Re switch debate. Certainly in the UK, it is straightforward to get a mains socket or adaptor block with a switch. I use one of these on my DVD player, which otherwise only has standby. Naim audio gear has a power switch but it's round the back, so not meant for regular every day use. I never use 'em. The stuff sounds better if left on and power consumption when idle is minimal.
From an environmental point of view, it would be more beneficial to go round fitting low energy light bulbs than stressing electronic components by switching them on and off all the time (although if one is using class A mega-amplifiers, that might not apply).
IMO, even getting rid of the mains connector plug is a good idea and fitting a fixed cable, though this leaves less room for experimentation.
Colin
From an environmental point of view, it would be more beneficial to go round fitting low energy light bulbs than stressing electronic components by switching them on and off all the time (although if one is using class A mega-amplifiers, that might not apply).
IMO, even getting rid of the mains connector plug is a good idea and fitting a fixed cable, though this leaves less room for experimentation.
Colin
Re: If you require a switch...
Troy, I like that one. How can I contact Apex?
-Erik.
rabstg said:Hi All-
If a switch is desired, then this one "should" fit in the same cut out. But you will need the add the fuse in the X-former location.
Steve @ Apex has them.
Troy
Troy, I like that one. How can I contact Apex?
-Erik.
Thanks!
You're right. Pretty cool stuff. I like the idea of building my own subwoofers, too!
Cheers,
-ERik
You're right. Pretty cool stuff. I like the idea of building my own subwoofers, too!
Cheers,
-ERik
I received my two chassis kits in the mail today, and they look great!
I will try to take some pictures tonight, if I can find time.
--
Brian
I will try to take some pictures tonight, if I can find time.
--
Brian
Re: If you require a switch...
Be aware though that this switch is single pole and only switches the hot wire. If you're OK with that, it's a great deal, but it's safer to use a double pole switch to switch both the hot and neutral.
rabstg said:Hi All-
If a switch is desired, then this one "should" fit in the same cut out. But you will need the add the fuse in the X-former location.
Steve @ Apex has them.
Troy
Be aware though that this switch is single pole and only switches the hot wire. If you're OK with that, it's a great deal, but it's safer to use a double pole switch to switch both the hot and neutral.
Re: Re: If you require a switch...
What is wrong with only switching the hot wire? I have seen a lot of schematics that only use a single pole switch. Will this cause complications?
--
Brian
bzo said:
Be aware though that this switch is single pole and only switches the hot wire. If you're OK with that, it's a great deal, but it's safer to use a double pole switch to switch both the hot and neutral.
What is wrong with only switching the hot wire? I have seen a lot of schematics that only use a single pole switch. Will this cause complications?
--
Brian
Re: Re: Re: If you require a switch...
House wiring is sometimes incorrect? That's my guess as to why the concern.
BrianGT said:What is wrong with only switching the hot wire? I have seen a lot of schematics that only use a single pole switch.
House wiring is sometimes incorrect? That's my guess as to why the concern.
The chassis kit came out really nice. I have one chassis almost fully assembled. The sides are currently taped on, and I didn't mount the bottom pieces under the boards. Here are some pictures:
front of chassis
back of chassis
side of chassis with wood taken off
top removed
overhead view from front
parts from chassis 2, waiting to be assembled
Assembly is quite self-explanatory, but I will work with Peter to make a step-by-step gallery of the chassis assembly process. The only part of the chassis that you need to DIY is the holes in the wooden panels to mount to the chassis, and the holes in the brackets to mount under the boards.
Peter did a great packing job, and the chassis was shipped on the 10th from Canada, and I received it on the 16th.
The pictures don't even come close to doing the amplifier justice, as it looks very nice. The brushing is perfect, and there are no visible scratchs on the external surfaces.
--
Brian
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
front of chassis
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
back of chassis
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
side of chassis with wood taken off
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
top removed
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
overhead view from front
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
parts from chassis 2, waiting to be assembled
Assembly is quite self-explanatory, but I will work with Peter to make a step-by-step gallery of the chassis assembly process. The only part of the chassis that you need to DIY is the holes in the wooden panels to mount to the chassis, and the holes in the brackets to mount under the boards.
Peter did a great packing job, and the chassis was shipped on the 10th from Canada, and I received it on the 16th.
The pictures don't even come close to doing the amplifier justice, as it looks very nice. The brushing is perfect, and there are no visible scratchs on the external surfaces.
--
Brian
Re: Re: Re: If you require a switch...
It is good practise to use a double pole switch in all mains applications, as it ensures the item is safe, even if phase and neutral are reversed, (quite common in domestic wiring or in countries where plugs are reversable).
BrianGT said:What is wrong with only switching the hot wire? I have seen a lot of schematics that only use a single pole switch?
It is good practise to use a double pole switch in all mains applications, as it ensures the item is safe, even if phase and neutral are reversed, (quite common in domestic wiring or in countries where plugs are reversable).
Re: Re: Re: Re: If you require a switch...
If this is the case, wouldn't it also be a good practice to fuse both primary ac wires as well?
--
Brian
pinkmouse said:
It is good practise to use a double pole switch in all mains applications, as it ensures the item is safe, even if phase and neutral are reversed, (quite common in domestic wiring or in countries where plugs are reversable).
If this is the case, wouldn't it also be a good practice to fuse both primary ac wires as well?
--
Brian
NUTZ!
AWWWWWWW CRAP!
You mean to tell me that the cool little AC inlet with the switch is now obsolete????
Mannnnnnn...
I just want you guys to know that I'm a little OCD, and now that I know the concerns raised about a single pole mains switch, I can never use one. That's just great...
...It was gonna fit perfectly in that cutout too.
*Grumble, sputter*
-Erik.
AWWWWWWW CRAP!
You mean to tell me that the cool little AC inlet with the switch is now obsolete????
Mannnnnnn...
I just want you guys to know that I'm a little OCD, and now that I know the concerns raised about a single pole mains switch, I can never use one. That's just great...
...It was gonna fit perfectly in that cutout too.
*Grumble, sputter*
-Erik.

