OK finally got my hands on a Torx T6 and was able to open the top panel... and it is not the mkI but mkII, meaning I have the 2xWM8740 version! 😱 😀 The DAC board is obviously bigger but I hope I can fit everything in the new enclosures.
So a thread from the dead
Just in time for Halloween I guess
Some errors in the previous too but for the greater good... Looking for players that specifically split all the electronics required to make the player work from all the electronics to make the player's sound. Ideally splitting up before the Digital filter and clock
in other words a cd player that you can easily graft an output on. See ebay for any number of boards that can be used to make mayhem
Version 1 of a list is attached - can we add to it? I've only been adding players where I'm 99% sure the criteria are met
I was going to add some criteria to this because who's buying a £1,000+ player or a piece of early audio history to muck about with it. Then I thought, this is DIYAudio, any "rules" mean nothing here 🙂 So I admit the list is probably missing some early TDA1540 players and some that are historical and or mega expensive but add them for completeness I guess?
Here's where I'm up to so far
Also, how do I attach an excel file?
Some data taken from that big CD/DAC list because a "list is a list", but checked via service manuals.
Andy
Just in time for Halloween I guess
Some errors in the previous too but for the greater good... Looking for players that specifically split all the electronics required to make the player work from all the electronics to make the player's sound. Ideally splitting up before the Digital filter and clock
in other words a cd player that you can easily graft an output on. See ebay for any number of boards that can be used to make mayhem
Version 1 of a list is attached - can we add to it? I've only been adding players where I'm 99% sure the criteria are met
I was going to add some criteria to this because who's buying a £1,000+ player or a piece of early audio history to muck about with it. Then I thought, this is DIYAudio, any "rules" mean nothing here 🙂 So I admit the list is probably missing some early TDA1540 players and some that are historical and or mega expensive but add them for completeness I guess?
Here's where I'm up to so far
Manufacturer | Model | DAC / Filter set | Mech | Notes |
Akai | CD-69 | 2 x PCM63P-J – CD0002AD / SM5813 | KSS-150A / KSS-210A | splits AFTER filter but same board as CD-79 |
Akai | CD-79 | 2 x PCM63P-K – SM5813AP | KSS-150A / KSS-210A | splits AFTER filter |
Cambridge Audio | azur640c | 1 x WM8740 | Sony KSS-213C | |
Cambridge Audio | azur640c v2 | 2 x WM8740 | Sanyo SF-P101N | |
NAKAMICHI | OMS-5 | 2 x TDA1540D – SAA7030 | HLPL 030020 (CA80255A) | |
NAKAMICHI | CDC-4A, | TDA1541A-S1 | Pioneer PWY1009 / PWY1010 | it’s a changer |
Onkyo | DX-706 Integra | 2 x SM5861AP – SM5813AP | NEC SPU3011 - Magnetic | |
Onkyo | DX-708 Integra | 2 x SM5861AP – SM5813AP | NEC SPU3011 - Magnetic | |
Revox | B 126 | TDA1541A – SAA7220P/B | CDM-1 / CDM-4/27 | |
Revox | B 225 | 2 x TDA1540 – SAA7030 | CDM-0 / CDM-1 | |
Revox | B 226 | TDA1541 – SAA7220P/A | CDM-1 | |
Revox | B 226 Mk II / Signature | TDA1541A – SAA7220P/B | CDM-1 | |
Revox | B 226-S / E | TDA1541A-S1 (Single Crown) | CDM-1/MKII / CDM-4/26 | |
Rotel | RCD-990 | 2 x PCM63P – PMD100 | CDM-9 Pro | Not RCD991 RCD771 or RCD951 though |
Rotel | RCC-955 | PCM69AP – PMD100 | KSS-213C | It’s a changer. Additional off board 5v for digital |
Rotel | RHCD-10 | 2 x PCM63P-K – SM5843AP / PMD100 | CDM-9 Pro | not verified |
Sony | CDP-X505ES | 1 x CXD2562Q – CXD2567M | KSS-272A | |
Sony | CDP-X707ES | 2 x CXD2562Q – CXD2567M | KSS-272A | |
Sony | CDP-X779ES | 2 x CXD2562Q – CXD2560M | KSS-272A | |
TEAC | CD-P400 | MN6474M | KSS-150A | not confirmed |
TEAC | CD-P4000 | MN6474M | KSS-150A / KSS-210A | Single Layer boards |
TEAC | CD-P4500 | SAA7350GP – SM5840AP | KSS-210A | Pitch bend |
