Apologies guys I thought you mentioned DSP not DAP!
Anyway back on topic how can I get this to work!?
So it will be S23 to K3 via USB and from K3 over TOSLINK to AP F8.9.
Two things spring to mind. The K3 is listed as a desktop device so you may need to rig up a power supply of some kind as your phone might baulk at powering it and the optical output is limited to 24/96. I'd prefer the simplicity of an AK300 or maybe a SE300 directly driving the F8.9.
Two things spring to mind. The K3 is listed as a desktop device so you may need to rig up a power supply of some kind as your phone might baulk at powering it and the optical output is limited to 24/96. I'd prefer the simplicity of an AK300 or maybe a SE300 directly driving the F8.9.
So...why didn't you suggest one of them in the 1st place! ? 🤔
Firstly, the AK300 looks to be a discontinued model now.
Secondly, the SE300 is £1900.00 compared with £89.00 for the FIIO K3.
Thirdly, am I correct in thinking that due to me using USB (Digital) out of my S23 to the K3 and then from the K3 Optical Toslink to the AP F8.9, no decoding will be undertaken by any of those two previous devices, and will instead be undertaken by the DAC inside my AP F8.9?
And also both of those devices you suggested don't have Toslink out.
If I am correct with the above, then 89.99 for an optical transport device to get a pure digital signal to my AP F8.9 compared with £1800.00 is a no brainer?
Why would somebody spend more money for receiving no benefit?
Also I've looked into the K3 and it runs fine off a phone, however I'm also installing a wireless charging mat to keep the phone charged whilst in use.
Firstly, the AK300 looks to be a discontinued model now.
Secondly, the SE300 is £1900.00 compared with £89.00 for the FIIO K3.
Thirdly, am I correct in thinking that due to me using USB (Digital) out of my S23 to the K3 and then from the K3 Optical Toslink to the AP F8.9, no decoding will be undertaken by any of those two previous devices, and will instead be undertaken by the DAC inside my AP F8.9?
And also both of those devices you suggested don't have Toslink out.
If I am correct with the above, then 89.99 for an optical transport device to get a pure digital signal to my AP F8.9 compared with £1800.00 is a no brainer?
Why would somebody spend more money for receiving no benefit?
Also I've looked into the K3 and it runs fine off a phone, however I'm also installing a wireless charging mat to keep the phone charged whilst in use.
I have the AK300 and it is supposed to have an optical output not that I have ever used it, as does the SE300, but as you say it is discontinued. One of Kann range, the Cube I think, maybe the least expensive AK with an optical out but even that is north of £1k.
It depends on your expectations. For some the purity of the path is a key component of the listening experience. The S23 may well pass USB audio untouched but I wouldn't know. It would be interesting to see if it passes a HDCD encoded file in manner that still triggers the HDCD led.
It depends on your expectations. For some the purity of the path is a key component of the listening experience. The S23 may well pass USB audio untouched but I wouldn't know. It would be interesting to see if it passes a HDCD encoded file in manner that still triggers the HDCD led.
Going back a step, no one has suggested a dedicated car media head unit, which would seem to me to be conventional wisdom - especially since it's to be integrated with another permanently installed device (Audison DSP/amp).
Unfortunately the majority of car AV receivers don't offer s/pdif output - but there is one notable exception - JOYFORWA -
https://joyforwacarradiostore.aliexpress.com/store/3912002
They offer models with screen sizes from 7 inch to 15 inch.
Unfortunately the majority of car AV receivers don't offer s/pdif output - but there is one notable exception - JOYFORWA -
https://joyforwacarradiostore.aliexpress.com/store/3912002
They offer models with screen sizes from 7 inch to 15 inch.
Unfortunately I don't have that option.
The car is a Honda Cicic 10th Gen, everything is integrated into the infotainment system, and to make matters worse, I have what Honda call the 'Premium' 11 x Speaker system, but it sounded like the worst stereo system I've ever heard. I literally couldn't even have it on when I first purchased the car as it was really that bad.
Because it's the 'Premium' system, it has Honda own proprietary Optical lead feeding an external Honda OEM Amp.
I therefore broke into the wiring loom for the Speaker outputs from the amp, and took them to the Audison, and installed a 3 way active front end, consisting of all Audison Voce Midbass, Midrange, Tweeters, and 10 inch active sub, and faded out the OEM rears from the Honda head unit.