I wouldn't discard the idea of "cool little AC inlet" switch yet. There are always people who are paranoid about safety, and electrical power in general.
If you check the Aleph schematics, you will notice that they all use single fuse and one pole switch on mains, only😉
If you check the Aleph schematics, you will notice that they all use single fuse and one pole switch on mains, only😉
You don't have to be paranoid to think that safety comes first... if you know what's dangerous.Peter Daniel said:There are always people who are paranoid about safety, and electrical power in general.
If you live in 230 VAC country it's much more dangerous than 110 V. You should have great respect for safety issues. I have got 230 VAC through my heart. I know have that feels


Re: NUTZ!
hay if you dont mind paying shiping you can have one of these free. i have lots
😉
e.lectronick said:AWWWWWWW CRAP!
You mean to tell me that the cool little AC inlet with the switch is now obsolete????
Mannnnnnn...
I just want you guys to know that I'm a little OCD, and now that I know the concerns raised about a single pole mains switch, I can never use one. That's just great...
...It was gonna fit perfectly in that cutout too.
*Grumble, sputter*
-Erik.![]()
hay if you dont mind paying shiping you can have one of these free. i have lots
😉
Attachments
peranders said:
You don't have to be paranoid to think that safety comes first... if you know what's dangerous.
If you live in 230 VAC country it's much more dangerous than 110 V. You should have great respect for safety issues. I have got 230 VAC through my heart. I know have that feelsThis is nothing I want to try again.
![]()
It is not that much about safety, as it's about common sense.
An amplifier is a device built to be connected to the mains. If you feel that one pole switch is not good enough, don't use a switch at all, and remove the power cord from a socket (to be completely safe) when disconnecting the amp.
That's the approach that I have chosen in my chassis design.
Hi All-
I don't want to start any thing because some people have WAY too much free time on their hands
but.......
All of the light switches in my house are single pole, my table saw is single pole, my switch on the refrigerator for the internal light is single pole, my corded drills, jig saw and compound miter saw are single poled.
My 220 Volt AC electric stove has single pole switches for the burners. The power switch on my 220v dryer is single poled.
If installed correctly, single pole switches are COMPLETELY safe.
The ONLY time your fingers should be in the chassis with power present is when you’re troubleshooting. At which time you should be HIGHLY alert where you put your fingers any way!
Thanks,
Troy
I don't want to start any thing because some people have WAY too much free time on their hands

All of the light switches in my house are single pole, my table saw is single pole, my switch on the refrigerator for the internal light is single pole, my corded drills, jig saw and compound miter saw are single poled.
My 220 Volt AC electric stove has single pole switches for the burners. The power switch on my 220v dryer is single poled.
If installed correctly, single pole switches are COMPLETELY safe.
The ONLY time your fingers should be in the chassis with power present is when you’re troubleshooting. At which time you should be HIGHLY alert where you put your fingers any way!
Thanks,
Troy
Excellent Points
Troy,
Thanks, you've helped bring reality back to the discussion. All of these devices are potentially just as deadly as an amplifier, so if they're safe, then I'm ok with a single pole ac mains.
So, Apex Jr. will be hearing from me soon.
Just waiting for the next round of Specializedkits😎
-ERik
Troy,
Thanks, you've helped bring reality back to the discussion. All of these devices are potentially just as deadly as an amplifier, so if they're safe, then I'm ok with a single pole ac mains.
So, Apex Jr. will be hearing from me soon.
Just waiting for the next round of Specializedkits😎
-ERik
Shipping Status
Hi Peter, I would liked to know if you ship something to Providence, RI if yes can you tell me when?Is because Am very desperate and need to know what close is to my house. Thanks
Hi Peter, I would liked to know if you ship something to Providence, RI if yes can you tell me when?Is because Am very desperate and need to know what close is to my house. Thanks
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