TEAC | CD-5 | SAA7350GP – SM5840AP | KSS-210A | Single Layer boards |
TEAC | CD-Z500 | 2 x TDA1541A – PD0050 | KSS-150A | Single Layer boards |
TEAC | CD-Z5000 | 2 x TDA1541A – PD0050 | KSS-210A | Single Layer boards |
TEAC | VRDS-7 | 2 x SAA7350GP – SM5840AP | VRDS CMK-4 – KSS-240A | |
TEAC | VRDS-8 | 4 x PCM1702 – SM5843AP | VRDS CMK-4.5 – SF-P151 (16 pin) | |
TEAC | VRDS-9 | 4 x PCM1702 – SM5840AP | VRDS CMK-4.2 – KSS-213C | mini format |
TEAC | VRDS-10 | 2 x TDA1547 – SAA7350 – SM5840AP | VRDS CMK-3.2 – KSS-151A | |
TEAC | VRDS-10SE | 2 x TDA1547 + 2 x SAA7350 – SM5840AP | VRDS CMK-3.2 – KSS-151A | |
TEAC | VRDS-15 | 2 x NSdap FN1242A – SM5843AS1 | VRDS CMK-3.2 – KSS-151A | |
TEAC | VRDS-20 | 2 x TDA1547 – SAA7350AGP – SM5840AP | VRDS CMK-3.2 – KSS-151A | |
TEAC | VRDS-25 | 4 x AD1862N-J – SM5843AP – AD1893JN | VRDS CMK-3.2 – KSS-151A | |
TEAC | VRDS-25X | 4 x AD1862N-J – SM5843AP – AD1893JN | VRDS CMK-3.2 – KSS-151A | |
TEAC | VRDS-25XS | 4 x AD1862N-J – SM5843AP – AD1893JN | VRDS CMK-3.2 – KSS-151A | |
TEAC | VRDS-50 | NSdap FN1241 | VRDS CMK-3.2 – KSS-151A | MONEY |
Copland | CDA 266 | 2 x PCM63P – PMD100 | KSS-240A | |
Copland | CDA 277 | 2 x PCM63P – PMD100 | VRDS CMK-4 – KSS-240A | |
Copland | CDA 288 | 4 x PCM63P-K – PMD100 | VRDS CMK-4 – KSS-240A | |
Copland | CDA 289 | 4 x PCM63P – PMD100 | KSS-240A |
Also, how do I attach an excel file?
Some data taken from that big CD/DAC list because a "list is a list", but checked via service manuals.
Andy
Attachments
Put it in a zipped folder. 10Mb limit on size.Also, how do I attach an excel file?
Put it in a zipped folder. 10Mb limit on size.
Simple!
Attachments
Heh heh 😀It would be a crime to fit an eBay abomination to some of the units listed.
Indeed it would. Others not so much. I just wasn't keen on setting a boundary.
I do agree Carving up a CDA289 (for example) would be a sin. Similarly some of the early players are almost historically significant
Andy
That being said, some of the more visually appealing first generation players could benefit from some tech insertion.
Now I 100% agree there! Its sort of the inspiration, or what started the whole 2 board thing anyway.
But since you've got me started there is a bit of backstory here (cue music)
I have a Musical Fidelity FCD. IMHO one of, if not the most beautiful players ever made but, and it pains me to say, it's technically "faecal" (sorry) I think its a TEAC cd3500 or 3450 under the skin, with an 'x10' grafted on. Marketing! yay! However, even the implementation is best described as "I made this in my garage" Understand why, but still...
So, I started looking for CD players with similar mechanisms with this idea of replacing the TEAC bits with something a bit "more" Of course I never got there: a separate play / pause button, none of the Sony grid display and a reasonable board size is frankly, a challenge. The tiny number of FCD's I've ever seen have that historian in me screaming "preserve it so future generations can see what you can get away with if you're pretty"
Won't matter of course - they're all listening to spotify or whatever kids do these days 🙂
On the journey I've come to think there's some merit in avoiding external DACs if it's all in the one box. Why External DAC if you can Internal DAC - I cant imagine that conversion to SPDIF and back again is the ideal
Anyway different thread. This one is fishing for info on CD players with the split as described. Of the 1000's of people on here who actually understand what they are looking at there's got to be a list waiting to happen
Andy
But since you've got me started there is a bit of backstory here (cue music)
I have a Musical Fidelity FCD. IMHO one of, if not the most beautiful players ever made but, and it pains me to say, it's technically "faecal" (sorry) I think its a TEAC cd3500 or 3450 under the skin, with an 'x10' grafted on. Marketing! yay! However, even the implementation is best described as "I made this in my garage" Understand why, but still...
