From the alternator it would go to a fuse then from the fuse holder to the back of the truck and to another fuse holder then to the battery .
As far as the amps go I would get a fuse block and each run of wire would have its own fuse so 3 fuses per amp
As far as the amps go I would get a fuse block and each run of wire would have its own fuse so 3 fuses per amp
Ok up to the next question . I have a set of tweeters going in the kick panels see picture .
Should I add a bipolar caps to these ? I’m gonna be running crossovers thru a dsp but wondering if I should also add a bipolar cap to these tweeters ?
And if so anyone know what value cap I should add and voltage rating ?
Should I add a bipolar caps to these ? I’m gonna be running crossovers thru a dsp but wondering if I should also add a bipolar cap to these tweeters ?
And if so anyone know what value cap I should add and voltage rating ?
Attachments
A capacitor will protect the tweeter in case the amp ever fails in a way that drives DC to the speaker output.
Any capacitor will provide protection from DC. You'll need a capacitor that will allow all frequencies from the DSP to pass.
For an amp that will not produce significantly more than the tweeters can handle, a 100v cap would be more than enough.
Any capacitor will provide protection from DC. You'll need a capacitor that will allow all frequencies from the DSP to pass.
For an amp that will not produce significantly more than the tweeters can handle, a 100v cap would be more than enough.
Where do you want the tweeter to work from and to. 6Khz or lower? it's a 4 ohm driver. To add clarity use steep ramps
18-24db 3rd or 4th order. You can use 12 or even 6 but it is sloppy for what I do and a lot less protection. With those tweets
your not going to break the bank. But mounted in the kicks even dome have their work cut out for themselves. Good place
for a 7-8" full range.
"would have its own fuse so 3 fuses per amp". I'm sure you meant to say one fuse per amp.
I am concerned the voltage is to high for the actual OBD2 and illumination on the vehicle. It's one thing
to run higher voltage setting still and plugged into a gen set for Competition. It's a whole different thing running around town
at anything above 14.2 volts. 13.8-14.2 you will be adding liquid the standard acid/lead battery. It WILL cook a jell cell to
death in a very short time. When I say a short time I'm 68, put it in perspective. You will 1/2 the life of a battery that should last 5-7 years. When you hit 15 VDC with a 200 amp alternator, you have a good wire feed welder if your not careful.
Adding cap banks is a good idea. I use a pair of 30Fs. BE CAREFUL! Mine are in a sort of plastic armor, but big caps can
really make a noise for the shell shocked crowd. I chuckle now but it wasn't always that way. I HATE getting bit with
any unwanted voltage, but DC will fry you in a second. Use the back of you hand, with DC your hands will constrict,
you won't be able to let go.
I was in the engine room on a sea going tug. The mechanic was fried with 24VDC marine.
I was there to find out why. He did not observe a simple well known practices. He touched with the palm vs back of the hand while holding a grounded steal pipe. He was well done by the time the got to him.. Of course they were in 15 foot seas with a dead power plant. That was a nasty job along with me feeding the sharks every 30 minutes or so.
The point is be careful. 12 volts will kill you dead with CAP BANKS or not. Pretty good fire works when they pop too. LOL
Regards
18-24db 3rd or 4th order. You can use 12 or even 6 but it is sloppy for what I do and a lot less protection. With those tweets
your not going to break the bank. But mounted in the kicks even dome have their work cut out for themselves. Good place
for a 7-8" full range.
"would have its own fuse so 3 fuses per amp". I'm sure you meant to say one fuse per amp.
I am concerned the voltage is to high for the actual OBD2 and illumination on the vehicle. It's one thing
to run higher voltage setting still and plugged into a gen set for Competition. It's a whole different thing running around town
at anything above 14.2 volts. 13.8-14.2 you will be adding liquid the standard acid/lead battery. It WILL cook a jell cell to
death in a very short time. When I say a short time I'm 68, put it in perspective. You will 1/2 the life of a battery that should last 5-7 years. When you hit 15 VDC with a 200 amp alternator, you have a good wire feed welder if your not careful.
Adding cap banks is a good idea. I use a pair of 30Fs. BE CAREFUL! Mine are in a sort of plastic armor, but big caps can
really make a noise for the shell shocked crowd. I chuckle now but it wasn't always that way. I HATE getting bit with
any unwanted voltage, but DC will fry you in a second. Use the back of you hand, with DC your hands will constrict,
you won't be able to let go.
I was in the engine room on a sea going tug. The mechanic was fried with 24VDC marine.
I was there to find out why. He did not observe a simple well known practices. He touched with the palm vs back of the hand while holding a grounded steal pipe. He was well done by the time the got to him.. Of course they were in 15 foot seas with a dead power plant. That was a nasty job along with me feeding the sharks every 30 minutes or so.
The point is be careful. 12 volts will kill you dead with CAP BANKS or not. Pretty good fire works when they pop too. LOL
Regards
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I have an after market head unit going in this build I noticed that the radio reception is very poor with the after market head unit but works perfectly fine with the stock head unit .
I’ve heard I can purchase a powered antenna adapter to boost the signal .
Since I need the adapter in a 2010 tahoe when replacing the head unit is there sick a thing as a powered one so it boosts the signal and if so where do I look ? I tried google but nothing came up about powered ones maybe I looked in the wrong spot
I’ve heard I can purchase a powered antenna adapter to boost the signal .
Since I need the adapter in a 2010 tahoe when replacing the head unit is there sick a thing as a powered one so it boosts the signal and if so where do I look ? I tried google but nothing came up about powered ones maybe I looked in the wrong spot
Did you search for:
car fm signal booster
They rarely work.
Does the reception improve if you switch off the amplifiers? Some can interfere with reception.
car fm signal booster
They rarely work.
Does the reception improve if you switch off the amplifiers? Some can interfere with reception.
How does the reception compare to other aftermarket head units?
Are you using an antenna that you know to be good?
Are you using an antenna that you know to be good?
The antenna I’m using is good . I’m wondering if the factory antenna needs to see power ?
In the image below this is the antenna I have on my Tahoe . Not sure if it’s a powered antenna or not I think crutchfield said I needed to use the power antenna wire from the headunit and hook it up to the antenna wire on the factory harness . But it says nothing about this in the instructions. So not sure if I have to hook a wire up or not
In the image below this is the antenna I have on my Tahoe . Not sure if it’s a powered antenna or not I think crutchfield said I needed to use the power antenna wire from the headunit and hook it up to the antenna wire on the factory harness . But it says nothing about this in the instructions. So not sure if I have to hook a wire up or not
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Link to the Crutchfield page for this antenna?
Do you have a standard car antenna that you could use?
Does the head unit have the antenna input on a wire or does it plug directly into the head unit chassis?
Do you have a standard car antenna that you could use?
Does the head unit have the antenna input on a wire or does it plug directly into the head unit chassis?
The antenna pictured in my last post is a factory antenna here is a link to the exact part from the dealer but it doesn’t tell you much
https://www.gmpartsonline.net/oem-p...9dGFob2UmeT0yMDEwJnQ9bHQmZT01LTNsLXY4LWZsZXg=
If I bench test the headunit and use a piece of wire as the antenna the radio reception is good only in the vehicle is where the reception is very poor
https://www.gmpartsonline.net/oem-p...9dGFob2UmeT0yMDEwJnQ9bHQmZT01LTNsLXY4LWZsZXg=
If I bench test the headunit and use a piece of wire as the antenna the radio reception is good only in the vehicle is where the reception is very poor