About 30W@ THD=1% into 8ohms.
I'm using Neotech KS-1034M. It is flat OFC cable, 4mm^2.
Best Regards,
Ales
I've made mods just on input and output, adding Wima caps. SMD soldering was easy including the chip. During the build I found that it would be good to make bigger pads for decoupling cap for AGND and bigger holes at output. I realized this when I already had the boards.
@Luka: I have some boards left if you're interested.
Regards,
Ales
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Hypex UcD 180 mono amps...
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Stefan
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Hypex UcD 180 mono amps...
Stefan
Sorry there is some restrictions on that server...
go for the links below... the browser will say no, but click the adress field to highlight the link and press "enter"
http://user.faktiskt.se/avr7000/hypex/ucd 180 monoblock/hypex180 001 (Large).jpg
http://user.faktiskt.se/avr7000/hypex/ucd 180 monoblock/hypex180 002 (Large).jpg
http://user.faktiskt.se/avr7000/hypex/ucd 180 monoblock/hypex180 003 (Large).jpg
http://user.faktiskt.se/avr7000/hypex/ucd 180 monoblock/hypex180 004 (Large).jpg
http://user.faktiskt.se/avr7000/hypex/ucd 180 monoblock/hypex180 005 (Large).jpg
http://user.faktiskt.se/avr7000/hypex/ucd 180 monoblock/hypex180 006 (Large).jpg
http://user.faktiskt.se/avr7000/hypex/ucd 180 monoblock/hypex180 008 (Large).jpg
Stefan
go for the links below... the browser will say no, but click the adress field to highlight the link and press "enter"
http://user.faktiskt.se/avr7000/hypex/ucd 180 monoblock/hypex180 001 (Large).jpg
http://user.faktiskt.se/avr7000/hypex/ucd 180 monoblock/hypex180 002 (Large).jpg
http://user.faktiskt.se/avr7000/hypex/ucd 180 monoblock/hypex180 003 (Large).jpg
http://user.faktiskt.se/avr7000/hypex/ucd 180 monoblock/hypex180 004 (Large).jpg
http://user.faktiskt.se/avr7000/hypex/ucd 180 monoblock/hypex180 005 (Large).jpg
http://user.faktiskt.se/avr7000/hypex/ucd 180 monoblock/hypex180 006 (Large).jpg
http://user.faktiskt.se/avr7000/hypex/ucd 180 monoblock/hypex180 008 (Large).jpg
Stefan
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I found ConnexElectronic during my search for a high-power, hi-quality audio SMPS solution available to the public in small quantities for some amps I was building as part of a larger ambitious R&D project. In the process, I made acquaintance with Cristi, which quickly grew into a transcontinental friendship. I have learned great respect for his hard work, skills with electronics and willingness to be forthright and earnest. I really like these power supplies. The Connex supplies are very robust designs that can easily be customized to suit nearly any audio power supply application - frankly for a bargain price. The soft-switching resonant LLC topology (among some of the others available) allows for very efficient, compact, noise-free amplifiers.
I built two multi-channel amplifiers, an 8 channel UcD400 and a 16 channel UcD180LP. Both use a SMPS2000R supply. The 8 channel is for a home theater system and the 16 channel is for a distributed audio system. These are prototype amplifiers. Higher power SMPS will be used in the future - as they become available. Coming soon are multi-channel UcD700 and UcD2k amps.
The Hypex UcD technology has also become a favorite of mine. Specifically, UcD technology is truly elegant in design and it has become the standard I judge amplifier performance by.
I'm thrilled with the performance of these amps. Quiet, clean, efficient, powerful and accurate. I implemented a bottom-to-top forced cooling method that works well for the application they are being used for. The aluminum cases were machined, drilled and etched by my home-built CNC. Each channel has a green/red bi-color LED channel mute/enable button that monitors channel power supply errors and a volume knob with a green/red bi-color LED built in for channel signal detection and clipping.
Additional pics can be found at:
http://www.photobucket.com/8xUcD400
http://www.photobucket.com/16xUcD180LP
I built two multi-channel amplifiers, an 8 channel UcD400 and a 16 channel UcD180LP. Both use a SMPS2000R supply. The 8 channel is for a home theater system and the 16 channel is for a distributed audio system. These are prototype amplifiers. Higher power SMPS will be used in the future - as they become available. Coming soon are multi-channel UcD700 and UcD2k amps.
The Hypex UcD technology has also become a favorite of mine. Specifically, UcD technology is truly elegant in design and it has become the standard I judge amplifier performance by.
I'm thrilled with the performance of these amps. Quiet, clean, efficient, powerful and accurate. I implemented a bottom-to-top forced cooling method that works well for the application they are being used for. The aluminum cases were machined, drilled and etched by my home-built CNC. Each channel has a green/red bi-color LED channel mute/enable button that monitors channel power supply errors and a volume knob with a green/red bi-color LED built in for channel signal detection and clipping.