The result was magic. Completely different level sound and everything looks OEM, apart from the Mids on the A Pillars.
I looked into the Joying replacement head unit, but I don't think they did the replacement for the Premium system (due to the Honda proprietary optical lead) and also I wanted to keep it OEM looking.and actually quite like the look of the dashboard and the oem head unit.
The car is a Honda Cicic 10th Gen, everything is integrated into the infotainment system, and to make matters worse, I have what Honda call the 'Premium' 11 x Speaker system, but it sounded like the worst stereo system I've ever heard. I literally couldn't even have it on when I first purchased the car as it was really that bad.
Because it's the 'Premium' system, it has Honda own proprietary Optical lead feeding an external Honda OEM Amp.
I therefore broke into the wiring loom for the Speaker outputs from the amp, and took them to the Audison, and installed a 3 way active front end, consisting of all Audison Voce Midbass, Midrange, Tweeters, and 10 inch active sub, and faded out the OEM rears from the Honda head unit.
The result was magic. Completely different level sound and everything looks OEM, apart from the Mids on the A Pillars.
I looked into the Joying replacement head unit, but I don't think they did the replacement for the Premium system (due to the Honda proprietary optical lead) and also I wanted to keep it OEM looking.and actually quite like the look of the dashboard and the oem head unit.
You make some fair points.
But this is a DIY forum, and I'm a DIY kinda guy. I like taking stock things and making them better. I have upgraded the basic CD player in my old Mercedes to a modern media player system, while keeping a "retro" look. I will do some Googling about your Civic in the next day or so. In the meantime, have a look at this -
But this is a DIY forum, and I'm a DIY kinda guy. I like taking stock things and making them better. I have upgraded the basic CD player in my old Mercedes to a modern media player system, while keeping a "retro" look. I will do some Googling about your Civic in the next day or so. In the meantime, have a look at this -
Many Thanks mate appreciate your offer, however I did this to death over 6 months ago.
Everything is controlled inside the oem amp, the only wiring from the head unit to the amp is via Optical.
If you install the Joying, then even if it has the Honda connection it still needs to go through the oem amp, because if if doesn't, then all speakers and system sounds are muted.
Doing the way I have, I can still use every oem function exactly as it was, but with the added ability of having a direct optical feed straight into the Audison and then directly out to the speakers without ANY oem interference (I also rewired the whole 3 way front stage with new wire from oem amp to Audison, and also from Audison to speakers, therefore I know for sure the signal from the Audison isn't being messed with by anything).
And the oem radio also sounds fantastic now as well, due to the Audison de-equalising the oem signal from the oem amp before it reaches the speakers).
Everything is controlled inside the oem amp, the only wiring from the head unit to the amp is via Optical.
If you install the Joying, then even if it has the Honda connection it still needs to go through the oem amp, because if if doesn't, then all speakers and system sounds are muted.
Doing the way I have, I can still use every oem function exactly as it was, but with the added ability of having a direct optical feed straight into the Audison and then directly out to the speakers without ANY oem interference (I also rewired the whole 3 way front stage with new wire from oem amp to Audison, and also from Audison to speakers, therefore I know for sure the signal from the Audison isn't being messed with by anything).
And the oem radio also sounds fantastic now as well, due to the Audison de-equalising the oem signal from the oem amp before it reaches the speakers).
OK, I see the Civic audio system is complicated, with a separate amplifier behind the passenger kick-panel. I must say it was something of an achievement, on your part, to bypass this amplifier with the Audison amplifier.
I suppose as an experiment it's now worth trying audio output from your phone, via a USB-s/pdif bridge, to the s/pdif input of your Audison amp ... but -
I think a better option (for the suggested configuration) would be an SMSL PO100 or Douk U2 -
https://www.smsl-audio.com/portal/product/detail/id/809.html
https://doukaudio.com/products/douk...al-converter-xmos-xu208-digital-interface-dsd
I suppose as an experiment it's now worth trying audio output from your phone, via a USB-s/pdif bridge, to the s/pdif input of your Audison amp ... but -
The FiiO K3 is a DAC/headphone-amp/USB-s/pdif-bridge, but in the suggested configuration will only be used for its USB-s/pdif conversion function. The headphone amplifier function is overkill, and as rfbrw noted, that means it will likely draw more current than a straight USB-s/pdif converter.
