Choice of a bookshelf project

Status
Not open for further replies.
Jump to Latest
G

greypey

Member
Joined 2013
#1
Dear sirs,
I'm willing to build a pair of bookshelf speakers, i've read you a lot but never posted anything, it seems that the fostex project arent really good, i've seen some interesting projects on planet10 but the drivers seems discontinued.
Can you suggest me some bookshelf project with a reasonable cost? Let's say around 200 euros.
Woodworking is not an issue so even if they are complicated it's not a problem, i only need a bookshelf size and something like 15w of power handling because my father will use them to play the saxophone and play bases. The room is pretty small and has some annoying resonances in the very low frequencies, for this reason i sold a pair of diamond 8.4 and i'm looking for something smaller.
Thank you very much.
 
#2
I don't think you can go wrong if you go with one of the MarkAudio projects. I have a pair of the CHP-70's in a Planet 10 designed cabinet and they are really something special. The MarkAudio speakers were designed with full-range, no-filter application in mind. Plenty of great builds.
Mike
 
#8
thanks for all the answers, very kind.
i just bought a pair of chr70, i decided to buy it just for cutting out the indecision, i went a bit lower on budget being this my first speaker build, there's always time to go up, let's see what comes out.
i saw the slim classic gr dchr-ken70 plans on frugalphile, are you talking about this? there's a bit of work in it but it's not a problem, my question is if does this really sound better than the "stupid" reflex box in the mark audio site.
i also have some doubts about the plans, i dont know how to properly say this english isnt my first languange and i apologize for all the errors, but it ssems to me there's a little imperfection in the plan.
in the front view the front panel is covering the top one, in the side view it is under it, i dont know if it's me that i cant read it properly or what but anyway, the correct dimension are only a couple of sums ahead.
what do you think? am i good with this one?
about spl: the chr70 are around 85db, with let's say 15w of power can i achieve a reasonable amount of spl in a small room?
thanks a lot
 
#9
That would leave less than €60 for the rest of the project. Pretty tight I'd say. Maybe you forgot to consider European prices?
But of course if you'd put an additional say, €50 on top that would be a very good driver. Perhaps the best considering the requirements.
 
Last edited:
#13
greypey said:
i saw the slim classic gr dchr-ken70 plans on frugalphile, are you talking about this? there's a bit of work in it but it's not a problem, my question is if does this really sound better than the "stupid" reflex box in the mark audio site.
Click to expand...

I believe so. The high aspect ratio vent effectively adds an R to the vent equation, which in practise keeps the box in tune over a wider range of the dynamic changes in driver parameters allowing for a more finesses bottom end.

These emclosures are larger than the miniSize box -- but IIRC what Kyle did build.

but it ssems to me there's a little imperfection in the plan.
in the front view the front panel is covering the top one, in the side view it is under it,
Click to expand...

The plan is consistent. The larger panels are full height, but the skinnier panels are not (would be harder to do the vent otherwise). You of course can much with the joinery as you see fit.

dave
 
#14
greypey said:
what does "brace shape is only suggestive - prime purpose is to brace he driver" mean?

does that actually touch the driver or not? the drawing tells not.
Click to expand...

It takes some work to do, but ideally the brace should just touch the driver, enuff to brace it, but not enuff to put a load on the basket. If it is a little loose, wood or veneer slivers or even paper are better than something squishy like blue-tac.

dave
 
#15
Hi,

Blue-tac, just like soft domes is not as soft and squishy
dynamically as it might first appear, and it does a great job
of coupling a driver to a brace without stressing the driver.

I think the other options are simply far worse, and its best,
unless you want to put some tension into the driver chassis
and the cabinet. Good luck with that, you need to be very careful,
and some form of gasket, like stiff card, is probably a good idea.
You'd need to be very accurate to match tensions in two boxes.

rgds, sreten.
 
Last edited:
#17
sreten said:
Hi,
Pattern of the holes in the brace is just a suggestion,
it can be done differently, to your convenience.
Click to expand...
thanks, now it's clear


planet10 said:
I believe so. The high aspect ratio vent effectively adds an R to the vent equation, which in practise keeps the box in tune over a wider range of the dynamic changes in driver parameters allowing for a more finesses bottom end.
Click to expand...
great, i'll go with that then.


planet10 said:
The plan is consistent. The larger panels are full height, but the skinnier panels are not (would be harder to do the vent otherwise). You of course can much with the joinery as you see fit.
Click to expand...
really thanks for bothering with me, but i cant understand the plan.
i made two version with the corrections i'm talking about, assuming i'm right wich isnt true probably, they are attached here.
the first one, if i understtod correctly what you said, should be the one you are talking about, with the simpler front panel.
the second one is more difficult to do but is more aestetically pleasing, especially using plywood.
idk if it's right but i'm pretty confident, changes are circeld in yellow.
here is the original one:
http://www.frugal-phile.com/boxlib/P10free/CGR-dCHR-Ken-261111.pdf
(page2)

thank you, and sorry if i'm annoying
 

Attachments

  • Immagine1.png
    Immagine1.png
    96.4 KB · Views: 230
  • Immagine2.png
    Immagine2.png
    115.6 KB · Views: 223
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom