Yes, that is about what I found when I weighd one at work (that was about 22g on our scales), but that should still be a decent price, especialy with the shorter lead times. Once the deadline for the order has passed (the 11th of march) I will get in touch with you to organise the final number needed and how you would like me to send the payment on.
Andrew
Andrew
Music to my ears.......
... cos I really was hoping to get the SK104s! 😀
Good news about the diodes, too - SinEra missed out on the UK Reichelt order.
When was the order deadline??? 11 April?
I'll just have to look on the WIKI!!
Cheers
Jon 🙂
... cos I really was hoping to get the SK104s! 😀
Good news about the diodes, too - SinEra missed out on the UK Reichelt order.
When was the order deadline??? 11 April?
I'll just have to look on the WIKI!!
Cheers
Jon 🙂
Been there - 11 Apr it is.
STS are the solderpin version of the sink. Do you just solder them to the board or is there a connection to earth? Unless you have a space issue, would it be easier to use the M3 threaded version (STSB)?
Just wondering..
Cheers
Jon
STS are the solderpin version of the sink. Do you just solder them to the board or is there a connection to earth? Unless you have a space issue, would it be easier to use the M3 threaded version (STSB)?
Just wondering..
Cheers
Jon
When I designed the board I had intended to use the solder pin versions of the SK104 from Fischer. On the data sheet from fischer, it stated a pin size of 2.3mm max, so I had the holes on the board drilled out to 2.5mm (this will be a little smaller once they have been plated through), which is the only reason I was unsure of the parts from digikey (these are aavid parts, exactly the same in the boddy, but with slightly larger PCB pins which may have not fit into the holes on the board).
Basicaly what you wil need to do for assembly, is to bolt your diode to the heatsink, insert both into the board (you won't need to insulate the diode from the heatsink as the pins have no electrical conection) and solder up the diode legs as well as the pins to hold the sink and diode in place.
As far as the version with the M3 nuts goes - the holes in the PCB would be too small for this as again, I hadn't intended the board to be used with them.
Basicaly what you wil need to do for assembly, is to bolt your diode to the heatsink, insert both into the board (you won't need to insulate the diode from the heatsink as the pins have no electrical conection) and solder up the diode legs as well as the pins to hold the sink and diode in place.
As far as the version with the M3 nuts goes - the holes in the PCB would be too small for this as again, I hadn't intended the board to be used with them.
Michi, it looks like the order for heatsinks has gone well past 250 now and I was just wondering if Fischer had any sort of order multiple I will need to order in, or if any number can be submited for the order. If you know anything about this now, it would be great to know, but if not don't worry too much about finding out just yet.
No, I can't find anything in their catalogue about order multiples, not even in the fine print 😉
But I can still ask anytime...
Anyway, there should be some more people on diyaudio who have use for these diodes and heatsinks, apart from us who ordered your pcb.
It might be a good idea to tell other members in other threads about this opportunity, the way Rodd Yamashita did with his Cardas group buy.
Or is that considered offensive?
But I can still ask anytime...
Anyway, there should be some more people on diyaudio who have use for these diodes and heatsinks, apart from us who ordered your pcb.
It might be a good idea to tell other members in other threads about this opportunity, the way Rodd Yamashita did with his Cardas group buy.
Or is that considered offensive?
Pins..........
......... now I understand!! 😀
Would you need to use a sil-pad to isolate the diode from the sink????
Sorry, daft question, but no-one has asked it yet. 🙄
Cheers
Jon 🙂
......... now I understand!! 😀
Would you need to use a sil-pad to isolate the diode from the sink????
Sorry, daft question, but no-one has asked it yet. 🙄
Cheers
Jon 🙂
No, you don't need to isolate the diode from the heatsink (although you can if you want) as the pins are not conected to anything in the circuit (however, you won't want any part of you casing to touch the diodes, or allow the heatsinks to come into cotact with each other as that may cause problems).
I have just put one together now using some parts I have in my little tin (and some heatsinks from work), using only a bit of thermal paste between the diode and heatsink. But everything seems to fit together ok (although actualy putting cables onto the two terminal lugs in the centre of the board is a little snugg once the heatsinks are on the board too).
