I'm looking to replace the 900 watt Bash Amp in my SVS sub, not exactly sure how to bypass the original control circuitry. You mentioned an external crossover with an external amp, could you give more details on this setup, also my sub has two drivers at 4 ohms, is bridging an amp for more output an option.
@Rocknemo To bypass the internal amp, you need to remove or bypass the plate amp. I replaced the plate amp in one of my subs with a 1/4" steel plate, The plate has a small cutout filled in with mdf, and a pair of RCA inputs connected to the +/- driver terminals.
With the second sub, I removed the plate amp and disconnected it from the driver terminals. I installed two new RCA inputs in the rear wall of the sub and connected these to the sub driver. I then reinstalled the disconnected plate amp, such that its only function is to form part of the rear wall.
I run a miniDSP in parallel with the monitors from my DAC/Preamp. The miniDSP feeds a Crown XLi 1500 stereo amp. One stereo channel goes to the left sub, one to the right. I use REW to program frequency response corrections in the miniDSP's .
I am not a fan of bridging, which increases voltage but doubles the current demand. IMO, voltage clipping is not the main problem in most home audio systems. The real problem is current clipping, which results in compromised dynamic performance and elevated distortion. Bridging your sub system would result in a 2-ohm impedance, a really tough load for any amp.
For your sub, you could use a stereo amp and connect one channel to each driver, or you could use a mono amp and combine L&R channels in the crossover.
With the second sub, I removed the plate amp and disconnected it from the driver terminals. I installed two new RCA inputs in the rear wall of the sub and connected these to the sub driver. I then reinstalled the disconnected plate amp, such that its only function is to form part of the rear wall.
I run a miniDSP in parallel with the monitors from my DAC/Preamp. The miniDSP feeds a Crown XLi 1500 stereo amp. One stereo channel goes to the left sub, one to the right. I use REW to program frequency response corrections in the miniDSP's .
I am not a fan of bridging, which increases voltage but doubles the current demand. IMO, voltage clipping is not the main problem in most home audio systems. The real problem is current clipping, which results in compromised dynamic performance and elevated distortion. Bridging your sub system would result in a 2-ohm impedance, a really tough load for any amp.
For your sub, you could use a stereo amp and connect one channel to each driver, or you could use a mono amp and combine L&R channels in the crossover.
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"2 ohm stable" must be one if the most abused and misapplied labels in amp world.
Who cares it is "stable"?
That should be a given, or back to the drawing board!
The proper word "should" be "2 ohm capable" but they don't use it because it often can't be met.
Pleasures of Marketing 🙄
Who cares it is "stable"?
That should be a given, or back to the drawing board!
The proper word "should" be "2 ohm capable" but they don't use it because it often can't be met.
Pleasures of Marketing 🙄
Regardless if they can cope with 2 ohm loads or not, they look sexy as hell!!
Now we have something else besides Sanway,CVR and Admark ...sinbosen QC suck
I have the 4 channel one currently in use with the CQ380 DSP, until now quite nice. Drives a 18XL2000 with a top cabinet per side (or two for a 2.1 setup). As said, is some noise but after attenuating the top cabinet, it works good for PA.
PS: all 4 amps worked on arrival and packaging (and contact) was good.
but there are several models in their webpage
what model exactly you have, the DSP is integrated in the amp or a rackmount processor
The CQ models are all for plate amps. I have the PFA8000 with the CQ380 (yes I know what it looks like).
The 380 also has 1024 FIR taps available in total.
Need to do some extensive testing with it when I have them home again.
Was first looking at the PFA3002 with a CQ model, but want a closed back heatsink due to possible moisture coming in. The standard solutions of OMB don't have that with the 3002. So would need to design a custom plate with heatsink, which i can do, but takes quite some time from drawing to part.
PS: they have an account at alibaba, there you can see some prices. The PFA8000+CQ380 was around 400 dollars.
The 380 also has 1024 FIR taps available in total.
Need to do some extensive testing with it when I have them home again.
Was first looking at the PFA3002 with a CQ model, but want a closed back heatsink due to possible moisture coming in. The standard solutions of OMB don't have that with the 3002. So would need to design a custom plate with heatsink, which i can do, but takes quite some time from drawing to part.
PS: they have an account at alibaba, there you can see some prices. The PFA8000+CQ380 was around 400 dollars.