good place to find aluminum reflector for >= 15'' project
http://www.lightinggroup.ca/master_line.htm
http://www.lightinggroup.ca/master_line.htm
250watt double ended MH HQI prices
Got prices from 2 places about their MH bulbs
www.nalp.com (Mississauga : Dixie /Eglinton )
250wat UShio bulbs: $150cdn
ballat for those bulbs: $100cdn
sockets (porcelaine*): $6cdn
www.atlaslighting.ca (Scarborough)
bulb: $85
ballast : $149
2 sockets: ~$10
Got prices from 2 places about their MH bulbs
www.nalp.com (Mississauga : Dixie /Eglinton )
250wat UShio bulbs: $150cdn
ballat for those bulbs: $100cdn
sockets (porcelaine*): $6cdn
www.atlaslighting.ca (Scarborough)
bulb: $85
ballast : $149
2 sockets: ~$10
aluminum reflector for >=15'' LCD
Toronto Metal Spinning & Lighting Ltd
905-793-1174
247A Summerlea Road,
Brampton, ON L6T 4E1
http://www.tmslighting.com/
http://www.tmslighting.com/pdf/SC-207.pdf
available with shine anodized reflector finish
I am waiting pricing.
Toronto Metal Spinning & Lighting Ltd
905-793-1174
247A Summerlea Road,
Brampton, ON L6T 4E1
http://www.tmslighting.com/
http://www.tmslighting.com/pdf/SC-207.pdf
available with shine anodized reflector finish
I am waiting pricing.
Before you spend:
anodized finished are usually grey. It might be a shiny grey but it wont reflect the whole spectrum. Make sure they understand your application before they say they got what you need!
anodized finished are usually grey. It might be a shiny grey but it wont reflect the whole spectrum. Make sure they understand your application before they say they got what you need!
Hey guys i'm back! i've decided to start on my projector again. my funds are limited so im going the cheapest route. starting with a playstation lcd, ohp guts, split fresnel, and projection lense. i'll get back to you as soon as parts start arriving.
Lenses
Anyone got a good Canadian source for fresnell lenses, aside from buying up an old overhead projector and stripping it? I need to track down something in the 10-inch square range, but I don't want to order from the U.S. because the duties/brokerage fees lately have been a KILLLER. 😉 I tried calling the telescope store on Dufferin St. in Toronto (south of Hwy. 401), but the guy had no idea what I wanted...
Cheers,
IJ
Anyone got a good Canadian source for fresnell lenses, aside from buying up an old overhead projector and stripping it? I need to track down something in the 10-inch square range, but I don't want to order from the U.S. because the duties/brokerage fees lately have been a KILLLER. 😉 I tried calling the telescope store on Dufferin St. in Toronto (south of Hwy. 401), but the guy had no idea what I wanted...
Cheers,
IJ
How about good ol page magnifiers at Office Depot or the cheaper ones at some dollar stores / IDAs?
For what it's worth...
I ordered my lens kit from LumenLab, in the states, and though there was a freight charge, it wasn't too bad. There were no customs/duty charges on the package when it arrived. Everything arrived in good order.
The only downside was that it took a couple of days between when I ordered it and it shipped, then a couple more days for shipping.
I ordered my lens kit from LumenLab, in the states, and though there was a freight charge, it wasn't too bad. There were no customs/duty charges on the package when it arrived. Everything arrived in good order.
The only downside was that it took a couple of days between when I ordered it and it shipped, then a couple more days for shipping.
i'm scrapping the PSone LCD, and going with a Proxima Ovation 820 LCD Panel. Hoping to get it sometime late next week. Waiting for response for projection lens, and the unsplit fresnel. Updates will come.
