Can I use Caddock MP-930 (with heatsink) in the passive crossover?
What about parallel three Mills MRA-12 for target value?
What about parallel three Mills MRA-12 for target value?
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I don't see why not.
The MP-930 series of power film resistors is rated at 30 W, based on keeping the device's case temperature suitably low during use.
A TO-220 heatsink should be sufficient for use in the tweeter section of a domestic speaker system.
EDIT: I missed your edit!
The MP-930 series of power film resistors is rated at 30 W, based on keeping the device's case temperature suitably low during use.
A TO-220 heatsink should be sufficient for use in the tweeter section of a domestic speaker system.
EDIT: I missed your edit!
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Again, I don't see why not - apart from the cost.
However, why a target value of 36 W?
Where will such a high power resistor combination be situated in your crossover?
No particular reason. just thought 36w should have better power handling. it is for the tweeter section
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Forms also a very good "fuse" to prevent overloading the tweeter. I use it so without heatsink.
Since it has a 1.5 ohm 9w resistor in the crossover,
Which of the following is better?
Parallel 5 x 7.5 ohm 5w resistor for replacement
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/res5k070-kiwame-resistor-p-1620.html
OR
Single Mundorf 1.5 ohm 30w
https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/mund...resist-ultra-resistor-30w-15-ohm-p-16124.html
OR
2 x Mills MRA-12 3 ohm 12 in parallel?
https://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/ohm-mills-mra-12-p-657
OR Caddock MP-820, MP-925 or MP-930??
Which of the following is better?
Parallel 5 x 7.5 ohm 5w resistor for replacement
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/res5k070-kiwame-resistor-p-1620.html
OR
Single Mundorf 1.5 ohm 30w
https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/mund...resist-ultra-resistor-30w-15-ohm-p-16124.html
OR
2 x Mills MRA-12 3 ohm 12 in parallel?
https://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/ohm-mills-mra-12-p-657
OR Caddock MP-820, MP-925 or MP-930??
Depends on your maximum power target. In my case without any heatsink. Wilson Audio does the same but with some form of heatsink.
The Caddock are fairly durable resistors. They are derated from 70C on a heat sink. They are also cheaper than Mills 12 watt. For a heat sink you can even use a small piece of aluminum plate bolted to it.
Between Caddock MP-820, MP-920 and MP-930, which one would you prefer?
Some says 820 is better than 930 but lower power rating.
You do realise that only a fraction of the total music power supplied by the amplifier consists of high frequencies?
If 100 W were supplied flat out to the speaker system by the amplifier, the tweeter plus resistor would typically only receive around 20 W of high frequency power.
So, in a domestic speaker system a tweeter resistor need have no greater power handling than 20 W. Realistically, 10 W is quite sufficient since HF power is shared with the tweeter.
And then, when you consider that most domestic listening occurs at just a couple of watts of amplifier power... 😉
Any of them will be fine as they literally see much less than a watt most of the time. Even in peak conditions the power to the tweeter is less than ten or so watts of which only a fraction is absorbed by the resisto.
NS are non inductive. Since the values are so tiny, in a crossover either will be fine. If used in an amp circuit it depends on where in the circuit the resistor is.
If one is allowed to discuss subjective impressions here, the best crossover resistor I have ever heard is a piece of manganin wire. I have used the Caddock 930, Mills, Duelund, Vishay-Dale 1/4 watt in massive parallel bundles, and others. I bought fine gauge manganin and trimmed it to length. One advantage is cost, but a more important aspect is that one can trim the length until the exact value is achieved to provide optimum tweeter output level.
Cheaper than the Mills? Really? <clickety-click> mouser-mouser... Well, I'll be a dirty dog. Learn something every day.
Then you can also use the Mresist Ultra from Mundorf, TO format for heatsink mounting. Manganin foil resistors.
Clearly the simple wire is cheaper, but will get really hot if it dissipates any real power.
Tweeter does not require much power, and manganin has very low tempco. One big advantage of wire is adjustability. Once you buy one of those Mundorf Ultra's (which are VERY nice resistors, much better than Caddock), you're stuck with that value or buying another, and they ain't cheap.