sorry, yes I have the article, I have some of those caps, so going to do some trial and error tomorrow.
Have a great night.
Have a great night.
Just a word of caution especially as you say you are a relative novice.
Your CD player has a fault.
At this time concentrate on getting it going properly first.
Do not be tempted to do "upgrades" at this point as you may compound the problem.
Replace like with like.
Do not increase / decrease values of components as some are critical.
Remember .. only one at a time!!!
Lesson learned the hard way.
Good luck.
Andy
.
Your CD player has a fault.
At this time concentrate on getting it going properly first.
Do not be tempted to do "upgrades" at this point as you may compound the problem.
Replace like with like.
Do not increase / decrease values of components as some are critical.
Remember .. only one at a time!!!
Lesson learned the hard way.
Good luck.
Andy
.
Thanks Andy, yea my Dad is helping, and he is an electronics guy, so should be okay, going to replace one at a time, and as you say no upgrades at this point.
There are a lot of caps with that value, so trial and error, I have the Circuit reference
C2103, and having disassembled the player found 2 or 3 under the tray, so trying those first, long winded, but its worth it I think.
Thanks again, hopefully I will do a bit of learning as well, keeps me out of trouble, and SWMBO happy, as the caps are cheap!!
There are a lot of caps with that value, so trial and error, I have the Circuit reference
C2103, and having disassembled the player found 2 or 3 under the tray, so trying those first, long winded, but its worth it I think.
Thanks again, hopefully I will do a bit of learning as well, keeps me out of trouble, and SWMBO happy, as the caps are cheap!!
Let's hope it's just one of the caps.
I'm not familiar with the exact machine so don't know exactly what Philips player it's based on.
I'm not familiar with the exact machine so don't know exactly what Philips player it's based on.
speaking with my Dad he seems to think that it might be the DAC, by the modulated sound that is coming from the speakers, might try an offboard DAC to determine this.
Its a TDA1541A, does this sound like a fault that could be from the DAC? What I need to do, is be able to swap them over like for like, but have no idea on cost availability etc of this DAC. I will do some hunting.
Also does it matter (if the DAC is the problem) if I use a TDA1541A S1 or S2
the one in my player is the S1 version.
the one in my player is the S1 version.
As long as it is a TDA1541A, it will not matter.
The S1 and S2 versions are really OTT expensive.
Also there are a lot of fakes around, even from "good" suppliers.
If you can get hold of an out board DAC, it would help narrow down the problem.
Andy
.
The S1 and S2 versions are really OTT expensive.
Also there are a lot of fakes around, even from "good" suppliers.
If you can get hold of an out board DAC, it would help narrow down the problem.
Andy
.
Very much agree with Andy. Borrow an outboard DAC - or take your player to one.
The results of that test will set you down the right path.
The results of that test will set you down the right path.
Indeed, thanks guys. My Dad had a listen, the music is there in the background with modulating (heavy) distortion in the foreground.
Agree... try a DAC if you can. Even something like a minidisc or CD recorder can be used as long as it has the correct inputs.
It's perhaps at the stage where it needs a 'scope check. I still find it really strange that you metioned that cleaning the lens improved matters, something odd there.
Without actually hearing the fault it's hard to say.
It's perhaps at the stage where it needs a 'scope check. I still find it really strange that you metioned that cleaning the lens improved matters, something odd there.
Without actually hearing the fault it's hard to say.
well cleaning the lens was the remark of the previous owner, so cant be 100% on that, might have been to just try and sell it....
the sound is very loud and alters with the actual music and volume of course (music is in the background and quiet)
its modulating and a kind of fluttering sound, very digital sound, not hum or hiss, um, almost like helicopter blades but changing in pitch to the music.
its modulating and a kind of fluttering sound, very digital sound, not hum or hiss, um, almost like helicopter blades but changing in pitch to the music.
We've guessed at posible common causes and not got anywhere... so now you are going to have to get technical 😉
All faultfinding begins with checking all supplies from the PSU, and checking them at their destinations. Normally I would use a 'scope for that as it shows up problems with caps etc. I would follow that with a check of the RF (eye pattern) from the RAFOC unit's RF amplifier... that's very revealing. Have you done the laser power check with a DVM... low output can sometimes cause weird audio trouble. The signal is good enough for the data etc and track info, but not good enough for error free audio... now that's a real long shot here, but it should be checked. From there on in it gets more difficult as it's impossible to acertain with simple test gear whether the data is corrupt.
Studiying the circuit and chips used and measuring down every single pin of all relevant IC's sometimes helps... you mustn't overlook anything. Even measure the ground pins. Again I would always use a scope for this... see if the voltages compare with the manual.. if not why not... sometimes manuals are wrong. Anything unexpected such as cap to ground with HF across it.
Unless the player has some unknown history IC's are usually way way down the list of suspects unless there is a known common fault affecting one. Golden rule... it's never the chip... normally 🙂
All faultfinding begins with checking all supplies from the PSU, and checking them at their destinations. Normally I would use a 'scope for that as it shows up problems with caps etc. I would follow that with a check of the RF (eye pattern) from the RAFOC unit's RF amplifier... that's very revealing. Have you done the laser power check with a DVM... low output can sometimes cause weird audio trouble. The signal is good enough for the data etc and track info, but not good enough for error free audio... now that's a real long shot here, but it should be checked. From there on in it gets more difficult as it's impossible to acertain with simple test gear whether the data is corrupt.
Studiying the circuit and chips used and measuring down every single pin of all relevant IC's sometimes helps... you mustn't overlook anything. Even measure the ground pins. Again I would always use a scope for this... see if the voltages compare with the manual.. if not why not... sometimes manuals are wrong. Anything unexpected such as cap to ground with HF across it.
Unless the player has some unknown history IC's are usually way way down the list of suspects unless there is a known common fault affecting one. Golden rule... it's never the chip... normally 🙂
Where do you live ?
Someone close by may have a DAC you could borrow.
One thing -- Are any of the chips eg DAC in sockets or are they soldered in ??
Sorry, I can't help at the moment. ( I'm rather a long way from anywhere !!)
Andy
.
Someone close by may have a DAC you could borrow.
One thing -- Are any of the chips eg DAC in sockets or are they soldered in ??
Sorry, I can't help at the moment. ( I'm rather a long way from anywhere !!)
Andy
.
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i live near a place called Yeovil in Somerset, I am trying to get hold of my friend who has a surround amp with digital inputs.
We've guessed at posible common causes and not got anywhere... so now you are going to have to get technical 😉
All faultfinding begins with checking all supplies from the PSU, and checking them at their destinations. Normally I would use a 'scope for that as it shows up problems with caps etc. I would follow that with a check of the RF (eye pattern) from the RAFOC unit's RF amplifier... that's very revealing. Have you done the laser power check with a DVM... low output can sometimes cause weird audio trouble. The signal is good enough for the data etc and track info, but not good enough for error free audio... now that's a real long shot here, but it should be checked. From there on in it gets more difficult as it's impossible to acertain with simple test gear whether the data is corrupt.
Studiying the circuit and chips used and measuring down every single pin of all relevant IC's sometimes helps... you mustn't overlook anything. Even measure the ground pins. Again I would always use a scope for this... see if the voltages compare with the manual.. if not why not... sometimes manuals are wrong. Anything unexpected such as cap to ground with HF across it.
Unless the player has some unknown history IC's are usually way way down the list of suspects unless there is a known common fault affecting one. Golden rule... it's never the chip... normally 🙂
can I send it to you to fix, its getting very heavy 😱
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