IRS2092 subwoofer amp
I think the amp was under $20 from China, and pretty much everything else was already lying around. The nice thing about this amp is that you just hook up a transformer and everything else is on board. Naturally I added a fuse and power switch etc.
The ideal transformer would be 45+45; this one is giving about 35+35, at more power than is necessary.
The gain is a bit low, unfortunately, so I'm using one side of my BA-3 to drive it. My system needs more gain because I'm doing equalization and a 2.1 subwoofer crossover with a Minidsp 2x4, which is limited to 0.9V output.
The size of the transformer is such that inrush destroyed the first (5A) power switch. I put in a 20A switch and a CL60 to reduce inrush and so far it all seems fine.
I also added a gain control so I can balance my subwoofer to my mains.
The whole thing took a couple of hours including building the (admittedly utilitarian) chassis.
tim
I think the amp was under $20 from China, and pretty much everything else was already lying around. The nice thing about this amp is that you just hook up a transformer and everything else is on board. Naturally I added a fuse and power switch etc.
The ideal transformer would be 45+45; this one is giving about 35+35, at more power than is necessary.
The gain is a bit low, unfortunately, so I'm using one side of my BA-3 to drive it. My system needs more gain because I'm doing equalization and a 2.1 subwoofer crossover with a Minidsp 2x4, which is limited to 0.9V output.
The size of the transformer is such that inrush destroyed the first (5A) power switch. I put in a 20A switch and a CL60 to reduce inrush and so far it all seems fine.
I also added a gain control so I can balance my subwoofer to my mains.
The whole thing took a couple of hours including building the (admittedly utilitarian) chassis.
tim
Attachments
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Yep. Wanted the CCA to output to the front, but couldn't get the isolated DC-DC converter to fit without shorting out the 5-ways.
It looks like the exposed terminal of your power switch would be live when in the OFF position.
Hi !
This is my second prototype using the irs2092 , waiting for bench test.
+-60VDC
irs2092
irfb4019
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7w2AClEnqs
Thanks , very helpful info ! I learned a lot from you !
This is my second prototype using the irs2092 , waiting for bench test.
+-60VDC
irs2092
irfb4019
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7w2AClEnqs
Thanks , very helpful info ! I learned a lot from you !
Attachments
You may cut of the contact and seal the leftover with epoxy. (Or using doubled shrink tube, as this is a "proper/valid" solution.) Additonally glue some isolating plasting sheet on the inner top cover.
My first build, blatantly "inspired" by chicks Chromecast Audio build. Particularly the shielded dc-dc converter, it's a great find. This thing sounds superb. The only thing I wish it had was an audio detector relay to turn on the amp when I start casting music... but I couldn't find a simple solution. How it's wired now the Chromecast stays powered up ready to receive, and I can switch the amp on/off as desired. Is there any harm to leaving the amp on 24/7?
Hi !
This is my second prototype using the irs2092 , waiting for bench test.
+-60VDC
irs2092
irfb4019
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7w2AClEnqs
Thanks , very helpful info ! I learned a lot from you !
nice .please post the link to the post on the project
Hey message to all master of audio diy 😉
i'm looking for the best diy amp chip\board to drive Raal 70-20xr amorphous core ribbon tweeter
and the best diy amp chip to drive scanspeak 12MU 4" cone midrange!!!
---
only the best.. (measurement and true blind testing)
i'm looking at TPA, IRS,TDA, STE, Anaview ams (50w),ncore,pascal, SET Tube class A with zero negative feedback, class A transistor with zero negative feedback.. or Class AB biased in class A for 5-10watt..
i'm open to suggestions but only from those who truly tested most of those with complex music with lots of dynamics..
also.. i prefer those stable at 2ohm if possible but not a must for now.. (those at 2ohm would be to drive electrostatics panel) but not for RAAL and 12MU
i'm looking for the best diy amp chip\board to drive Raal 70-20xr amorphous core ribbon tweeter
and the best diy amp chip to drive scanspeak 12MU 4" cone midrange!!!
---
only the best.. (measurement and true blind testing)
i'm looking at TPA, IRS,TDA, STE, Anaview ams (50w),ncore,pascal, SET Tube class A with zero negative feedback, class A transistor with zero negative feedback.. or Class AB biased in class A for 5-10watt..
i'm open to suggestions but only from those who truly tested most of those with complex music with lots of dynamics..
also.. i prefer those stable at 2ohm if possible but not a must for now.. (those at 2ohm would be to drive electrostatics panel) but not for RAAL and 12MU
Have been around here for a while, and used this to get valuable info, so thought it was fair to show my build here.
Occasionally myself or one of the kids likes to throw a party, and what is a party without some (loud) music. I used to carry around DJ-Kit, mixer and amps as separate components, but wanted something that was easy to use and includes everything in one case.
And so this is the end result, a set build on the L15-D pro kits from ljm. The used toroids were a great find at only 35 euro a piece for 575 Watt each, so should have more than enough power to run 6 amps . All build together in a case from 12 mm MDF, and spray painted metallic gray.
The speakers are build from a set of DynAudios rescued from my previous car, together with a Boston Rally Sub. I have to say really happy with the result, the amps sound great, and the complete kit can play music at insane levels 🙂
Occasionally myself or one of the kids likes to throw a party, and what is a party without some (loud) music. I used to carry around DJ-Kit, mixer and amps as separate components, but wanted something that was easy to use and includes everything in one case.
And so this is the end result, a set build on the L15-D pro kits from ljm. The used toroids were a great find at only 35 euro a piece for 575 Watt each, so should have more than enough power to run 6 amps . All build together in a case from 12 mm MDF, and spray painted metallic gray.
The speakers are build from a set of DynAudios rescued from my previous car, together with a Boston Rally Sub. I have to say really happy with the result, the amps sound great, and the complete kit can play music at insane levels 🙂
Attachments
A little sorry! For my ucd 400
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
