Cheapy Passive Sub?

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Hi,

The Dayton driver will need a larger box than the drivers I mention.
around 20L sealed actually - it doesn't suit reflex loading well.

Its not going to be able to handle a lot of power - really depends
on if Xmax is specified as one way (6mm = 12mm bothway) or
bothway (6mm = 3mm oneway), the difference is 6dB of power
input.

The MCM unit is 8mm oneway, 16mm both, the TB's 12mm/24mm!

Quick analysis indicates reflex loading (or ABR) ~ 9L to 12L.

regarding #1 : 50$ on the amp and 20$ on the driver is skimping.
Given the time you'll spend making the box and finishing it
pushing the boat out a little bit on the driver makes sense.
Its the difference between an average and excellent sub.

Note that max volume in the low bass = cone area x excursion,
max volume in the upper bass = sensitivity x amplifier power.

For your purposes you need a low sensitivity driver, this means
for the bass extension the sub will be small. Low sensitivity and
high excursion also means it can sink the sub amplifier power.

A higher sensitivity unit needs a larger box and less
amplifier power for the same performance as the above.

🙂/sreten.
 
Note that max volume in the low bass = cone area x excursion,
max volume in the upper bass = sensitivity x amplifier power.

Huh, crazy, never knew that 🙂

Ok, I ordered the 150w amp and 8" sub from MCM.

I am heading to Las Vegas for the weekend, when I get back I will figure out if I am afraid of passive subs, or just want to use a port. 🙂

Thanks man,
Silly.
 
Hi,

meaured (courtesy of Zaph) vs claimed parameters :

Fs=30.95 hz 26
Qms=12.2863 14
Qes=0.2365 0.22
Qts=0.2320 0.22
Vas=23.88 l 30.5
SPL=86.59 1w/1m 87
Re=3.4 3.4
Le=2.42 2.47
BL=13.15 13
Xmax=16mm P-P 16

Using measured parameters I get the following (good shape for room gain):

10L with 32Hz vent tuning looks ideal to me.

(P.S. don't worry about the 2dB down at 100Hz, only affects efficiency)

🙂/sreten.
 

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I'm back from Vegas, did you miss me? Made $150, should have ordered a better drive ;-)

Wow, 10L... that is a mere .35 cubic feet to us silly american's, which is like 8.5" cube (completely ignoring space for driver/port volumes). Crazy small! The wife is bound to approve 🙂

I didn't find this driver mentioned on Zaph's sight, got a link?

So, for a ported box, unless I screwed up in WinISD, it says I can use a 1 1/8" port, at ~6.5" long (ie, the whole tube w/ modification from parts express).

WinISD shows "rear port velocity" as peaking at 32 ft/s, which from what I can tell is "ok".

Anybody want to confirm that I am not still hung over from Vegas? 🙂
 
Hi,

if the complications of accurate port tuning and sizing in small boxes
seems to be too complicated then I suggest the passive radiator.

(winISDPro gives 40L as the Vas of the passive radiator)

Following are my quick sims of the response, which you
should independently verify. 9/10L looks good to me.

Would be best to get someone to verify in another simulator, e.g. Unibox.

🙂/sreten.
 

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Okay, so my problem was not looking at wattage I guess 🙂 Must have left it at default which was probably 1w.

So, clearly, this is going to be problematic. Given that larger diameter port also requires a longer one... I suspect the port isn't going to fit in my enclosure, which sounds problematic ;-)

I will have to play with it when I get home, since I don't have WinISD here... but seems like I may be *forced* to do passive radiator?
 
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