Compact 3-way monitor (horizontal orientation)

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#22
AlmaAtaKZ said:
together with a abt 12cm midrange and abt 5-6cm tweeter (typical tweeters with 10-13cm plate would not fit).
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If you're restricted to 20cm, I strongly suggest a coax driver for mid and high. The Sica 5" comes to mind. It's all in one: built-in waveguide, thus controlled high dispersion, two units in one and budget wise very attractive (be sure to log in on TLHP). But there are others of course.

As for the bass driver: A RSS210 or SB23 are quite OK for this. Since you're going active, correcting for small enclosures is a piece of cake.
 
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#23
Building the 'long list' for drivers:

For the 'smaller' group (under 20cm woofer, under 10cm tweeter)

Woofers:
  • Dayton Audio Epique 7in (mid priced) Datasheet
  • more options needed
Mids:
  • SB 12cm norex (cheapest) Datasheet
  • Scanspeak 12cm revelator (mid priced) Datasheet
  • Scanspeak illuminator (high priced) Datasheet
  • more options needed mid priced
Tweeters:
  • SB acoustics waveguided. (mid priced). Datasheet This one has large diameter, but can be trimmed
  • Scanspeak small illuminator (mid-high priced) Datasheet
  • Seas (high priced) Datasheet Large dia, can be trimmed
  • more options needed low to mid priced
For the 'larger' group (over 20cm woofer, 10cm tweeter):

Woofers:
  • Dayton Audio ultimax 8in (mid priced) Datasheet
  • Dayton Audio Reference HF range 8in (mid priced) Datasheet
  • Dayton Audio Referecne HO range 8in (mid priced) Datasheet
  • SB Acoustics 8in (mid priced) Datasheet
Mids:
as above

Tweeters:
  • SB Acoustics waveguide as above. No need to trim
  • Seas as above, no need to trim
  • more options needed
So I seem to have plenty of options on larger woofers, and short on small (sub)woofers, tweeters (large or small) and maybe low/mid priced midranges
 
#27
This mock-up would be 27x40cm overall (assuming 15mm walls)
all drivers SB Acoustics: 26mmWG tweeter, 12cm mid and 8in small VAS woofer.

If I use smaller tweeter and woofer, I can get to about 22x36cm, but I can find no small tweeters with waveguides.

1746009401748.png
 
#29
An active speaker in that placement is more challenging that it needs to be……power requirements, access to controls, remote turn on…another step in the process. Combine that with the environment and no stereo triangle to establish an image, my pragmatism tells me this is more of exercise of could I vs should I.

I’d install a 2.1 amp/dac inside one of the cabinets with an external IR receiver extender to keep the install clean. I’d use the boundary of the wall, ceiling and cabinet space to load bass and use a passive sub…….shallow and up firing….maybe a parallel pair of 8” 8ohm Peerless drivers. Then build and add a suitable small box 2 way with a 150mm class midwoofer in a sealed or aperioidic box…..you only need response to 100hz to meet a co located sub.
 
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#30
stv said:
As far as I see it's a rather big and deep WG resulting in steady increasing directivity with frequency.
Not sure if it was not more intended for bigger 2-way midwoofers.
But I am happy to be corrected!

See here: https://heissmann-acoustics.de/en/test-wg148r-noferro-900/
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You address a valid point. Alexander ‘himself’ advocates the combination with 5-7” midwoofers. The WG148 isn’t as deep as the Monacor WG300 though.
Another option is a homebrew or custom printed 4” Augerpro WG. These aren’t that big either, 8,7cm high if I’m right. All this although I still think of coax…
 
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#33
PS - I've given up trying to meet the DIYaudio formulas about center to center distances. They never seem to align well with the tweeters I'm using. You essentially have to end up using a micro-motor (low profile) tweeter to get agreement. Sue me. 😀
 
#34
mayhem13 said:
An active speaker in that placement is more challenging that it needs to be……power requirements, access to controls, remote turn on…another step in the process. Combine that with the environment and no stereo triangle to establish an image, my pragmatism tells me this is more of exercise of could I vs should I.

I’d install a 2.1 amp/dac inside one of the cabinets with an external IR receiver extender to keep the install clean. I’d use the boundary of the wall, ceiling and cabinet space to load bass and use a passive sub…….shallow and up firing….maybe a parallel pair of 8” 8ohm Peerless drivers. Then build and add a suitable small box 2 way with a 150mm class midwoofer in a sealed or aperioidic box…..you only need response to 100hz to meet a co located sub.
Click to expand...
This is a very sensible option. Considering I have existing small 2-ways serving the kitchen, adding a DIY sub could be very effective, both in cost and in the gain - gaining exactly the bass extension I am after. Say, a push-push compact sub (two opposing woofers) with e.g. Dayton 7in or SB 8in. It will place well on top of the cupboards. Hypex FA 251 or 501 if that power is required.

but: I already have power there (including power switch in convenient location), already have volume control under the cupboards too, no need to access other controls once set up and Hypex would have signal sensing power (and has IR remote capability).
 
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