Re: picture of the aluminum
That material was sheared not sawn. Bad form and practice from the supplier.
That material was sheared not sawn. Bad form and practice from the supplier.
Despite all the advice against using a router on aluminium, I have to say that on several occasions I have used a router to both trim the edges on plates and to make cutouts etc. Works like a charm every time. But the router has to be set to a slow to medium speed, and wd-40 or similar used as lubricant. To prolong the life of the router you should let it run on high speed for a few moments after running it at a slow speed.
Kickback is not an issue as long as you take your time and shave of a little at a time.
Check http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=38280 if you like to se a front plate I’ve done for my preamp using a router.
Kickback is not an issue as long as you take your time and shave of a little at a time.
Check http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=38280 if you like to se a front plate I’ve done for my preamp using a router.
I was itching to get my feet wet and so I spent some time today familiarizing myself with the drill press by drilling and tapping into aluminium. The tapping works a charm by turning the drill by hand btw.
I found it difficult to keep several pieces together while drilling and was wondering how you guys align holes? Do you clamp the pieces together and drill through them togerther, or do you find enough accuracy in measuring and drilling each piece seperately?
Also, do you typically tap both pieces (assume a front plate being attached to the side walls of an amp case), or just the side walls?
Last one is about the taps. I've seen something like M4 0.7 engraved on a tap. What's the 0.7 part mean? Should I be using a 3.3mm pilot hole?
I found it difficult to keep several pieces together while drilling and was wondering how you guys align holes? Do you clamp the pieces together and drill through them togerther, or do you find enough accuracy in measuring and drilling each piece seperately?
Also, do you typically tap both pieces (assume a front plate being attached to the side walls of an amp case), or just the side walls?
Last one is about the taps. I've seen something like M4 0.7 engraved on a tap. What's the 0.7 part mean? Should I be using a 3.3mm pilot hole?
Vikash said:
A good way to tap is by using cordless drill gun (with a clutch).
When I align two pieces, I usually drill through one first, then clamp them, mark the hole in the other piece with drill bit and later drill the other piece. For more accuracy, you might go with a smaller drill size first and then open to final size.
When using screws to keep two parts together, always tap only one hole, the other one is a full screw size.
Yes I remember reading how you tap your holes Peter. My cordless is in about 8 bits after I dropped it, but tapping the alumninium was so easy on the press. I think I've been spoilt having never done it manually 😀
I also played around with acrylic and found tapping into that a little more difficult (I've seen your acrylic work
) becuase as you tap into it the bottom gets clogged and eventually bursts/breaks the plastic if you go too far (4mm hole in 6mm plastic).
I never found it a problem to tap acrylic. I usually tap M6 x 1 holes in 1.5" thick acrylic and it always works fine. Just use proper lubricant. Another trick I use for tapping deeper holes is to make them slightly bigger dia for tapping. The tap is still strong enough, but tapping is much easier😉
I've got the press on about a medium speed and it works well on the alu. But on the acrylic I get a foggy finish rather than the transparent one I'm after. Do you drill fast or slow into acrylic, and do you use different bits?
What proper lubricant would you recommend? I never used any on the acrylic but I'm guessing WD40 is not the ideal for plastics.
Also, I've also got some copper for the heatsinks, so does all the advice you guys offered stand the same (ie. cutting on table saw)?
What proper lubricant would you recommend? I never used any on the acrylic but I'm guessing WD40 is not the ideal for plastics.
Also, I've also got some copper for the heatsinks, so does all the advice you guys offered stand the same (ie. cutting on table saw)?
You can cut copper the same way as aluminum, but this material is a bit harder so proper care has to be taken.
While drilling through acrylic, I try to use higher speeds (1,500RPM or so) but I don't use any lubricant for drilling. Some say that doing it under water is the best way.
But I use lubrican't for tapping. I got it from my work, so I don't really know where it can be acquired. It's sort of green paste.
They recommend tapmagic for aluminum.
While drilling through acrylic, I try to use higher speeds (1,500RPM or so) but I don't use any lubricant for drilling. Some say that doing it under water is the best way.
But I use lubrican't for tapping. I got it from my work, so I don't really know where it can be acquired. It's sort of green paste.
They recommend tapmagic for aluminum.
With a clean straight guide and bearing tipped carbide trimmer bit, you can do amazingly clean cuts with a router. Just don't try to cut more than 1/8" at a pass.
Spent some more time tapping holes today. Drilling accurately was difficult as the drill bit seems to move into a different position as you start to cut. It's quite and issue when you're trying for an M4 bolt in a 6mm wide object. In the end I had to drill with thin bit with only about 10mm sticking out of the drill, and then drill the full size hole.
M4 in 6m thick acrylic. 😀
Also, just before finishing today I tried drilling through the acrylic by hand (turning the chuck manually) and the result was a much cleaner (transparent) finish.
M4 in 6m thick acrylic. 😀
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Also, just before finishing today I tried drilling through the acrylic by hand (turning the chuck manually) and the result was a much cleaner (transparent) finish.