Ovation panels
If you haven't bought the 820 yet, hold out for an a822c. That panel has an extra inch or so per side, and is supposed to have a 200:1 contrast ratio. I have both panels, but the 820 showed up with some burned pixels, so I got an a822c with no cables for $9.99 U.S. on ebay. I'm building a projector right now using the a822c, the power supply cables from the 820, and an old opaque projector (WICKED lens on this thing, plus it has a front side mirror and IR glass already installed). I just need to, um, "modify" the case a bit. Upgrading the existing light to a 400 watt metal halide bulb (the bulb's about the size of a small football) and I have to build a light box under the projector to house it and route the light up through the projection stage (instead of bouncing the light off the way the opaque projector is designed to work). Let you know how it goes, I see a lot of Dremel work over the next couple of weeks... 😉
Cheers,
IJ
If you haven't bought the 820 yet, hold out for an a822c. That panel has an extra inch or so per side, and is supposed to have a 200:1 contrast ratio. I have both panels, but the 820 showed up with some burned pixels, so I got an a822c with no cables for $9.99 U.S. on ebay. I'm building a projector right now using the a822c, the power supply cables from the 820, and an old opaque projector (WICKED lens on this thing, plus it has a front side mirror and IR glass already installed). I just need to, um, "modify" the case a bit. Upgrading the existing light to a 400 watt metal halide bulb (the bulb's about the size of a small football) and I have to build a light box under the projector to house it and route the light up through the projection stage (instead of bouncing the light off the way the opaque projector is designed to work). Let you know how it goes, I see a lot of Dremel work over the next couple of weeks... 😉
Cheers,
IJ
I think the only usefull part from an opaque pj would be the lens. I got one for free and even the lens was only a singlet. You will need a fresnel to focus the light through the LCD and redirect it through the lens. < l > Otherwise your lumens will be scattered! 
BAGMAN51 said:I think the only usefull part from an opaque pj would be the lens. I got one for free and even the lens was only a singlet. You will need a fresnel to focus the light through the LCD and redirect it through the lens. < l > Otherwise your lumens will be scattered!
Dont know what kind of opaque projector you got. I got one of those old bigass ones. Got a 135mm diamter triplet lens and matching front surface morror, and mounts and focus system out of it that would be easily transferred to a custom box. The lens looks and seems identical to the 119.99 diylabs triplet. Cost me 9.99 for the whole thing, and was local too so no shipping😀
Cheers,
Alex
Hi:
Yeah, some opaques are crap, you have to look for a good one with good optics. One with a wide base, too, so you can mod it (don't go for a VuLite II, for example - too hard to modify the base).
I got a Beseler VuLite III - great lens, and like I said, it has a huge (over a square foot, although it's tapered) front-surface mirror and a long-travel focus mechanism already built in for the lens. The light used to shine down on the surface of a book (or whatever) and get bounced up to the lens, but I've done a major mod after totally gutting it and removing the original light.
Now the light chamber is walled off (with sheet steel) and houses the new MH ballast and mogul (from a high-bay warehouse light). I cut a hole in the bottom of the projector so a 400 watt MH bulb could poke down from the light chamber into a custom steel box I built. (the old projector chassis is now mounted on a box about a foot deep that runs the full length of the projector). Need the steel, because of heat - if the bulb blows, it can shoot 1,000-degree-Celcius quartz shards around at high speed, so you REALLY don't want to be using a wooden box... Basically the only flamable things in my PJ now are a couple of wires and the panel itself.
I mounted a mirror inside the custom/homemade steel box to bounce the light up through a hole in the bottom of the old opaque projector stage - the stage is PERFECTLY sized for an overhead lcd panel, and even has a removable tray that holds my UV/IR glass and bottom fresnel.
So basically the light (bottom up MH bulb) is hanging down into the box. The light path goes backwards to a 45-degree mirror, gets bounced up through the hole to the glass sheets/fresnel/panel, hits another mirror above the panel (the original one from when it was an opaque projector), and gets directed forward out the kick-*** lens.
I also put in a secondary DC power supply from an old external SCSI hard drive box. It runs four sets of PC fans to cool the projector, and I used a PC fan controller with temperature sensors - lets me control all the fans individually, and keep an eye on the temperature in four parts of the PJ.
Almost everything is done, except I'm waiting for better fresnels to come in from the States. I tried one of those page magnifiers from Office Deport, it's crap, eats up too many lumens. Should have the new fresnels within a couple of weeks, I'll let you know how it goes. I'm also waiting for a condensor I bought from SurplusShed (GREAT source for parts if you don't mind U.S. shipping...). Figure the condensor should boost my lumen rating by 5 to 10 per cent by straightening out the primary light beam.
Anyway, I'm about 95% complete on the projector and it's an ugly BEAST. I call it the Luminator (bulb kicks out about 38,000 lumens and the PJ weighs about 30 pounds, but I actually like the retro-chic thing and don't care about it being compact, just about a good image). 😉
Built the whole thing VERY cheap, ballast and bulb cost me around $35 including shipping. My only worry is the arc gap is huge on those big MH bulbs, so I may have to retrofit an electronic ballast and HQI bulb. I'm trying to avoid that, becuase it would cost a couple of hundred bucks... 😉
Still, if I have to change the light source and go HQI, I could skip the lower mirror and put the light directly under the panel, aimed up. That would save me some wasted lumens that the first mirror is sucking up. But hopefully the huge MH bulb will work OK, it has tested well with the crappy fresnel so far...
