Case and metal working

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I had no idea that anodising was so inexpensive. I've had a quote to anodise all the panels for less than £15 which simply must be taken advantage of I think.

Peter, I read that anodising reduces electrical conductivity so will this affect the shielding? Is there anything else that needs to be considered?
 
Hey Vikash-
Actually, there are polishing coumpounds available, usually they contain some very fine grit mixed into a paste, which is then formed into what looks like a giant crayon. Also called "rouge". Use with a buffing wheel or soft cloth. It's often used by jewelers. You can sometimes pick the stuff up at your local hardware store, otherwise try an industrial supply house or search online. Hope this helps,
Christopher
 
Hi Vikash,
The anodised layer is electrically non conductive. If you drill holes and tap them and fit screws to fix to other metal parts of the chassis , the panels will be electrically connected. If not , you should scrape the surface of the anodised part to expose conductive metal and earth that point. If you dont do this the panel will not act as an electrical shield - as it should.
Apart from this I think there should be no other problem.
Cheers,
Ashok.
 
Hello again-
If you want bare metal contact between two parts after anodizing, just request that the anodizing shop mask the parts. Shouldn't cost much more. Also, some alloys (7000 series, for instance) don't anodize as nicely as others. Keep that in mind when purchasing metals for your casework.
Chris
 
I had the amp chasis anodised and I'm very happy with the results. I would recommend anyone to put down their cans of lacquer, forget about the many hours of sanding to a perfect finish, and get your panels anodised (it cost me £10 per chasis) 😉 Just remember to sand with the grain!

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I also spray lacquered the non contact areas of the copper heatsink (using masking tape for the chip area) and it has worked fine.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
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