Corks inside a cd player?

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Corks inside a cd player?

Its just "snake oil" and "voodoo" isnt it? :smash:

I guess the limited weight of the pieces will not take any big effect about shifting the resonances. I did some test with damping pads of bitumen or some heavy metal pieces. The idea is to add weight to the player, make the lightweight metal housing more stable. Then you will get a resonable result...

cheers
Michael
 
Elso, are you saying its a complete waste of time upgrading that player OR that if he puts a decent clock into it it would have been a decent player ?

I have one (maybe a 610, not sure) lying about and had come to the conclusion it would be a waste of time doing anything with it

:xeye:
 
Clock

brianuk said:
Elso, are you saying its a complete waste of time upgrading that player OR that if he puts a decent clock into it it would have been a decent player ?

I have one (maybe a 610, not sure) lying about and had come to the conclusion it would be a waste of time doing anything with it

:xeye:

Corks, Ennemoser violin lacquer, rounding edges of PCB, placing pyramids into a CDP, etc. etc. I consider snake oil and a waste of time and money.
On the other hand replacing the masterclock makes an improvement in most cases except some very cheap players.
You can download it here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=199928#post199928
 
Re: Clock

Konnichiwa,

Elso Kwak said:
Corks, Ennemoser violin lacquer, rounding edges of PCB, placing pyramids into a CDP, etc. etc. I consider snake oil and a waste of time and money.

BUT, have you ever tried them?

Elso Kwak said:
On the other hand replacing the masterclock makes an improvement in most cases except some very cheap players.

You can make changes. Often adding a new clock produces MORE jitter than the original, but it is different jitter.

That said, I tend to combine adding Clocks and rounded PCB Edges & C37 in my commercial mods together with other pretty solid engineering changes. I find all this things have the potential to improve things, in differing areas and to differing degrees.

Sayonara
 
Re: Re: Re: Corks inside a cd player? Precious stones

Konnichiwa,

Elso Kwak said:
Better use precious stones, making sure you spend a lot of money.:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

I do not believe that quality or resultant effect bear any direct relation to cost, so I tend to use what the empirical methode has found to be effective at (relatively) low cost (case point, for the relative cost per treated unit the cost of C37 is minor, compared to passive parts, clocks etc. used in the same upgrade).

Sayonara
 
Disabled Account
Joined 2004
Re: Re: Corks inside a cd player?

Kuei Yang Wang said:
Konnichiwa,



I find that using chinese chess pieces works better and adds a nice air of far eastern mystique on top of the basic function.

Sayonara


You mean 'GO' stones? I would think the mechanical properties of cork slices vs these would be dramatically different. Also hard to control the glue interface areawise.
 
I lined the metal chassis of a Electronic Tonalities Foreplay preamp with cork sheeting , about 2.5mm thick. I did this to dampen the ringing in the chassis.

It sounded terrible. Like the sound you get when you tap the cork. The resulting music had a light, hollow, and dry quality to it. Impact and slam were gone. So were the inner dynamics.

I removed all of the cork after a couple of weeks. I don't know if other types of cork may work better or not.

I've had good luck using the EAR isodamp self-adhesive damping sheets, though, and you can get these from Michael Percy Audio. Very positive and dramatic results on the outer surfaces of metal horns in loudspeakers.

You can overdo the damping, however, as I found out when I put too much inside a Creek 4330 chassis and circuit board. The life was sucked out with multiple strips on the inside of the case and multiple points on the circuit board. This amp sounded better without it.

The C37 lacquer worked magic on my Lowther drivers and others, as well. This is my favorite treatment for drivers, bettering Dammar by a great margin, IMO. I don't know if this has a dramatic effect on electronics, though my experimentation with vibration damping with EAR Isodamp on circuit boards seem to indicate that vibration does have an effect on the sonics. So maybe C37 has an effect here, as well. Haven't come to a firm conclusion on this.

Best,
KT
 
Re: Re: Re: Corks inside a cd player?

Konnichiwa,

scott wurcer said:
You mean 'GO' stones?

