samoloko said:It Is not encapsulated
All transformers I got from them were encapsulated.
As to amplimo, they used to be related, but I'm not sure if it's still the case.
I thought that these transformers are Impregnated
and the encaplsulated are like this http://toroidy.pl/Obrazki/kubek.JPG
and the encaplsulated are like this http://toroidy.pl/Obrazki/kubek.JPG
problem solved
I'm almost embarrassed to say that I have fixed the issue with my monoblocks. The speaker outs I was using are not isolated and they were mounted in a conductive plate. I removed them and hey presto...
Ran a 4ohm speaker at full blast from Ipod source for 1/2 an hour and the cpu heatsinks were warm but not hot. Gonna do proper casework now and will post photos in the gallery when finished. FE207E MLTLs are progressing too so am very pleased.
Thanks for all your help.
One more small question, if the amps prove way too loud, cna I reduce the gain by changing Rnfeedback? What would be a good value?
Cheers
Matt
I'm almost embarrassed to say that I have fixed the issue with my monoblocks. The speaker outs I was using are not isolated and they were mounted in a conductive plate. I removed them and hey presto...
Ran a 4ohm speaker at full blast from Ipod source for 1/2 an hour and the cpu heatsinks were warm but not hot. Gonna do proper casework now and will post photos in the gallery when finished. FE207E MLTLs are progressing too so am very pleased.
Thanks for all your help.
One more small question, if the amps prove way too loud, cna I reduce the gain by changing Rnfeedback? What would be a good value?
Cheers
Matt
Peter Daniel said:Are you sure you didn't mixed up resistors on amp PCBs?
The values should be according to schematic here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1508778&stamp=1210693738
Hi Peter! 😉
The thought just occurred to me that you could ship a pair of 22k and a pair of 680R with the kit. Then a mixup is less likely, because it visually appears to be a pair of matching dividers. That's kind of pretty.
On a second thought, when you look at a picture, it actually very hard to mix those resistors: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1508773&stamp=1210693455
Peter Daniel said:On a second thought, when you look at a picture, it actually very hard to mix those resistors: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1508773&stamp=1210693455
lol! Great photo. Yes, you're right, of course. Good ears too.
What would you all think about a Tap set like this?
Getting ready to construct my enclosure and I'll be tapping all of it. Want to blind tap most of it, so would I be able to do that with this set?
I know Peter uses a filed off tap to prevent drilling all the way through, and you have a three piece set for each hole right? Start, tap and finish or something like that?
These look like one tap per hole. Will these work ok?
Thanks,
mike
Getting ready to construct my enclosure and I'll be tapping all of it. Want to blind tap most of it, so would I be able to do that with this set?
I know Peter uses a filed off tap to prevent drilling all the way through, and you have a three piece set for each hole right? Start, tap and finish or something like that?
These look like one tap per hole. Will these work ok?
Thanks,
mike
Only one tap per hole and I always do it with a cordless drill: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=69413&highlight=#post69413
Blind tapped holes
There are taps readily available that are bottoming taps, if you need.
But if the thickness of the panels doesn't require that...
One thing I do on aluminum, is to countersink before tapping, about the depth of one or two threads.
There are taps readily available that are bottoming taps, if you need.
But if the thickness of the panels doesn't require that...
One thing I do on aluminum, is to countersink before tapping, about the depth of one or two threads.
useful if you do a lot of varied mechanical work.soma_hero said:What would you all think about a Tap set like this?
No metric and no BA sizes, but maybe you don't need that facility in US imported products.
If you use one or two sizes regularly then invest in a 3tap set for those sizes, first, intermediate and plug. Those three taps will cost more than the whole kit.
With brass and copper you will probably find the carbon last quite well.
With aluminium you must use an extreme pressure lubricant. Steel tapping, even with the right lub, will blunt quite quickly.
Current?
Hi Peter,
With the pcb's I ordered from you I intend to build a pair of mono amps with the 25VAC+25VAC/225VA mains transformers in separate chassis (umbilical cable to PSU/audio boards).
My question is..... will a 5A (250VAC) rating be o.k. for the multipole plugs/sockets I will need to connect the supply?
These... Multipole Connectors
Many thanks,
Steve
Hi Peter,
With the pcb's I ordered from you I intend to build a pair of mono amps with the 25VAC+25VAC/225VA mains transformers in separate chassis (umbilical cable to PSU/audio boards).
My question is..... will a 5A (250VAC) rating be o.k. for the multipole plugs/sockets I will need to connect the supply?
These... Multipole Connectors
Many thanks,
Steve
Those should work fine.
I'm using 4 pin Neutrik XLR connectors which are rated 4A for receptacle and 10A for cable connector.
I'm using 4 pin Neutrik XLR connectors which are rated 4A for receptacle and 10A for cable connector.
Hi, Peter-
My question is along the same line as Steve's- about power connectors.
I was admiring the chrome screw-on connector you used on some monoblocks (I'd hoped to attach a pic but apparently not allowed?), and was wondering if you could provide a part# and source.
The connectors Steve has referenced look good, but I'd like to avoid ordering from the UK if possible.
Thanks.
John
My question is along the same line as Steve's- about power connectors.
I was admiring the chrome screw-on connector you used on some monoblocks (I'd hoped to attach a pic but apparently not allowed?), and was wondering if you could provide a part# and source.
The connectors Steve has referenced look good, but I'd like to avoid ordering from the UK if possible.
Thanks.
John
Those 4 pin chrome connectors are for CB radio microphone and should be available from e-sonic.ca
They were mentioned on a parts list attached to this post: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=136547#post136547
They were mentioned on a parts list attached to this post: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=136547#post136547
Peter-
Thanks for the info.
I notice that Neutrik also makes AC power connectors (Powercon), which look good- though they'd have to be well-labelled if using for DC to avoid accidental mis-connection down the years.
Cheers
John
Thanks for the info.
I notice that Neutrik also makes AC power connectors (Powercon), which look good- though they'd have to be well-labelled if using for DC to avoid accidental mis-connection down the years.
Cheers
John
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