Cheers,
IJ
Yeah, some opaques are crap, you have to look for a good one with good optics. One with a wide base, too, so you can mod it (don't go for a VuLite II, for example - too hard to modify the base).
I got a Beseler VuLite III - great lens, and like I said, it has a huge (over a square foot, although it's tapered) front-surface mirror and a long-travel focus mechanism already built in for the lens. The light used to shine down on the surface of a book (or whatever) and get bounced up to the lens, but I've done a major mod after totally gutting it and removing the original light.
Now the light chamber is walled off (with sheet steel) and houses the new MH ballast and mogul (from a high-bay warehouse light). I cut a hole in the bottom of the projector so a 400 watt MH bulb could poke down from the light chamber into a custom steel box I built. (the old projector chassis is now mounted on a box about a foot deep that runs the full length of the projector). Need the steel, because of heat - if the bulb blows, it can shoot 1,000-degree-Celcius quartz shards around at high speed, so you REALLY don't want to be using a wooden box... Basically the only flamable things in my PJ now are a couple of wires and the panel itself.
I mounted a mirror inside the custom/homemade steel box to bounce the light up through a hole in the bottom of the old opaque projector stage - the stage is PERFECTLY sized for an overhead lcd panel, and even has a removable tray that holds my UV/IR glass and bottom fresnel.
So basically the light (bottom up MH bulb) is hanging down into the box. The light path goes backwards to a 45-degree mirror, gets bounced up through the hole to the glass sheets/fresnel/panel, hits another mirror above the panel (the original one from when it was an opaque projector), and gets directed forward out the kick-*** lens.
I also put in a secondary DC power supply from an old external SCSI hard drive box. It runs four sets of PC fans to cool the projector, and I used a PC fan controller with temperature sensors - lets me control all the fans individually, and keep an eye on the temperature in four parts of the PJ.
Almost everything is done, except I'm waiting for better fresnels to come in from the States. I tried one of those page magnifiers from Office Deport, it's crap, eats up too many lumens. Should have the new fresnels within a couple of weeks, I'll let you know how it goes. I'm also waiting for a condensor I bought from SurplusShed (GREAT source for parts if you don't mind U.S. shipping...). Figure the condensor should boost my lumen rating by 5 to 10 per cent by straightening out the primary light beam.
Anyway, I'm about 95% complete on the projector and it's an ugly BEAST. I call it the Luminator (bulb kicks out about 38,000 lumens and the PJ weighs about 30 pounds, but I actually like the retro-chic thing and don't care about it being compact, just about a good image). 😉
Built the whole thing VERY cheap, ballast and bulb cost me around $35 including shipping. My only worry is the arc gap is huge on those big MH bulbs, so I may have to retrofit an electronic ballast and HQI bulb. I'm trying to avoid that, becuase it would cost a couple of hundred bucks... 😉
Still, if I have to change the light source and go HQI, I could skip the lower mirror and put the light directly under the panel, aimed up. That would save me some wasted lumens that the first mirror is sucking up. But hopefully the huge MH bulb will work OK, it has tested well with the crappy fresnel so far...
Cheers,
IJ
Nice🙂
Pics???
Old, BIGASS, Opaque projectors are a great source for the entire front part of an lcd projector.
Cheers,
Alex
Pics???
Old, BIGASS, Opaque projectors are a great source for the entire front part of an lcd projector.
Cheers,
Alex
Here are some shots as it stands right now (see photos). To get an idea of the size of the projector (the Lumenator) 😉 and the lens, that orange and black thing in front of it on the bench is a full-sized hand drill...
I kept the mechanics of the opaque projector's top-raising mechanism in place (MAJOR pain the butt to do this with a light bulb the size of a football installed and hanging down into the silver box below, but I managed it). You crank the lever and the whole black part of the chassis raises, exposing the tray. You stick the LCD panel and the tray with the fresnel/filter glass into the opening and lower the chassis back down, so I can swap glass or panels in under 20 seconds. Cool! 😉
I built the bottom sheet of the box so that it slides out. I can get in easily to clean the mirror, replace the bulb, etc.
The front of the PJ, that angled bit, is a simple plastic roof vent from Home Depot ($16). Two high-speed PC fans are mounted behind it, and the fan controller on the front is the thing I mentioned for controlling the speed of the fans and monitor 4 temperature zones (a readout of fan speed and temp. comes up on that LCD to the left of the dials). The vent means I can dampen noise and angle any leaked light down to the floor, while keeping airflow maximized.