Find split point drills. The nose geometry prevents walking. Otherwise center drill first.
Use Formula 409 or Fantastik spray cleaner for machining lubrication in acylic and plexi.
Use Formula 409 or Fantastik spray cleaner for machining lubrication in acylic and plexi.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Vikash said:
Try to mark the hole with a center punch first, then drill small pilot hole. After that open full size, it will be much more accurate, exactly where you want it.
with plastic, you can often use a brad-point bit.
Otherwise, clamp your work to a press and run the bit as short as you can to get the hole started without any bit wobble. with it clamped, it should remain perfectly aligned.
And I discovered on re-reading that this lovely bbs software hacks out the proper name of the file type I use (a ba5tard mill file). Gotta love it.
C
Otherwise, clamp your work to a press and run the bit as short as you can to get the hole started without any bit wobble. with it clamped, it should remain perfectly aligned.
And I discovered on re-reading that this lovely bbs software hacks out the proper name of the file type I use (a ba5tard mill file). Gotta love it.
C
Since I don't have any lubricant yet and the drill bit gets really hot and seems to be burning its way through, I've been turning the drill manually and using WD40 as lubricant. The results are much better.
M3 x .5 this time.
Centre punching and starting out with a thin bit works well.
Regarding the clutch method of tapping: My drill has 12 speeds (belt and pulley method) and I found that by loosening the belts as much as possible and selecting the slowest speed (280 rpm) you get a sort of clutch effect that works for tapping in acrylic. I leave the pulley case open which prevents the motor from running continuously. With short jabs at the start button the tap eases in nice and slowly, and stops turning at a good point too.
I also noticed that using a tap with two straight valleys (don't know the tech. name) is not as good as one that looks like a drill bit (spiralling valleys). The first one pushes too much material to the bottom when tapping, while the latter lifts it out better.
You can never learn this stuff without experimenting it seems 😀
M3 x .5 this time.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Centre punching and starting out with a thin bit works well.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Regarding the clutch method of tapping: My drill has 12 speeds (belt and pulley method) and I found that by loosening the belts as much as possible and selecting the slowest speed (280 rpm) you get a sort of clutch effect that works for tapping in acrylic. I leave the pulley case open which prevents the motor from running continuously. With short jabs at the start button the tap eases in nice and slowly, and stops turning at a good point too.
I also noticed that using a tap with two straight valleys (don't know the tech. name) is not as good as one that looks like a drill bit (spiralling valleys). The first one pushes too much material to the bottom when tapping, while the latter lifts it out better.
You can never learn this stuff without experimenting it seems 😀
I cut some scrap aluminium (0.5" thick) using my new blade on the table saw and was suprised how easily it cuts. However I'm getting slightly warped edges on the cuts and I don't know if it's the thickness of the material, the blade (£14!), or something else. I was getting the same warped edges on acrylic too.
I've been using WD40 but have ordered some ROC53023 Rocol RTD to see if the lubricant changes anything.
I'm also having problems drilling the countersink for screws consistently in the centre. I can get the thread hole drilled and tapped quite accurately now, but then when it comes to drilling to countersink it becomes hit or miss whether it will be centered on the thread hole.
I've been using WD40 but have ordered some ROC53023 Rocol RTD to see if the lubricant changes anything.
I'm also having problems drilling the countersink for screws consistently in the centre. I can get the thread hole drilled and tapped quite accurately now, but then when it comes to drilling to countersink it becomes hit or miss whether it will be centered on the thread hole.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Vikash said:
Check this post http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=45896&highlight=#post45896
This method works for me perfectly and the countersink is always very accurate. You do countersink first, and then open the tap hole.
After enough practice cuts on scrap half inch bars, I went for it. I used the new lube and it was like a hot knife through butter for the most part (copper gets hot quick when cutting on table saw 😀 ).
Only when lining up the cut did I notice how innacruately cut the pieces were from the supplier. But this has worked great - and I still have all limbs intact.
The warped edges I mentioned previously was because I was pulling the piece back the same way after pushing it through the first part of the blade. This time I made sure to push through all the way, and then pass the piece through a second time with no adjustments to get an even finer finish.
Only when lining up the cut did I notice how innacruately cut the pieces were from the supplier. But this has worked great - and I still have all limbs intact.
The warped edges I mentioned previously was because I was pulling the piece back the same way after pushing it through the first part of the blade. This time I made sure to push through all the way, and then pass the piece through a second time with no adjustments to get an even finer finish.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Member
Joined 2002
Im folowing this thread because im trying to design this exact chasis for my mono block poweramp aleph 2's
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Internal layout
The chasis is small, so I'm wondering which to keep the furthest away from the amps so as to minimise potential interference, the transformer or rectifier board?
The chasis is small, so I'm wondering which to keep the furthest away from the amps so as to minimise potential interference, the transformer or rectifier board?
- Status
- Not open for further replies.