I appreciate it, but to be honest, I'm not willing to pay more than 1 euro for each. It just seems like a steal to me. I'm not going to invest more in this board. I'm already decided. I'm going to ride a hybrid inside.
Just when I was going to offer you some ZVP3306A for free... . You will never know what you've missed. It is an old amp but after the mods (including the accurate idle current adjustment) it sings. I've quite happily used the modded A3i in my main system for over ten years.
Cheers
Alex
Cheers
Alex
Hello Alex and thank you very much. Really? Is the sound that good? Well, then it would be better to fix it and compare the sound with my hybrid. Then, how do we do?
PM me your address and I'll send you a few devices as a plain airmail letter. Shouldn't take long.
Cheers
Alex
Cheers
Alex
And you should have the FETs in a few days if Royal Mail does its job properly.
Cheers
Alex
Cheers
Alex
Hi @cucu70
I had repaired 4 those amps, and always desoldered ZVP wasn't recognized by universal tester, despite that they were fully working. Strange thing, new transistor just bought out of the box is fully reconized by the same universal tester, but those from amplifier desoldered - all of them recognised as diodes.
Tried to solder brand new in place of that desoldered - sound was the same, no difference, therefore soldered back the old one (unrecognized) - again all worked fine.
This is one of difficulties to diagnose this particular amp model among others...
For instance if you will do "bulb test" for fully working amp at "cold turn on", bulb test will fail as bulb will constantly glow on full intensity. But when I know that I fixed amp, I ignore bulb test, replacing bulb with fuse, turning, on, letting warm up for 15mins. Then on "warm turn on" bulb test works fine, shows bulb glow intersity dropping quickly as supposed. So for this amp model "bulb test" can't be performed or trusted.
I had repaired 4 those amps, and always desoldered ZVP wasn't recognized by universal tester, despite that they were fully working. Strange thing, new transistor just bought out of the box is fully reconized by the same universal tester, but those from amplifier desoldered - all of them recognised as diodes.
Tried to solder brand new in place of that desoldered - sound was the same, no difference, therefore soldered back the old one (unrecognized) - again all worked fine.
This is one of difficulties to diagnose this particular amp model among others...
For instance if you will do "bulb test" for fully working amp at "cold turn on", bulb test will fail as bulb will constantly glow on full intensity. But when I know that I fixed amp, I ignore bulb test, replacing bulb with fuse, turning, on, letting warm up for 15mins. Then on "warm turn on" bulb test works fine, shows bulb glow intersity dropping quickly as supposed. So for this amp model "bulb test" can't be performed or trusted.
Hello everybody. Mr. Alex sent me the replacement transistors, just as he said, and now I'm mounting them. I don't know why one of the C8/108 capacitors is a bit swollen. My question is, can I change them for 100u/16v but bipolar? I ask because I have them and I don't use them.
Yes, that should be no problem, possibly even an improvement if the bipolar cap is of a better quality.
Cheers
Alex
Cheers
Alex
Good afternoon & season’s greetings from a newbie to this forum.
My A3i has been playing up for a little while & gradually getting worse.
When the A3i is 1st switched on, I used to get a little “click” after a second or two & could play music thereafter, the duration between switching on & the little “click” & being able to hear music has been getting longer & longer, were into minutes now before I hear any output ?
Is this a known problem ?
I’ve read a lot of these posts, but haven’t seen this symptom, would this be a simple fix for someone with the right skills & equipment ?
Thanks for any input.
KTMKev.
My A3i has been playing up for a little while & gradually getting worse.
When the A3i is 1st switched on, I used to get a little “click” after a second or two & could play music thereafter, the duration between switching on & the little “click” & being able to hear music has been getting longer & longer, were into minutes now before I hear any output ?
Is this a known problem ?
I’ve read a lot of these posts, but haven’t seen this symptom, would this be a simple fix for someone with the right skills & equipment ?
Thanks for any input.
KTMKev.
before start the usual troubleshooting I would remove completely and very carefully all existing (and known) deficiencies, which unfortunately are very numerous, and which can cause a wide variety of error patterns.
The quality of the Chinese manufacturer's craftsmanship was unfortunately very poor (even in comparison to the A1/Atac 3, the predecessor of the model "A3i").