Choices for 2 way build using existing design

For the 15w8530 Troels Gravesen did a number of tweeter options. This was obviously in a book shelf but so long as the volume stays the same and the front baffle width is the same then then the shape can be made what ever you like i.e. reduce depth and increase height. Remember that floor standers can have a false base half way up the height creating a dead space below so you don't have to use the whole height of the floorstander to get the desired volume.

Ellam-FLEX

Ellam-XT

or using two 15w's in a d'Appolito.

Ellam d'
 
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When I do "towers", I put the tweeter at about 1 meter. For the US; a box 4 feet high is easy since MDF comes as a standard width (or length if using shelving board) of 4 feet. A D'Appolito (WTW) with twin 5 inch closed would be a good option. The bass won't go as low as a single 5 inch vented but the power handling would be much greater and so would the max SPL. You could always add a smaller subwoofer and maybe hide it behind a TV stand if floor space is limited. Revs. are a great choice; pricey but worth it if you have the budget. As for the SB's, many people like the CAC and NAC; I prefer the Satoris. I have the Satori and CAC 6 inch; the CAC does great bass but the Satori I feel has a much better upper bass and mids. Just my personal choices, opinions and ideas throwing them out here. Middle of the wee hours for me but my arthritis in the lower back has flared up so here I am; wide awake...FWIW...
 
Just for context I've removed a subwoofer from the listening room already simply because we're now working from home and need home office space, so sadly reinstating it isn't an option. The boss prefers smaller floor standers to stand mounts, so I end up having them tilt a little to make up for the shorter height.

I need to get enough clean bass out of a small speaker but I'm not expecting miracles - so clean rather than loud and boomy.

The current ones are 180mm wide and 625mm tall - After chatting with the other half she wants to keep this diminutive size 🙄

A lot of the suggestions have wider baffles which means even if I choose an existing design there will be a difference in sound changing to a narrower cabinet - I'm not sure what part of the sound signature this change will affect or how much though.
 
I have never owned any myself but they can dig deep and go loud with the right amplifier; even the smaller ones according to all I have ever read.

Good choice; hope it all works out!

I have space limitations also; one is forced to get more creative when given these types of limits for sure.

Cheers!
 
Thanks, considering my age; at least arthritis is not all that bad compared to what others are going through. BUT; I have had to slow down my current project/build since I can't bend, lift or twist much at the moment. I need to finish a test box which requires all of those movements; more sawing, drilling, gluing, etc. It will just have to wait. The good news is my new driver is still several days away from delivery so I can start to feel better.

I am going from a Satori MW16 to a Wavecor WF223 BD as a mid-woofer (both closed box, both smaller than 1 ft^3 or 28 liters). In my case; I wanted more SPL in the bass. I have a SB29 that is great in the lower bass but lacks in the mid and upper bass. The Satori is one of my favorite drivers but it can't handle the power I now have so I'm hoping the Wavecor will do the job. It is larger and rated twice as high for power (depending on how one interprets the spec sheet/ratings anyway).

I have the anticipation anxiety going on now just "chomping at the bit" to get this test box finished...I like to say in the pursuit of perfection at every price point!
 
So to throw a cat among the pigeons I found John Krutes ZD5 standmount design It uses the Vifa XT25 tweeter but this can be substituted for the Scan Speak R2604

I like this as the design as it deliberately uses the same baffle width as my intended application - however a few criticisms for the complexity of the crossover and use of the XT25 - does anyone have an opinion on this vs the Carrera? Is the Hipuophon worth it?
 
Vifa XT25BG60-04 Vifa Ring Dome Tweeter - Double Magnet - 4 ohm

I have this exact model XT. It sounds amazing for the money but some say the dispersion window is more narrow. My personal opinion is to go with a higher end tweeter; Hiquophon get great reviews but I have never heard one myself. Have you considered something like the new SB?

SB Acoustics SB26CDC-C000-4 Alum-Ceram Dome Tweeter

I have this at the top of my wishlist the next time someone asks me for a new design. Great reviews, reasonable price. It is said to have much more control than a standard metal dome tweeter in this same price range.

Just throwing more thoughts out there...FWIW...
 
Appreciate the input! I have listened to a few and used a few including the lowly Seas 19TFF1 which does a decent job in the appropriate application. Recently I've used the Hivi RT1.3we planar ribbon which sounds very detailed, really lovely but I sort of gravitate back to domes.

I appreciate it's often in the application rather than the individual driver but I'm tempted by the Hiquphon as its reputation is very good. That SB looks pretty cool though.
 
I just put SB17NBAC35-4 in 15 litres sealed.... I would go for a 6.5 sealed.

Aluminum 3-way idea for near-wall placement in a small room.

Tall cabinet 8.5" wide x 11" deep x 43" high about 1.8cuft - 50liters empty. (-F3~31Hz - 20kHz)

SB26ADC-4 1" aluminum dome tweeter
SB17NBAC35-4 sealed in 9.5liters with Qtc=0.7, -F3~70Hz
Bottom Side Woofer: SB23NBACS45-4 ported in 42liters with Qtc=0.7, -F3 ~31Hz
 
10L two way

So decided on the Hiquophon and Revelator combination. I've modelled up the enclosure. 10 litres in total - probably tuned to about 45Hz to give a nice bit of extension. The idea is to try and devise a system without clamping so I'm intending on using Lamello Cabineo internal fixings and glue. These will pull the panels together securely and make the structure rigid while the glue cures.

Cabinet is 12mm Valchromat and the baffle will be 16mm birch ply. I've opted for the thin wall approach rather than brute force, no internal bracing though I may revisit that. I will probably use automotive bitumen pads on the rear internal surface to a thickness of 4mm and the egg crate foam. Not sure if it also needs acoustic wadding?

Porting fitted in the side on opposite sides as the cabinet depth is shallow. I'm tilting it back 6 degrees to fire up to ear height as the baffle height is short but will fit adjustable screws to alter the tilt if necessary. Added some drawings and one for scale 🙂

Wish me luck!
 

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I can probably increase the depth of the cabinets to increase the volume but I'm not sure with placement and room gain it is worth the change.

Quick question about port tuning before I commit to the final volume I have two modelled at both 10 litres and a maximum 15 litres. They are both tuned to 45Hz for comparison. The 15L extends but a small 1db rise at around 55Hz. As the speakers are positioned a little closer to the back wall than most designs recommend I wondered if I should go for a flatter tuning or that 1dB hump is inaudible?
 

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That's good to know thak you. So reading on Paul Carmody write up of the ScanSpeak:
The filter of L3+C4+R4 is used to tame the characteristic peak Scan Speak paper woofers tend to have around 800-900 Hz. In my opinion, this filter makes a worthwhile difference; because having a bump in that range, however slight, can make a speaker sound boxy and cheap, and that's the last thing we want on a $200+ woofer!

I'm wondering if this is completely necessary and if anyone here had experience with using the revelator without this flattening filter?

I know that Carl Richard in his Intimates design didn't feel the need...