So I'll say this.... Make sure you choose a "2way kit" tweeter mid combo, from a kit, meant to be a home theater 2way.... which is just the next progression in logic.
I had hoped to match a 3 way center speaker using a Revel ribbon tweeter. But the kit speakers using ribbons seem to use Raal, out of my price point. So kind of abandoned this plan.
Budget is about $4-500 for the bookshelves plus another 100 or so for the woofers, say $600 total. Maybe a little more.
Budget is about $4-500 for the bookshelves plus another 100 or so for the woofers, say $600 total. Maybe a little more.
These are all details that need to be upfront. You aren't starting from scratch, you already have some established items. I think it is sensible to want to match tweeters. Ideally all 3 LR and C would be identical matter of fact. So in your case, why not use similar tweeters for your build.
So your original driver list.
'Tweeter GRS RT2, 3k high pass
Mid Lavoce WSN041.00 4" Neodymium Woofer, 250 high pass to 3khz
Woofer LaVoce SSF082.00L 8" Paper Cone Subwoofer, 60 hz high pass to 250 hz"
What's wrong with this??? If you don't know, then you could just ask the board... then again theres this comment from much experience already that you seem to purposely ignore.
I made the font bigger this time....
@icenoir - your original plan for an active DSP 3-way was not unrealistic. As long as you go into it with your eyes wide open, and are willing to invest in some measurement equipment, spend the time to learn both the theory and the "how to do it" aspects, and have reasonable expectations about how good a first speaker design project can be, and have the patience and grit to make mistakes and start over again and again ... It is not an impossible task.
Whatever you decide to do, the people on this forum will be willing to share what they know.
Whatever you decide to do, the people on this forum will be willing to share what they know.
Ok. Then, I read that: ”Ribbon tweeters should always be used with a passive crossover! They are a dead short to the amplifier."
Do I need a passive xo at least for the mid and tweeter?
Do I need a passive xo at least for the mid and tweeter?
For that kind of ribbon tweeter, you need a series capacitor. The DSP can provide the final filtering, but the amplifier needs a cap between it and the ribbon. When you design / model the filtering, you will simulate the tweeter with the cap in series. So it is not a show stopper, it is just one more thing to take care of.
Have you considered an MTM version with two 5"-7" 8Ohm drivers? I love this principle for home cinema. Very good stageing and incredible dynamic, done right. Active DSP driven, not too diffilcult to tune. No need to stick to the old, complicated to fullfill d'Appo rules, the master himself said it isn't that important.
Do you use some automatic room correction? If you get the x-over point right, you can leave most of the fine tuning to the AVR. I had great results using Audyssey multeq xt32. Much better than any manual correction by the DSP.
In room developed speaker are very different from "universal tuned" kits. I think they may be better if you don't plan to constantly move them. At least active with DSP.
Do you use some automatic room correction? If you get the x-over point right, you can leave most of the fine tuning to the AVR. I had great results using Audyssey multeq xt32. Much better than any manual correction by the DSP.
In room developed speaker are very different from "universal tuned" kits. I think they may be better if you don't plan to constantly move them. At least active with DSP.
Can somebody recommend a specific Cap from parts Express? Also, since the Tweeter is 5 inches tall, should it go TMM?
You need to figure that out through simulation. For the purposes of testing/prototyping, you could try a 22 uf cap. This will give you enough impedance at lower frequencies to protect the amp, but it will have a minor effect on the frequency response.
If you are going to design your own speaker, then sooner or later you will need to get comfortable with simulation... I recommend VituixCad.
If you are going to design your own speaker, then sooner or later you will need to get comfortable with simulation... I recommend VituixCad.
Kimmo, who makes VCAD, has an incredible and detailed guide for measuring speaker components and tur them into a finished project. I find the explanation for a full simulation and it’s tools, and the order they should be run to be confusing, especially the first time. Therefore, I have seriously considered spending time writing a full guide on how to use VCAD for free. Not a guide on how to design a box or crossover per se, just a guide on how to use the simulation properly. Metaphorically, how to use a hammer rather than how to build a house.
Does that seem like the kind of thing that would help here, OP?
Does that seem like the kind of thing that would help here, OP?
D1sco, that would be very helpful. I tried using 2 different programs and have no idea where to start. Thank you..
Also, some guidance on interpreting the results would help. Even if I could run a sim, I would not know if the result is 'good' or not.
So at this point, are you leaning towards your original idea of an active 3-way which you design from scratch? or towards a 2-way kit to which you add a woofer... ?
j.
j.