I’m not throwing anything away as I spent $2000 on the Alternator,regulator,solenoid,battery,and wire .
Im not being rude to anyone on here and sorry if it seems that way but this post got way off topic . At the beginning of the post the only question I had was what size wire should I use to make the connections . The only info and help I have gotten off this thread is from Perry suggesting I should use a diode since when the 12volt is cut from the circuit I can get voltage spikes . I appreciate the info .
But like I said not trying to be rude to anyone but why would I toss everything I have bought and go a different route when this isn’t the first time this setup has been used . This setup with the charging system has been used in several different vehicles and works perfectly fine as I’ve heard from people using this setup . All I wanted to know was what size wire I should use is all
Im not being rude to anyone on here and sorry if it seems that way but this post got way off topic . At the beginning of the post the only question I had was what size wire should I use to make the connections . The only info and help I have gotten off this thread is from Perry suggesting I should use a diode since when the 12volt is cut from the circuit I can get voltage spikes . I appreciate the info .
But like I said not trying to be rude to anyone but why would I toss everything I have bought and go a different route when this isn’t the first time this setup has been used . This setup with the charging system has been used in several different vehicles and works perfectly fine as I’ve heard from people using this setup . All I wanted to know was what size wire I should use is all
I was the first man to understand and tell you what to do.
You have a big amount invested,go ahead and enjoy the music.
Do take the time to do regular battery checks, or put a voltmeter in the dashboard area, special batteries can be expensive, just to keep an eye on things.
Also, think how much a 24V system would have cost.
You have a big amount invested,go ahead and enjoy the music.
Do take the time to do regular battery checks, or put a voltmeter in the dashboard area, special batteries can be expensive, just to keep an eye on things.
Also, think how much a 24V system would have cost.
Then . . Maybe . . Ask the people USING this system what gauge wire to use, because the answer (before we understood what you were doing!
) was within the first few posts, when a competent respondent gave you the typical resistance values of solenoid coils, both 'continuous duty' and 'momentary'!In any case, please note that no alternator(s) in the history of car(s) has needed to be disconnected from the battery when the key is turned off !! Dunno what the blokes that sold you this $2000-worth of goodies were thinking, but ever since the Very Last Generator rolled off the assembly line, there has been NO REASON to disconnect them at Engine-Off. The rectifiers within the alternator do a perfectly acceptable job of that!
Cheers
Then . . Maybe . . Ask the people USING this system what gauge wire to use, because the answer (before we understood what you were doing!
In any case, please note that no alternator(s) in the history of car(s) has needed to be disconnected from the battery when the key is turned off !! Dunno what the blokes that sold you this $2000-worth of goodies were thinking, but ever since the Very Last Generator rolled off the assembly line, there has been NO REASON to disconnect them at Engine-Off. The rectifiers within the alternator do a perfectly acceptable job of that!
Cheers
Ahh.. the plot thickens. And you think that ign switch signal to the external reg needs to be 16V?
Are you sure? The 16V comes, IIUC, from the max charging voltage than can appear.
I bet that using the 12V ign signal from the key will turn on the external regulator fine.
Unless you have documentation that clearly state that it MUST be 16V.
Anyway, in the case you really want to switch the 16V, that solenoid is totally over the top.
A simple relay common in car electronics will be fine, as the ign signal certainly is not amps!
Jan
This is why I asked about the type of terminal, in post 15. The switching can likely be done with a Bosch type relay and 16g wire.
They likely specify 16v because that's what the system produces. Many turn-on circuits use the control voltage to switch on an NPN transistors (emitter on ground) which, in-turn, turns on a PNP transistor which powers the circuit. If that's what they use in the regulator, 12v could control the regulator.
They likely specify 16v because that's what the system produces. Many turn-on circuits use the control voltage to switch on an NPN transistors (emitter on ground) which, in-turn, turns on a PNP transistor which powers the circuit. If that's what they use in the regulator, 12v could control the regulator.
You need a trigger/ sense signal, Milli amps...not a solenoid capable of 80 Amps.
Small relay, the kind used for horns and turn signal. is enough.
Mounting will be an issue for those, and this solenoid will never break.
But that solenoid is excessive, I think.
How many amps is that 16V alternator?
Small relay, the kind used for horns and turn signal. is enough.
Mounting will be an issue for those, and this solenoid will never break.
But that solenoid is excessive, I think.
How many amps is that 16V alternator?
Last edited: