In US the price doubles or almost triple compared to Japanese market . They have the money incentive.
limono, yes I bought the Japanese version knowing I could change a jumper for mains AC power, and sort the deemphasis change (MarcelvdG, the components you recommended are on the way). The Classical Station here at 89.7 sounds one level better, but the other stations, harder to tell because their sound quality is just OK. For those, I switch to a Sony ST-J75.
You would think it would get 89.7 when the band is switched from Japan to North America or Europe, but nothing below 90.0 MHz with either. So, I have it on Japanese setting.
An American version has come up for sale, but to limono's point it was 2.5 times the money. I'd like one of the subject matter experts on this outstanding forum to convert a T-1000 back and forth, documenting each step.
Maybe one of our expert rf guys could take the designer out to lunch, and have him draw the changes on a napkin?
An American version has come up for sale, but to limono's point it was 2.5 times the money. I'd like one of the subject matter experts on this outstanding forum to convert a T-1000 back and forth, documenting each step.
Maybe one of our expert rf guys could take the designer out to lunch, and have him draw the changes on a napkin?
I mixed up the Japanese setting and the other settings; I wrote that I don't understand why it can't receive 89.7 MHz in the Japanese setting, but that should of course be the American or the European setting.
On the way:
Mfr. #: RN55C3321FB14
Desc.:
(2) Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/8watt 3.32Kohms 1% 50ppm
Mfr. #: RN55C1691FB14
Desc.:
(2) Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/8watt 1.69Kohms 1% 50ppm
Mfr. #: C420C153F2G5TA
Desc.:
Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded 200V 0.015uF C0G 1%
That will straighten out that frequency response.
Paul
Mfr. #: RN55C3321FB14
Desc.:
(2) Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/8watt 3.32Kohms 1% 50ppm
Mfr. #: RN55C1691FB14
Desc.:
(2) Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1/8watt 1.69Kohms 1% 50ppm
Mfr. #: C420C153F2G5TA
Desc.:
Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded 200V 0.015uF C0G 1%
That will straighten out that frequency response.
Paul
Understood, no problem. Even I happened to mix up things a bit like Marcel, sorry. 89.7 should be received either way as it belongs to both bands.newvirus2008, the Japanese version gets 89.7 - just under the 90.0 MHz upper limit.
How many components of the 15 (that're different) belong to the front-end ? Could you attach the service manual ?
Meanwhile, you do not seem to be alone. Someone here has tried to open the front-end (with pictures)
https://elektrotanya.com/content/i-tried-change-accuphase-t-1000
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Well , I will be.watching. If you " touch it" its yours forever and $1200 buys a lot of tuner nowadays so it's not a cheap experiment. I saw someone selling one with some sort outboard frequency converter from Japanese to North American band .An American version has come up for sale, but to limono's point it was 2.5 times the money. I'd like one of the subject matter experts on this outstanding forum to convert a T-1000 back and forth, documenting each step.
Since it is highly unlikely that any expert would re-design the entire front-end for you for free on a forum, I'd suggest that you start with some careful and calculated "adventure" in good faith. Since you have the schematic, you could start with harmless things like probing the local oscillator and other signals to see what the special button combination does / does not do.
You've been talking about 15 components right from the beginning but why wouldn't you simply attach the service manual here, so that you (or anyone else with the same issue) would get better answers to your questions ?
You've been talking about 15 components right from the beginning but why wouldn't you simply attach the service manual here, so that you (or anyone else with the same issue) would get better answers to your questions ?
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Getting a service manual from Accuphase is more difficult than drawing a blood from the stone 🙂 I have it too thanks to a generosity of one of the members. I don't think posting it here is a good idea unless the person who originally provided the manual will post it here.
Do I sense a member who plans to create a 'business opportunity'. Modifying Japan-bought and specc'd Accuphase tuners, for a fee. Use DIY audio brains-trust to flush out the means, then monetise the procedure.
I'd say: Share the Service Manual or figure-it-out for yourself.
I'd say: Share the Service Manual or figure-it-out for yourself.
Isn't it what happens to most of such endeavors here? There was lot of money made on 47 Labs products until it hit the dust and everybody moved on to the next feeding frenzy.
The first rule of service manual is: Don't say "service manual."
BTW, could you private-message me your email address?
BTW, could you private-message me your email address?
Yes, maybe it's best to let it remain as it is.Yes, bricking a T-1000 would be a fatal embarrassment.
And just look at it. Like myself.
I prefer Goldmund Mimesis 4 based on old cheap Dynalab RF board . The display is dying though ,like in old Naim NAT01 tuners.
I prefer Goldmund Mimesis 4 based on old cheap Dynalab RF board . The display is dying though ,like in old Naim NAT01 tuners.
MarcelvdG, that circuit is now in a pair of RCA plugs from the T-1000 and the frequency balance is now the same as a North American tuner.
But, almost on que, one of the downstream components is making harmonic distortion. I suspect the NuTube! I'll troubleshoot it next week.
Thanks,
Paul
But, almost on que, one of the downstream components is making harmonic distortion. I suspect the NuTube! I'll troubleshoot it next week.
Thanks,
Paul
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