LG 50" plasma TV behind the speaker in post #276? A bit of a coincidence that I have, what looks to be the same model.
Congratulations on your exemplary taste. 🙂
Attachments
MJL21193 said:an LG 50" plasma TV ... exemplary taste
John it looks like your monitor is suffering from a bad case of M$ Windows.
dave
Hi John,
yep, it an LG 50", great for plugging the lap top in and watching windows crash. Its main function is for my beloved to watch her soaps, it also helps distract her from the rest of the mess I make, and four horn loaded cabinets in various states of completion.
yep, it an LG 50", great for plugging the lap top in and watching windows crash. Its main function is for my beloved to watch her soaps, it also helps distract her from the rest of the mess I make, and four horn loaded cabinets in various states of completion.
Marce,
If you _really_ want to distract your better half get her a PowerBook and show her FrontRow. Time for not only finishing those speakers, but building another pair too !!
Joke aside: Congrats again for a nice build. Eagerly waiting for report on sound (after the drivers land from the interplanetary travel)
Greets,
Florian
If you _really_ want to distract your better half get her a PowerBook and show her FrontRow. Time for not only finishing those speakers, but building another pair too !!
Joke aside: Congrats again for a nice build. Eagerly waiting for report on sound (after the drivers land from the interplanetary travel)
Greets,
Florian
Quick question for Scott or Ron (HELP)!
Would a small beading between the baffle and the side wall upset the sound. I of course ask this for aesthetic reasons and not because I have used this iron on glue film for my veneer and the last 2mm or so just dont seem to want to stay stuck down.
A 3 or 4mm wide quater round or similar was what I was thinking, the smaller the better.
Would a small beading between the baffle and the side wall upset the sound. I of course ask this for aesthetic reasons and not because I have used this iron on glue film for my veneer and the last 2mm or so just dont seem to want to stay stuck down.
A 3 or 4mm wide quater round or similar was what I was thinking, the smaller the better.
Thanks for that Scott, I am going to try some watered down PVA glue first see if that will seep under then put some wieght on top.. Normaly I use good old contact adhesive but thought it would be easier using this iron on glue sheet, not true and the first Iron I tried sort of blew up, so its cost me £25 to get Her a new Iron. I actualy think it is because its a corner and the iron cant get in as well thats the problem.
Thanks
Thanks
Heat a substantial lump of metal in the oven at the required temperature and use that to finish the corners off.
It might not be sticking because there's something on the wood underneath, PVA or the water based paint. I hope not.
It might not be sticking because there's something on the wood underneath, PVA or the water based paint. I hope not.
Cheers Mike,
I think again its learning a new tecnique, and trying not to destroy another iron. Im scouting second hand shop for an old cast base iron. Good pint about the paint, etc the whole front was sealed with a water based sanding sealer, the corners are where it will be thickest and where the least sanding has been.
The good thing is I'm learning and learning on somthing rather larger than what I've normaly built.
My last blast with the iron and PVA glue seems to have improved things, most of it was still stuck when I got home after work, I do think you have to realy apply the heat to get the glue to activate.
Tonight it will have had 48hrs so I'll keep my fingures crossed.
I think again its learning a new tecnique, and trying not to destroy another iron. Im scouting second hand shop for an old cast base iron. Good pint about the paint, etc the whole front was sealed with a water based sanding sealer, the corners are where it will be thickest and where the least sanding has been.
The good thing is I'm learning and learning on somthing rather larger than what I've normaly built.
My last blast with the iron and PVA glue seems to have improved things, most of it was still stuck when I got home after work, I do think you have to realy apply the heat to get the glue to activate.
Tonight it will have had 48hrs so I'll keep my fingures crossed.
I had a right game trying to use an iron and pva.. it did not work very well for me..
too much heat and the venier can crack.. and it does not stick very quickly..
i found the best results are from using heat senitive glue.. i used a glue gun with wood glue sticks to get the glue in and then the iron to warm the area... and clamp it very quickly.. big clamps or very heavy weights and something to spread the load in between..
steve
too much heat and the venier can crack.. and it does not stick very quickly..
i found the best results are from using heat senitive glue.. i used a glue gun with wood glue sticks to get the glue in and then the iron to warm the area... and clamp it very quickly.. big clamps or very heavy weights and something to spread the load in between..
steve
Cheers Steve, and hello, I think the last time we talked was July, before the CC's took over my life. Still havn'yt heard any Lowthers yet.
Quick question for Scott or Ron (HELP)!
I am about the last person you should take advice from on that subject.
ron
I am about the last person you should take advice from on that subject.
ron
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