Cables - what type for a fullrange

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@planet 10- I haven't taken the time to search jneutron's stuff (frankly, going through AA stuff makes me somewhat ill), but here's an equivalent explanation from Dr. David Rich and an anonymous reviewer. The critique starts on page 75 (pdf 67). Hawksford has not responded substantively to this criticism, either.

http://www.theaudiocritic.com/back_issues/The_Audio_Critic_24_r.pdf
 
LOL Audio Critic is on a mission against tweaks and tubes - why the bitter tone?

Yeah, never understood that tone at all. The technical content tended to be quite good, especially (sadly) the last few issues, but I'm not personally impressed with the mudslinging and name-calling.

Of course, I say that as a Man With Tubes.:D

Yeah, that looks like a classic jneutron decimation. Matter-of-fact and surgical.
 
Ok, (not wanting to start a fire here) but, we discuss about cables size and their influences on waves (sound) and stuff.... But you guys dont seem to consider in the same manner the cables and electronic parts in the amp throught the ground. Big size enought? How bout the wire size in the capacitor. Since cable often are bigger than the electronic components, would it be wise to check the influence of big fat wiring in the amp vs Sound instead of speaker cable \ size \ format?

Any hint?

Regards

Marc
 
I've often wondered the same thing. Why worry so much about how thick the cables you send your music through is when that same music has to go through traces on a circuit board, fuses on the speaker, etc? But maybe how much a wire influences sound is directly proportional to how long that wire is. So the foot or so of wiring the signal has to go through inside the amp would matter to a lesser degree than the 5-10 feet of interconnects you send them through before they get to the speaker.

I'm still pretty new at this stuff, but every article, message board discussion, and my personal experience all tell me the same thing: If your cables are reasonably thick, reasonably well built, reasonably well insulated and a reasonable length, you're good to go. I originally had my speakers wired up with really thin freebie cables that came with my cheapo home theater system. When I replaced them with 12 awg wires, the speakers definitely sounded louder. I had to turn the volume down a tick or two to get back to a comfortable listening level. Same thing happened when I replaced the ancient RCA cables I found at a thrift store with ones from Blue Jeans cable. It didn't really change the characteristics of the music, just the volume level.
 
Ok, (not wanting to start a fire here) but, we discuss about cables size and their influences on waves (sound) and stuff.... But you guys dont seem to consider in the same manner the cables and electronic parts in the amp throught the ground. Big size enought? How bout the wire size in the capacitor. Since cable often are bigger than the electronic components, would it be wise to check the influence of big fat wiring in the amp vs Sound instead of speaker cable \ size \ format?

Any hint?

Regards

Marc

Don't start, we already have a 250k post thread about cables. ! WE DO NOT NEED ANOTHER!!!
 
Of course, I say that as a Man With Tubes.:D

Eheheh 'mea culpa' eh SY?:cool: Who cares about the specs when tubes can sound better or at least more fun than transistors, right? But now someone might pick on that in your next objectivist´s arguement, or am I missing something?:D

BTW I built a version of this http://www2u.biglobe.ne.jp/~hu_amp/amput3e.htm and it´s the most timbrically correct amp I´ve listened to. Worth a try.
 
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Ok, (not wanting to start a fire here) but, we discuss about cables size and their influences on waves (sound) and stuff.... But you guys dont seem to consider in the same manner the cables and electronic parts in the amp throught the ground. Big size enought? How bout the wire size in the capacitor. Since cable often are bigger than the electronic components, would it be wise to check the influence of big fat wiring in the amp vs Sound instead of speaker cable \ size \ format?

Any hint?

Regards

Marc

You know jleaman´s reply may be harsh, but he´s right. Search a little and you´ll find several answers to your questions.
ANYWAY here´s my quick common-sense take on the subject:
I´m sure a good designer takes inductance in component´s leads and other related parasites into consideration. Those factors aren´t previewed in a drawn schematic I guess, thus subjected to further prototype tweaking. Maybe just a bit more negative feedback will take care of it.
SMTs don´t seem as compromised, but then there´s still the PCB copper tracks. But hey, they´re quite thin so at least they got the skin-effect problems covered.
Personally, I´m not too concerned about it and I´d take air-wiring over PCBs anyday.

Just consider an electronic device as a finished product whose output was measured and submitted to listening tests. Now connect it the best way you can and move on. :cool:
 
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You know jleaman´s reply may be harsh, but he´s right. Search a little and you´ll find several answers to your questions.
ANYWAY here´s my quick common-sense take on the subject:
I´m sure a good designer takes inductance in component´s leads and other related parasites into consideration. Those factors aren´t previewed in a drawn schematic I guess, thus subjected to further prototype tweaking. Maybe just a bit more negative feedback will take care of it.
SMTs don´t seem as compromised, but then there´s still the PCB copper tracks. But hey, they´re quite thin so at least they got the skin-effect problems covered.
Personally, I´m not too concerned about it and I´d take air-wiring over PCBs anyday.

Just consider an electronic device as a finished product whose output was measured and submitted to listening tests. Now connect it the best way you can and move on. :cool:

Thank's :)


It all comes down to the equipment, every ones system is different, there is not one system out there that is identical. Each wire is different each part is different they all have tolerances.

Buy / make what works, if not keep trying to make / buy to make it work.
 
It's no the math that's been dissed, but the interpretation.

quite true



jneutron has also dismantled it in a pretty clinical way on at least one or two online forums.

jneutron has only engaged in a publicity stunt/attention grab.

he would'nt be welcome in my lab -


There hasn't been any academic refutation because he hasn't been able to get the paper published in any peer-reviewed journal. I would love to see the referee comments (which probably go into this in the detail you'd like to see), but Hawksford has not made them public.

the 'peers' and 'referees', would not do so,


except for the same reasons as 'neutron'.











BTW, I'm probably a bit thick,


naw, yur aright

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
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Hi everybody,
I'm going to internally wiring my DIY speakers (Griffin's MLTL Alpair 10); I have at home some "scraps" of cables adequate to cover the short distance between the binding posts and the drivers. My idea is to make a cable with one 0,5mm pure silver solid core, one 0,5mm OCC copper solid core and one (or two) pieces of 1mm stranded OFC copper silver plated, for a total of 2mm or 3mm diameter. Maybe it could be useless than doing a more simple (and reasonable) cable but my question is: is there something wrong? I mean, using wires of different sizes may have some "capacitance-resistance-inductance" issues? Or may even cause a sort of "delay problem" due to an implicit (or hypothetical) difference in the electric signal transmission?
Please, can someone kindly give me a suggestion?
Thanks a lot and have a nice day,
Christian
 
Over a short internal run? Unless you do something madcap with the geometry, the electrons are unlikely to care less; not so you'd notice anyway. Just make sure your connections are good; connection losses are more likely to make a difference than your internal wire, providing it's of sufficient gauge (not difficult) & inductance & capacitance are within reasonable levels.
 
Thanks a lot!
All I'm thinking to do is just twist the 3 or 4 wires (all are teflon insulated) and solder them directly to the connectors of the drivers and to the binding posts (Markaudio entirely made of copper and gold plated).
Thanks again and have a nice day,
Christian
 
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