Another dryer vent will go over the intake at the rear (see pic). The mesh thing mounted in it right now is a PC hard drive cooler with an air filter to minimize dust, forcing air into the light chamber. It's a drum fan, and it's mounted behind the mirror, so no light leaks out, but I'll put on the dryer vent cover to make it look cleaner and dampen the fan noise.
The big ballast, the mogul mount and the PC power supply are all in the black part of the chassis directly below the lens. Lots of room in there for a 10-pound ballast from a high-bay warehouse light plus the capacitor (just strip away the high-bay steel mount, easy).
Next time I have the bottom open, I'll take a shot for you. I used a stainless steel mixing bowl for the reflector - not quite completely eliptical, but close. Seems to work OK, and I'm kicking nearly 40,000 lumens from the bulb, as I said, so a little lost light due to an imperfect reflector isn't the end of the world. 😉
Right now the lower mirror is just a foot-square el-cheapo one from Home Depot, cost about $2. But at SurplusShed.com, they're selling the front-surface mirror from Beseler opaque projectors (big mirror, about a foot square but tapered), for $2.50 each (brand new, never opened, old stock from 1962). That's a STEAL. I bought 3, may order a few more in case of breakage. I'm going to use one to replace the lower mirror, and I'll also replace the upper mirror with a fresh one (it has a few scratches from being used for 40 years by a school...). 😉
Cheers,
IJ
I kept the mechanics of the opaque projector's top-raising mechanism in place (MAJOR pain the butt to do this with a light bulb the size of a football installed and hanging down into the silver box below, but I managed it). You crank the lever and the whole black part of the chassis raises, exposing the tray. You stick the LCD panel and the tray with the fresnel/filter glass into the opening and lower the chassis back down, so I can swap glass or panels in under 20 seconds. Cool! 😉
I built the bottom sheet of the box so that it slides out. I can get in easily to clean the mirror, replace the bulb, etc.
The front of the PJ, that angled bit, is a simple plastic roof vent from Home Depot ($16). Two high-speed PC fans are mounted behind it, and the fan controller on the front is the thing I mentioned for controlling the speed of the fans and monitor 4 temperature zones (a readout of fan speed and temp. comes up on that LCD to the left of the dials). The vent means I can dampen noise and angle any leaked light down to the floor, while keeping airflow maximized.
Another dryer vent will go over the intake at the rear (see pic). The mesh thing mounted in it right now is a PC hard drive cooler with an air filter to minimize dust, forcing air into the light chamber. It's a drum fan, and it's mounted behind the mirror, so no light leaks out, but I'll put on the dryer vent cover to make it look cleaner and dampen the fan noise.
The big ballast, the mogul mount and the PC power supply are all in the black part of the chassis directly below the lens. Lots of room in there for a 10-pound ballast from a high-bay warehouse light plus the capacitor (just strip away the high-bay steel mount, easy).
Next time I have the bottom open, I'll take a shot for you. I used a stainless steel mixing bowl for the reflector - not quite completely eliptical, but close. Seems to work OK, and I'm kicking nearly 40,000 lumens from the bulb, as I said, so a little lost light due to an imperfect reflector isn't the end of the world. 😉
Right now the lower mirror is just a foot-square el-cheapo one from Home Depot, cost about $2. But at SurplusShed.com, they're selling the front-surface mirror from Beseler opaque projectors (big mirror, about a foot square but tapered), for $2.50 each (brand new, never opened, old stock from 1962). That's a STEAL. I bought 3, may order a few more in case of breakage. I'm going to use one to replace the lower mirror, and I'll also replace the upper mirror with a fresh one (it has a few scratches from being used for 40 years by a school...). 😉
Cheers,
IJ
Attachments
Oops, it didn't take, trying again...
Like I said, to get an idea of the size of this puppy (HUGE), check out the drill on the bench for comparison. 😉
The lens is absolutely awesome, extremely high quality and very large, gathers a lot of light. (Hey, it was made to make a bright image from light bouncing OFF a book, so it handles light coming through an LCD panel with ease).
IJ
Like I said, to get an idea of the size of this puppy (HUGE), check out the drill on the bench for comparison. 😉
The lens is absolutely awesome, extremely high quality and very large, gathers a lot of light. (Hey, it was made to make a bright image from light bouncing OFF a book, so it handles light coming through an LCD panel with ease).
IJ
Attachments
reminds me of the Dalek from Dr Who! That is a big lens. nice setup.
Can you take a shot of the output?
Can you take a shot of the output?
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