You can build them separately on separate boards, on different sides of the same board, or however else you choose. The goal is to be able to swap in/out different attempts at crossover construction (e.g., the original crossover for your new one for the tweeter but not for the woofer) and compare. That said, you did well to avoid Nipper's questionable advice and not to spend a fortune upgrading the coils or spending a lot on expensive capacitors when the air core copper inductors and the Bennic capacitors in the current crossover are likely indistinguishable. He describes himself as a technician elsewhere, and his lack of respect for science or evidence doesn't remind me of any engineer I've ever worked with.
As for easy tweaks you can try that may be cheaper and/or more fun, you can play with the amount of damping material (usually fiberglass or polyfill like acousta-stuf) in the cabinet to make sound in the vocal range sound more lively or more "dead," and try damping some of the panel resonances using a material like Dynamat or one of its more affordable cousins to reduce the amount of sound coming from the cabinets instead of the speaker drivers. Think Parts Express for parts, not your local high-end fairy dust-infused boutique with equally fanciful prices.
If you really want to step it up a notch, spend your $40 on Dickason's "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook" and read how he designed a variety of different speakers, and about all the variables and measurements that go into a good design. I dont' know Scott Moose, but his advice in this thread is also spot-on - I'd go back and reconsider the things he had to say as well.
Good luck, and have fun!
John
(who never worked at Bell Labs)
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