He hasn't posted anything to call trollish. That term is very elitist and get's used by a lot of over-emotional posters with agendas with fixed ideas they like to promote and protect. Very AKish.
Were you able to correlate similar temperatures to electrical characteristics?
I suggest the uTracer3+. It is low cost and can do a lot. Further you can "hack" your 3+ to do even more if you want to.
Finally Ronald will sell you the 3+processor (but not the 6 processor) alone if you want to make your own version of a uTarcer3+.
Very DIY friendly.
I have both the uTracer3+ and uTracer6 version and have found the 6 still has some "teething issues" with a software bug in measuring in pentodes in triode mode that strongly affects accuracy.
The 6 also lacks some accuracy at lower plate voltages as it uses the same 10 bit resolution to measure a 1K volt range as the 3+ uses for a 400 volt range.
The 6 will measure a lot more plate current and voltage in bigger power tubes so it depends on your main focus.
Here's my own humble stab at a an analyzer using Arduino, which works similarly to the uTracer. Sadly it's not in kit form, sorry!
http://valvewizard.co.uk/analyser.html
http://valvewizard.co.uk/analyser.html
I'll see how things go. One thing I'd like to buy first is a decent LCR meter. Those are not cheap.
Once i have found a tube, or tube pair that is not shorted, tests 'good' on a remedial tube tester,
I take one of my SE or PP tube amplifiers that are using individual self bias, and I test the tube or the tube pair that way.
Of course, that is easy for me to say, since I limit the tube types that I am interested in, and I never operate tubes at their dissipation limit.
A 6L6GC amplifier at dissipation limits, could damage a 5881 or perhaps even a KT66.
I start with an amplifier that has 6L6GC, then use 5881, KT66, and compare power out, distortion, frequency response, damping, hum, etc.
I can not imagine anybody testing a new motor at 3000 RPM, and then not putting it in a car and carefully running it at 6000 RPM and assuming it is good.
My tube tester is Wimpy. My amplifiers at moderate tube voltage, current, and dissipation levels is my real test.
Sometimes I will test EL34, KT77, and even KT88 in the same amplifier. Works for me (I do not need the KT88 to be operated real hot, just the filament itself dissipates 10.08 Watts, I do not have enough space around my tube to run the screen at 8 Watts, or the plate at 46 Watts
(42 Watts Total plate + screen maximum).
I take one of my SE or PP tube amplifiers that are using individual self bias, and I test the tube or the tube pair that way.
Of course, that is easy for me to say, since I limit the tube types that I am interested in, and I never operate tubes at their dissipation limit.
A 6L6GC amplifier at dissipation limits, could damage a 5881 or perhaps even a KT66.
I start with an amplifier that has 6L6GC, then use 5881, KT66, and compare power out, distortion, frequency response, damping, hum, etc.
I can not imagine anybody testing a new motor at 3000 RPM, and then not putting it in a car and carefully running it at 6000 RPM and assuming it is good.
My tube tester is Wimpy. My amplifiers at moderate tube voltage, current, and dissipation levels is my real test.
Sometimes I will test EL34, KT77, and even KT88 in the same amplifier. Works for me (I do not need the KT88 to be operated real hot, just the filament itself dissipates 10.08 Watts, I do not have enough space around my tube to run the screen at 8 Watts, or the plate at 46 Watts
(42 Watts Total plate + screen maximum).
Even if you don't do your own designs.
It's easier than one would think from seeing the market for curve tracers these days. and doing it yourself gives more solid sense of how things work. I actually enjoy doing it. Not what I expected I'd get into when I started out with this diy electronics stuff, looking to get an awesome sound for cheap that I could claim genius status for . . . . . . and that in a few weeks . . . . . . and then do nothing but listen after that. Oh sure ! . . .
. . . Slippery slopes.
Another vote for building the uTracer 3+. You get everything you need in the kit, and you can be up and running with just the PCB and a tube socket. Instructions are exemplary, and circuit testing is performed at stages.
One of the beauties of the uTracer is that screen and anode supplies and measuring circuits are identical, so dual triodes can be curve traced and both sides matched with a single test.
I agree the high quality of the kit is "old school" good.
The assembly instructions are not some dubious download but a finely printed manual on quality paper with clear color pictures. Nice touch.
It is a pleasure to build and experience a construction process so well organized and presented. I was impressed and a bit humbled.
There is lots of debugging and verification tests built into the assembly process. Hard to make a mess of the build.
If you wish you are afforded the opportunity to learned how the uTracer was designed and how it works. Great learning experience.
Having had a uTracer3+ for about 4 years I can not now imagine this hobby without one.
Finally the asking price of the uTracer3+ kit is I believe below what it would cost to build from scratch yourself.
You do need a case, a power supply, a few sockets and connectors but I managed to scrounge most from my "junk" bins.