Hopefully I will be bale to scrounge a cammer from someone tonight and post a few decent pictures up of the bare boards nad the whole thing once finished.
edit:
One more thing that I have noticed is that the heatsinks seem rather well attached with only th diode legs soldered, so you may not even have to solder the pin in for things to work (depending on how safe you like to be)
I have just put one together now using some parts I have in my little tin (and some heatsinks from work), using only a bit of thermal paste between the diode and heatsink. But everything seems to fit together ok (although actualy putting cables onto the two terminal lugs in the centre of the board is a little snugg once the heatsinks are on the board too).
Hopefully I will be bale to scrounge a cammer from someone tonight and post a few decent pictures up of the bare boards nad the whole thing once finished.
edit:
One more thing that I have noticed is that the heatsinks seem rather well attached with only th diode legs soldered, so you may not even have to solder the pin in for things to work (depending on how safe you like to be)
.
Some good news, as there are a fair number of kits being ordered now, it looks like I should be able to drop the price of the four diodes down to £5.40 instead of the £6.20 I had initialy put up on the WIKI page (there is also still a possibility that the price may even come down further still if we can get to the next price break at 500)
bigparsnip said:
I never realized how expensive components can be in Europe Andrew. 4 of those Diodes BYW99P-200 would be the equivalent of $4.60 UK for quantity 250, for 500 the price would be $4.25 UK.
Now if only there was away to ship overseas that was cost effective.
Regards
Anthony
Yep, you're quite luckey being right next door to america (in fact that is where I will be getting these ones form, just a shame I have to pay import duty, tax and shipping on them or they would probably be - if not cheeper - the same price you have there).
But, that's global capitalism for you - charge only what you know people will pay (and we dont' have enough choice over here to do much about it 🙁 ).
But, that's global capitalism for you - charge only what you know people will pay (and we dont' have enough choice over here to do much about it 🙁 ).
Coulomb said:
If I were you I would go for this product Andrew from Ixys, it is the cadillac of Fred's for much cheaper than the generic ST part. I have attached the PDF file as well. It is available from Digikey America for the equivalent of $0.80 UK ea. that's $3.20 UK for four and it is a 37 Amp device.
Digikey part number is DSEI30-06A-ND
Description DIODE FRED 600V 37A TO-247AD
If you go for 500 it gets even cheaper.
Regards
Anthony
To the point I send them out, and I have been trying to mark the customs forms as samples so people shouldn't have any extr when they turn up in thier own country (hopefuly yours should be there in less than a week now, it went out today). I did think about the ones that we found here in the UK for about £0.91 from a distributor, but they had aminimum order quantity of 600, and a lead time of 15 weeks! So in the end I decided this would be a better route, as people may get their parts some time this year.
Coulomb said:
Better yet they are available from Digikey in the UK........
At the same price!!!!
Anthony
Just got back from tea nad had a look at teh data sheet, and there is one huge problem, they are only two legged TO-247 devices.
Whilst I designed the board so that it could accept a standard two leged TO-220 device like the MUR860, the only TO-247 devices that will fit into it are the dual diode, three legged types like the BYW99W-200's, so in htis case these ones won't work in the circuit boards.
Edit: they also have a rather hige voltage drop of about 1.5V compared to the 0.8-0.9V for the ones I was going to go for, so they will heet up a lot more quickly at higher currents.
Whilst I designed the board so that it could accept a standard two leged TO-220 device like the MUR860, the only TO-247 devices that will fit into it are the dual diode, three legged types like the BYW99W-200's, so in htis case these ones won't work in the circuit boards.
Edit: they also have a rather hige voltage drop of about 1.5V compared to the 0.8-0.9V for the ones I was going to go for, so they will heet up a lot more quickly at higher currents.
bigparsnip said:
Oh dear, When I asked about the HFA FREDs from IRF you said they would work. They are two legged TO-247 devices as well and that is what I already have 50 of.
This is the device I have.
http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/hfa30pa60c.pdf
Anthony
Are you sure that is only a two legged device, on the front page of teh data sheet it clearly shows a package with three legs, and says it contains two diodes sharing a common terminal (again, three legs). So, if the devices you do have are the ones on the data sheet then they should indeed work with the board.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.