Additional pics can be found at:
http://www.photobucket.com/8xUcD400
http://www.photobucket.com/16xUcD180LP
Tripath TK2024
Arjen Helder Tripath TA2024 - 18$ total price
It powers my Behringer Monitor 1C to improve sound quality on my LCD TV
Arjen Helder Tripath TA2024 - 18$ total price
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It powers my Behringer Monitor 1C to improve sound quality on my LCD TV
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Looks really life-dangerous! Put it into garbage! No need to include dangerous power supply with non-dangerous amp into one case!
Your power supply has 2 ends - one with 12V this is not dangerous to touch.
The other - if you are from Denmark - is 230V and life-dangerous if touched.
This is why your power supply you show in the first photo is totally closed.
You have taken this good PS out of its case and put the electroncs into some old D-Link ethernet switch case. This is more than crazy! You can put your finger through the holes of this case and might get killed by 230V AC. Or you use a fork or something other metallic stuff to get killed by accident.
As the PS is a switching PS the voltage inside is even much higer than 230V.
A noob may never ever open any switching power supply!
It might also happen that everything desintegrates and that the case opens if touched a little bit harder. Or that the voltage goes over to the amp and sets your whole equipment under power.
And what are those 2 white isolation-stripes which look like Maoam chewing gum?
Sorry, if you leave the PS untouched you can do with your amp what you want.
I use the same amp without any case.
What to do? Throw th PS into the bin and get a new one.
The other - if you are from Denmark - is 230V and life-dangerous if touched.
This is why your power supply you show in the first photo is totally closed.
You have taken this good PS out of its case and put the electroncs into some old D-Link ethernet switch case. This is more than crazy! You can put your finger through the holes of this case and might get killed by 230V AC. Or you use a fork or something other metallic stuff to get killed by accident.
As the PS is a switching PS the voltage inside is even much higer than 230V.
A noob may never ever open any switching power supply!
It might also happen that everything desintegrates and that the case opens if touched a little bit harder. Or that the voltage goes over to the amp and sets your whole equipment under power.
And what are those 2 white isolation-stripes which look like Maoam chewing gum?
Sorry, if you leave the PS untouched you can do with your amp what you want.
I use the same amp without any case.
What to do? Throw th PS into the bin and get a new one.
Thanks for the feedback - will consider a new case.
I can get the PS back to normal quite fast. It's just a matter of putting it back into it's own plastic housing. But why are a new platisc housing more dangerous than the original?
I have build a 2x400 watt kit with open frame SMPS PSU, and that PSU was right next to the amp module as well (all including cabinet was bought as a kit). Other class d amps also have open frame SMPS in the same housing as the amp module.
That's why I haven't had any second thoughts about taking the SMPS out of the original box and put it in a new one. I can't get my finger through the wholes (I have closed them afterwards), and the amp is mounted on the backside of a TV console, so it's not possible at all unless, you move the whole thing at unmount it.
The white stripe is just some rubber. The are some components on the back side, so I have to have some spacer between the PCB and the case. The rubber is just spacers.
There is no way the 230 Volt can go to the amp (unless you drop something very heavy on top of it, and it crashes).
I know about the high voltages in an SMPS, and therefore take care when powering it up during test. And you don't die from 230 Volt (unless you have a week hart), I have tried it when I was a young kid - I would't recommend it though, since to several times with 230 volt can get you muscles to malfunction permanently (feels like when you arms og legs are "sleeping"), but it will become permanet after several times with 230 volt.
I can get the PS back to normal quite fast. It's just a matter of putting it back into it's own plastic housing. But why are a new platisc housing more dangerous than the original?
I have build a 2x400 watt kit with open frame SMPS PSU, and that PSU was right next to the amp module as well (all including cabinet was bought as a kit). Other class d amps also have open frame SMPS in the same housing as the amp module.
That's why I haven't had any second thoughts about taking the SMPS out of the original box and put it in a new one. I can't get my finger through the wholes (I have closed them afterwards), and the amp is mounted on the backside of a TV console, so it's not possible at all unless, you move the whole thing at unmount it.
The white stripe is just some rubber. The are some components on the back side, so I have to have some spacer between the PCB and the case. The rubber is just spacers.
There is no way the 230 Volt can go to the amp (unless you drop something very heavy on top of it, and it crashes).
I know about the high voltages in an SMPS, and therefore take care when powering it up during test. And you don't die from 230 Volt (unless you have a week hart), I have tried it when I was a young kid - I would't recommend it though, since to several times with 230 volt can get you muscles to malfunction permanently (feels like when you arms og legs are "sleeping"), but it will become permanet after several times with 230 volt.