woow..another professional looking amp..gefeliciteerd Beftus!
nice amplimo (this one only available in holland ?) +caps & yes, wood face plates will bring smile to your wife
groetjes
TPS
nice amplimo (this one only available in holland ?) +caps & yes, wood face plates will bring smile to your wife
groetjes
TPS
Thanks for the praise! Don't know about the Amplimo, I found it here: http://www.deaudiofabriek.nl/
It was chosen because I knew it would physically fit the box and hopefully leave some room for the PSU board too... I would have preferred the 120VA version but wasn't sure if that would leave me with enough space to mount the PSU board in the orientation as it is now. One of the problems you encounter when you're buying over the internet.
Groetjes terug!
It was chosen because I knew it would physically fit the box and hopefully leave some room for the PSU board too... I would have preferred the 120VA version but wasn't sure if that would leave me with enough space to mount the PSU board in the orientation as it is now. One of the problems you encounter when you're buying over the internet.
Groetjes terug!
Beftus said:Here's my first ever chip amp using the PCBs from BrianGT (chipamp.com). I finished both monoblocks yesterday. They sound great, a wide and detailed soundstage. Much to the dismay of my wife I can hear the difference to my Cambridge Audio 540A amp..
Amp looks great! I am glad you are enjoying them!
--
Brian
Thanks Brian! They do sound great, much greater than their combined physical size.
I couldn't have done it without your excellent LM3886 manual though...
I couldn't have done it without your excellent LM3886 manual though...

Congratulations, very nice and compact design.
Where are the amplifier and the chassis earth connections?
Where are the amplifier and the chassis earth connections?
juluska said:Where are the amplifier and the chassis earth connections?
Still gotta do those. I have discovered that the surface of the aluminium housing isn't very conductive at all. So I'm still thinking about how to make an amp->chassis and a chassis->ground connection that is conductive...
"To improve the WAF there's not gonna be a power LED. "
Put it on the bottom with small feet to lift the amp 5-6mm and it will glow only bright enough to see if you are LOOKING for it.
Beautiful implementation!! I love those cases. And the wood front would be nice also.
Is that Kimber Kable you are using for power jumper wires and signal inputs?
Put it on the bottom with small feet to lift the amp 5-6mm and it will glow only bright enough to see if you are LOOKING for it.
Beautiful implementation!! I love those cases. And the wood front would be nice also.
Is that Kimber Kable you are using for power jumper wires and signal inputs?
Thanks all for the kind words.
No, just some solid core copper cable I had lying around.
Enclosures (extruded aluminium) were bought from http://www.conrad.com/ They come in three sizes, mine are 165 x 110 x 105 mm, and cost me 20 euros each.
Is that Kimber Kable you are using for power jumper wires and signal inputs?
No, just some solid core copper cable I had lying around.
Enclosures (extruded aluminium) were bought from http://www.conrad.com/ They come in three sizes, mine are 165 x 110 x 105 mm, and cost me 20 euros each.
Beftus said:I have discovered that the surface of the aluminium housing isn't very conductive at all. So I'm still thinking about how to make an amp->chassis and a chassis->ground connection that is conductive...
Yes, the surface is not conductive, because it is anodized.
Solution 1 is to make threads, so that the grounding screws get contact to the aluminium in the thread. Yet sometimes the aluminium is too soft to make safe contact that way.
Solution 2 is to use contact washers. You can get them from Rittal distributors. They are slightly convex and have teeth on the contact side, so when you tighten the screw/nut, the teeth cut through the anodized layer into the aluminium. They are specially made for earthing and grounding.
pacificblue to Beftus: " ... Solution 2 is to use contact washers. You can get them from Rittal distributors. They are slightly convex and have teeth on the contact side ..."
Another very good washer type for this application are the "star" washers that have internal or external "spikes" or scratching "tangs" around the circle ... I'm sure you have all seen these on automotive mounting situations.
The idea of all of these "specialty" washers is to make sure that the sharp tangs and rough surfaces scratch the aluminum surface, scraping some of the anodized coating away and thus making good electrical contact with the underlying "raw" aluminum.
pacificblue: "... Solution 1 is to make threads, so that the grounding screws get contact to the aluminium in the thread. ..."
This is best, although if the threads are questionable, do both, "special" washers and threads.
Another very good washer type for this application are the "star" washers that have internal or external "spikes" or scratching "tangs" around the circle ... I'm sure you have all seen these on automotive mounting situations.
The idea of all of these "specialty" washers is to make sure that the sharp tangs and rough surfaces scratch the aluminum surface, scraping some of the anodized coating away and thus making good electrical contact with the underlying "raw" aluminum.
pacificblue: "... Solution 1 is to make threads, so that the grounding screws get contact to the aluminium in the thread. ..."
This is best, although if the threads are questionable, do both, "special" washers and threads.
raypalmer said:So you're just using the bottom of the case as a heatsink? Works okay?
The case is the heatsink, the heatsink is the case...
Works okay, at normal livingroom listening levels the case barely get warm at all. When playing loud it does get a bit warm to the touch. I think I'd need to play really uncomfortably loud to get it hot. For normal levels the case provides more than enough cooling.
BTW, I'm not the first to use these cases, here's my inspiration:
http://www.briangt.com/gallery/nigc-maarten
http://www.briangt.com/gallery/album03
pacificblue said:Yes, the surface is not conductive, because it is anodized.
That's what I thought, either that or it's the thin outer layer of oxidised aluminium.
Originally posted by pacificblue Solution 2 is to use contact washers
Just what I need. Thanks!
I like this design
I simply like this design.
I hope to save enough money to make my first gainclone too. 🙂
Very cool design!
I simply like this design.
I hope to save enough money to make my first gainclone too. 🙂
Very cool design!
Anyone know where I can get those ISEL anodized cases that will ship to North America. Conrad ships to every country on earth but Canada and the U.S. 🙁
I have been looking for that type of case ever since I saw Maarten's a couple of years ago. Anyone know where I can get something similar in the US?
I am also looking for some of those nice Conrad heat sinks.
Wayne
I am also looking for some of those nice Conrad heat sinks.
Wayne
Yes...I have looked into them (I have a few hammond cases). I am looking for similar dimension, which Hammond does not seem to carry.
If you know of one...please point it out. I will be the first to admit that I am not always as through when looking for things like that. Some of the sites can get quite confusing...so I usually tend to grab the closest dimension that I can find/that suits my needs.
Help is always appreciated in these matters.
Thanks,
Wayne
If you know of one...please point it out. I will be the first to admit that I am not always as through when looking for things like that. Some of the sites can get quite confusing...so I usually tend to grab the closest dimension that I can find/that suits my needs.
Help is always appreciated in these matters.
Thanks,
Wayne
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