�� oops.
I added the “plug” on the end of the tweeter wire on the R speaker. Listened to a female vocal track and switched back and forth and it sounds like the high frequency (ringing like) sound is almost gone. By applying your method to the L speaker maybe I can hear what the difference between the two are.
I added the “plug” on the end of the tweeter wire on the R speaker. Listened to a female vocal track and switched back and forth and it sounds like the high frequency (ringing like) sound is almost gone. By applying your method to the L speaker maybe I can hear what the difference between the two are.
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I decided to make the second plug for the L speaker first and listen to this modification for a while before I solder the resistor to the crossover board, using AllenB’s method of placing it in series right next to the capacitor for the tweeter.
I have no idea what the difference will be but maybe I can hear it.
I have no idea what the difference will be but maybe I can hear it.
After adding resistance, speaker placement, angle and room treatment. I even added foam sealer to maybe bring the compliance back to the original rubber surrounds. Oh well, I gave up.
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The compliance feels closer to the rubber surrounds I replaced. It did alter the foam to feel like it had more body.
Pulled the plug and replaced the Clarity CSA capacitors with the OEM units. Low and behold the warmth, mid imaging is back. So I’m back to square one, where I wanted to tone down the upper frequency just a tad. I’ll try the plug in resistors I made first then draw the crossover in a CAD software package and start to play around.
Pulled the plug and replaced the Clarity CSA capacitors with the OEM units. Low and behold the warmth, mid imaging is back. So I’m back to square one, where I wanted to tone down the upper frequency just a tad. I’ll try the plug in resistors I made first then draw the crossover in a CAD software package and start to play around.
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you meant you still have no success with the clarity + extra resitors ? Go back to the original filter with the original caps if not in the garbadge. Clarity is a good invest for a further project or different needs. ( avoid long tim soldering, 5 seconds on a lead at 350C° is the maximum, better a hot iiron to go fast btw. Avoid soldering with silver into it.
Edit : you posted faster !
Edit 2 : the resistors you use seems not to be resistors for speaker with bigger wattage... could explain also the bad result in your experience : too much heat gives distorsion.
Edit : you posted faster !
Edit 2 : the resistors you use seems not to be resistors for speaker with bigger wattage... could explain also the bad result in your experience : too much heat gives distorsion.
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I sent a tech at Madisound my capacitors and a picture of the crossover board with the model number of my speakers. I assumed I would get the proper replacement items. I guess I should have dug deeper into this site to realize there is so much involved.
I truly thank everyone and I learned a bunch. I’m not afraid to tackle speakers but maybe start from scratch. I’m just getting started 😂
I truly thank everyone and I learned a bunch. I’m not afraid to tackle speakers but maybe start from scratch. I’m just getting started 😂
That's good ... but please let me add just one more thing.
The technician's first two rules...
1) If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
2) If it is broke know when to stop fixing it.
As @Wiseoldtech pointed out way back at the beginning of this thread, this whole business about capacitor replacement is blown way out of proportion.
Blowby,
can you provide essential information so that you can receive proper help, if that is what you came here for?
1. pictures of the loudspeakers (measures w,h,d)
2. original xo schematic
3. enclosure internal volume
4. all the parts values that you possess
5. describe simply what you think is wrong with them
Try to make an impedance measurement of the repaired midwoofers using ARTA labs LIMP module. The schematic is simple with one 100R resistor and wires. You need a sound card (motherboard sound chip) with a separate Line In and Line Out. It would make a simulation more accurate. Use the LIMP to measure inductance as well, the same for tweeter.
I think this can be solved (sort of) within 2 hours of work, I am just not sure anyone is willing to do that.
can you provide essential information so that you can receive proper help, if that is what you came here for?
1. pictures of the loudspeakers (measures w,h,d)
2. original xo schematic
3. enclosure internal volume
4. all the parts values that you possess
5. describe simply what you think is wrong with them
Try to make an impedance measurement of the repaired midwoofers using ARTA labs LIMP module. The schematic is simple with one 100R resistor and wires. You need a sound card (motherboard sound chip) with a separate Line In and Line Out. It would make a simulation more accurate. Use the LIMP to measure inductance as well, the same for tweeter.
I think this can be solved (sort of) within 2 hours of work, I am just not sure anyone is willing to do that.
Yes. I surmise a new sweep in the same room will show more about the surroundings swap than the new caps.
Anyway, the caps showed in the pictures looks all like mkt so mylar cap. I dunno for the reds brand as they looks a little rounded, maybe Xicon, hard to say... any Mkt Vishay orange drop for the red is ok imho.
The blue one could be several brands as the old Philips for instance or ERO ? BC caps are the swap for older Philips. Don't use expensive solder with silver in it. Don't putt the iron more than 5 seconds on the leads at the same time. Notice surroundings swap asks for a little hundred hours circa -not an exact science- to break in and becomming less stiff.
It's ok with the advices on the forum, you have made the most important, you measured the caps before sending them. Think also to check on docs if the tweeter is ferro fluid cooled , it procures damping too so can be heard...though the brain doesn't notice changes when the specs are moving slowly year after year, brain is compensing often...
Anyway, the caps showed in the pictures looks all like mkt so mylar cap. I dunno for the reds brand as they looks a little rounded, maybe Xicon, hard to say... any Mkt Vishay orange drop for the red is ok imho.
The blue one could be several brands as the old Philips for instance or ERO ? BC caps are the swap for older Philips. Don't use expensive solder with silver in it. Don't putt the iron more than 5 seconds on the leads at the same time. Notice surroundings swap asks for a little hundred hours circa -not an exact science- to break in and becomming less stiff.
It's ok with the advices on the forum, you have made the most important, you measured the caps before sending them. Think also to check on docs if the tweeter is ferro fluid cooled , it procures damping too so can be heard...though the brain doesn't notice changes when the specs are moving slowly year after year, brain is compensing often...