So, I started looking for CD players with similar mechanisms with this idea of replacing the TEAC bits with something a bit "more" Of course I never got there: a separate play / pause button, none of the Sony grid display and a reasonable board size is frankly, a challenge. The tiny number of FCD's I've ever seen have that historian in me screaming "preserve it so future generations can see what you can get away with if you're pretty"
Won't matter of course - they're all listening to spotify or whatever kids do these days 🙂
On the journey I've come to think there's some merit in avoiding external DACs if it's all in the one box. Why External DAC if you can Internal DAC - I cant imagine that conversion to SPDIF and back again is the ideal
Anyway different thread. This one is fishing for info on CD players with the split as described. Of the 1000's of people on here who actually understand what they are looking at there's got to be a list waiting to happen
Andy
I'm not sure to be honestDoes a CD transport fit into your bill?
They tend seem to be to be focussed on digital out? Looking at the VRDS T1 as an example. I don't know enough to interrogate the SPDIF part of the circuit! I'm looking for lines marked Data. LRCK and BCK or similar
I might be off the mark though My understanding is not necessarily the truth 😀
Andy
@andrew_whitham on my cheap old sony I connected a shielded line cable from digital out of laser to right RCA output. I like the sony for its oldfassion direct numerical track selection and it now it plays thruu a wonderful dac and even reads all 18 bits on HDcds.
i imagine you can buy a state of the art dac for 20-30 dollars and hide it in a corner of your FCD.
Cheers!
i imagine you can buy a state of the art dac for 20-30 dollars and hide it in a corner of your FCD.
Cheers!
probably goes without saying that it's best to stick to machines where the complete (i.e. includes legible schematics and test waveform images, etc.) service manuals are available, too!
Teac CD-P4500 acquired seems to be a CD-5 with sensible case (and a daft pitch control) which is nice 🙂
The board numbers almost tally Audio board is 9155110201 vs the CD-5's 9155101202, Servo board is the same
Andy
The board numbers almost tally Audio board is 9155110201 vs the CD-5's 9155101202, Servo board is the same
Andy
It's sadly without numerical buttons so you can't directly chose track before you find your remote if that even have them. They sadly started to this feature in the late 80ies. -Backwards evolution.
Cheers!
Cheers!
A BITIt is a bit bland.
View attachment 1231078
There is nothing to commend it visually whatsoever - like 1001 other players of that vintage. It's fun that it seems to be a 'Blanded' CD5 though and at £40 rather than £400 I'll take it. The CD5 has an "aesthetic" 😎
I am not a fan of Bitstream, or at least I never found one I really liked. That's the point of this thread you could remove the whole D/A board and still it works!
Andy
This might sound a bit silly, but I'd chose a CD (or DVD, or Blueray) player based on the action of the CD draw, if it looks cool and if it's from a manufacturer known for making stuff that lasts for decades. I almost always play a CD all the way through, so programing tracks isn't an issue. A Blueray modded to a linear power supply with SPDIF out would do me.
This might sound a bit silly, but I'd chose a CD (or DVD, or Blueray) player based on the action of the CD draw, if it looks cool and if it's from a manufacturer known for making stuff that lasts for decades. I almost always play a CD all the way through, so programing tracks isn't an issue. A Blueray modded to a linear power supply with SPDIF out would do me.
Heh, now that's a whole other thread - CD players with nice mechs 🙂
For example the Musical fidelity X-Ray has an action like a submarine door So I was always disappointed with 'superior' A series. For me a Sony CDP337 is Niiiice and it's hard to beat the ceremony of anything with a puck. I would guess a sonic frontiers transport 3 wins outright
...I may have owned a few too many CD players 🙄
I loved my brand new Denon DCD1400 untill a few months after varanty ran out and it started making mechanical noise along with drawer teasing. It had digital out, so I dont know if that makes it relevant in this thread.
I totally butchered it half fixing it during some years.
I also have a Cambridge Blue Ray/etc at my moms place. Dont really need it so I guess it should go. @cracked case if you ever visit Aalborg you can pick it up for cheaps. Are you 220volts?
Now I use my modded Sony through some nice Danish DAC.
Anyone up for a Rotels?
Next month I will bring a gifted Denon DVD5000 to the repair cafe. Its dac sounds awesome and accepts HDCDs
A dead NAD?
A dusin car radios. Some with great room correction.
+++
Cheers!
I totally butchered it half fixing it during some years.
I also have a Cambridge Blue Ray/etc at my moms place. Dont really need it so I guess it should go. @cracked case if you ever visit Aalborg you can pick it up for cheaps. Are you 220volts?
Now I use my modded Sony through some nice Danish DAC.
Anyone up for a Rotels?
Next month I will bring a gifted Denon DVD5000 to the repair cafe. Its dac sounds awesome and accepts HDCDs
A dead NAD?
A dusin car radios. Some with great room correction.
+++
Cheers!
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