No, they are wooden pieces with a chinese charater on top, somewhat reminicent of light coloured Shun Mook Disks. They can be even made to behave like Shun Mook if you know the "trick".

I personally prefer to conbine quarz crystal points inside the equipement with the wooden disks for the mechanical side, a nice big crystal point from the local new age shop does a lot more than 3 SM Disks IMHE.

For fun, here is what my (still) main Digital Player has applied inside in terms of tweaks.

The player is a 2nd generation DVD Player from Pioneer which AFAIK is pretty unique in using the same laser and decoding system plus (and this I believe is crucial to the sound of this player) asyncronous CD read (the CD spins faster than in normal players!).

Also, this player has the final generation of the original "legato link" DAC from Pioneer (an OEM design with a Wadia Style digital filter and pure Delta Sigma just like the old NPC DAC in the venerable Marantz CD63/67 series), a 48KHz/24Bit device.

I have added an Audiocom Superclock for the 44.1KHz related clock and now use an LC Audio Zap-Filter as analogue stage. The Clock and Analogue stage have each their respective linear supplies.

The switched mode supply has been denoised (the traditional way with a 'scope, extra wires and solder to reduce trace impedance, local bypass capacitors where they help and extra chokes plus some shielding instead of "just throw a BG Cap at it"). Large chunks of the Digital Audio & Video circuitry where denoised as well (Sanyo Os-Cons and SMD Ceramic Cap's where beneficial).

Further, ALL PCB's had the edges rounded off and are C37 laquered. Several LSI Chips and the DAC have copper foil shields added and have a Chinese chess piece and a small crystal piece (super)glued on top, more chess pieces are on the "CD clamp" bridge where also a large crystal point is located, the clamp itself has another chinese chess piece glued to the top (and yes, all these changes where audible).

The Chassis has been reinforced with bonded to the chassis "soundwood", that is spruce, which forms now the whole bottom of the player (15mm boards) and is also reinforcing the large surface inside the player cover. Some extra spruce pieces are bonded to the sides.

Feet right now are Hyperion Magentic suspension pucks (the commercial side deals with hyperion, so some just ended up with me), but air cussions (which come for free in Amazon's packaging) and Final Darumas have also been used and worked well.

The resultant player is quite singular in performance and does not leave much of a gap to a TDA1541 Non OS DAC. Outside it still looks extremely cheap and conventional BTW.

I keep comming back to this player again and again and safe for the nicer appearance I do not miss all sorts of expensive (and quite good) gear rotating through the system.

On Video BTW it get's it's *** whooped by my new Windows Media Center PC, soundwise the PC is out of it's depth though.

Sayonara
 
"Corked"

KT said:
I lined the metal chassis of a Electronic Tonalities Foreplay preamp with cork sheeting , about 2.5mm thick. I did this to dampen the ringing in the chassis.

It sounded terrible. Like the sound you get when you tap the cork. The resulting music had a light, hollow, and dry quality to it. Impact and slam were gone. So were the inner dynamics.

I removed all of the cork after a couple of weeks. I don't know if other types of cork may work better or not.


Best,
KT


Beware, your player sounded "corked".........:clown:
 
Konnichiwa,

Joseph K said:
May I ask - are You talking about the PD2029A or something else?

Truth, I cannot remember the Part# and it has been hidden below copperfoil for years. I seem to remember it to be the same DAC found in the Pioneer CD Player (PD-902 or something?) Tom Evans modified for his "Eikos" CD Player.

It is one of the few Delta Sigma DAC's I ever actually liked the sound of.

Sayonara
 
Thanks, Kuei!

Then it's either the PD2028, which was in the PD-S904, or the later PD2029A, which was, for a time, indeed migrating into the first DVD players, as well. Been changed afterwards for the PD8001, which is, if one can believe the guesses around here, is a BB1716.

Interestingly, it was the PD2028 which was implemented in all the now memorable great Pioneer players, like PD-75, 95 et al.

I have that PD2029A in my pioneer player, so now have some idea what You are talking about. There are some things which come through even in it's present [sad] status. But should work on it a lot.. :xeye:

Ciao, George
 
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