I think a better option (for the suggested configuration) would be an SMSL PO100 or Douk U2 -
https://www.smsl-audio.com/portal/product/detail/id/809.html
https://doukaudio.com/products/douk...al-converter-xmos-xu208-digital-interface-dsd
Many Thanks mate, yes it wasn't easy, however I found a wiring diagram for my car, and then just took my time tracing the wiring, and cutting into the loom and making good crimps and I also strain relieved each connection as didn't want any possibility of crimps failing in the future as didn't want to have to go tracing faults further down the line, do it once and once only!!
Anyway getting back to the Fiio K3. I see your point above re the non powered units and I agreed they would have been the better option, however I didn't know about them at the time.
I'm in the UK but I can source them off Amazon.
The problem I have is this.
I've been testing the K3 compared with my Bluetooth connection using LDAC from my phone directly to the AudisoN BCON which in turn is connected via Optical directly to the Audison DSP. And the Audio seems to sound better via Bluetooth!!! ?
Now the BCON does sound superb I must admit, but I've heard all over the place that wired is always better than Bluetooth?
I'm wondering if it's something to do with my Android Samsung S23 Ultra resampling the output before it leaves the USB port in digital form? But wouldn't it also be doing this for the Bluetooth as well before it sends it in LDAC via Bluetooth?
Therefore I don't know if its any one of the below issues?
1. I'm using Amazon HD and if I was to go Tidal it has a built in workaround to prevent Android resampling the sound.
2. Possibly the Fiio K3 not outputting at a rate equal to or higher than my LDAC transfer via Bluetooth? Therefore possibly purchase one of those units you suggested above? As I understand they will output a higher bitrate than the K3? But is this even relevant with a Digital optical signal? As it's only light?
Anyway getting back to the Fiio K3. I see your point above re the non powered units and I agreed they would have been the better option, however I didn't know about them at the time.
I'm in the UK but I can source them off Amazon.
The problem I have is this.
I've been testing the K3 compared with my Bluetooth connection using LDAC from my phone directly to the AudisoN BCON which in turn is connected via Optical directly to the Audison DSP. And the Audio seems to sound better via Bluetooth!!! ?
Now the BCON does sound superb I must admit, but I've heard all over the place that wired is always better than Bluetooth?
I'm wondering if it's something to do with my Android Samsung S23 Ultra resampling the output before it leaves the USB port in digital form? But wouldn't it also be doing this for the Bluetooth as well before it sends it in LDAC via Bluetooth?
Therefore I don't know if its any one of the below issues?
1. I'm using Amazon HD and if I was to go Tidal it has a built in workaround to prevent Android resampling the sound.
2. Possibly the Fiio K3 not outputting at a rate equal to or higher than my LDAC transfer via Bluetooth? Therefore possibly purchase one of those units you suggested above? As I understand they will output a higher bitrate than the K3? But is this even relevant with a Digital optical signal? As it's only light?
Also I've just checked my DSP and the Optical Input is stated as 192Khz/24 bit......
Therefore the K3 is already able to transfer better rates than my DSP can receive as the K3 is rated at 384Khz /32 bit......
The Audison BCon im using is receiving my LDAC files over Bluetooth from my phone and the Bcon states 24bit/96Khz.....
Therefore why is the Bcon sounding better with Bluetooth than the Fiio directly connected to the DSP via Optical as in theory the DSP will be receiving a higher bit rate (even though it can't receive higher than 24bit) and a higher KHz of 192Khz instead of the 96Khz from the Bcon?
Bit puzzled now as the best route to go?
Therefore the K3 is already able to transfer better rates than my DSP can receive as the K3 is rated at 384Khz /32 bit......
The Audison BCon im using is receiving my LDAC files over Bluetooth from my phone and the Bcon states 24bit/96Khz.....
Therefore why is the Bcon sounding better with Bluetooth than the Fiio directly connected to the DSP via Optical as in theory the DSP will be receiving a higher bit rate (even though it can't receive higher than 24bit) and a higher KHz of 192Khz instead of the 96Khz from the Bcon?
Bit puzzled now as the best route to go?
Hi Mark, it's all 12V in a car. As the Bcon and DSP are both Audison, the Bcon is connected by a plug directly to the DSP and then piggy backs of the DSPs power supply and remote turn on. When I use the Fiio (instead of the Bcon) it's connected to my phone therefore running of the phones battery.