Choosing a bass speaker

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When people say 'slow bass' it is hard to infer the cause of the problem, I was trying, perhaps bluntly, to suggest a less risky way of proceeding without purchasing more drivers. Sometimes low output from 100-200 Hz is the cause of slow bass, this may require correction in the crossover or altering the placement of drivers. Looking at the pic of the system the big bass speaker is close-ish to the floor, this could produce low output around 200 Hz because of floor bounce (quick calc with Jeff Bagby’s Diffraction and Boundary Simulator.xls), but this depends on where the crossover frequencies are and what the acoustic slopes are. However all is guesswork without measurements. Even furniture position and having doorways open can strongly effect the perceived sound, especially bass.

regards

Laurence.
 
There are quite a lot of variables to consider, not only from a technical standpoint, but also in terms of how loud you need the system to go. If you are presently crossing over at 150Hz or so, you might try crossing over lower and see if the subjective 'speed' of the bass changes. The Jordan should go down to 50Hz or so in an appropriately sized sealed box, so you have quite a wide overlap between those and the B139s to experiment with. I really would try this first. The Jordan may limit the absolute loudness possible from the system if you cross it lower- although B139s are not exactly powerhouses either, so you may find you can cross the Jordan fairly low without compromising loudness. The Jordan will certainly sound different to the KEFs through the mid and upper bass. It's a pity you're way down in Plymouth, otherwise I'd run some measurements for you. It would be worth learning to use some basic computer software for speaker measurement and design. If you can get over the initial learning curve involved, design becomes much easier. Without measurements it really is difficult to know what is going on. Good luck!
 
It would be worth learning to use some basic computer software for speaker measurement and design. If you can get over the initial learning curve involved, design becomes much easier. Without measurements it really is difficult to know what is going on. Good luck!
I've tried to download Room Equalisation Wizard and can't manage it. I need help from a grandson, or similar. But he then doesn't understand the sonics.
I can make you a kitchen, or a stained glass window, or turn a clamp for my deck, or build an amp, or......
But computers? Uh uh.
 
I was just guessing going by the information presented. It is apparent however that you desire driver buying opinions. I fear, however, a new driver is unlikely to result in better sound without measurement and real design effort and will most likely represent poor value for money when compared to optimisation of your existing hi-quality system components.
 
I just wanted to know how to research a suitable driver for the existing box. I have no intention of spending money until I exhaust other options. Such as re-stuffing, going from isobaric to single driver, re-trying the Seas 25 F-EWX drivers I have, changing crossover point, rebuilding the MF cabs, and so on.
I have enough info to be going on with for now, so thanks to everyone who helped with that.
 
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