Hi rdowdall,
Can't you build it with the power supply on the same chassis?
If you must, look up industrial connectors and wire that will withstand both the voltage and current you are transferring. Once that has been done, look up industrial connectors that will also handle the voltages and current. Leave lots of head room with the ratings, and spacing the HT physically away from the low voltage wiring is a good idea. Lastly, the mating plug and socket should be locking.
You will find that you probably are not going to like the prices, be forewarned. I do wish you good luck in your quest.
-Chris
Can't you build it with the power supply on the same chassis?
If you must, look up industrial connectors and wire that will withstand both the voltage and current you are transferring. Once that has been done, look up industrial connectors that will also handle the voltages and current. Leave lots of head room with the ratings, and spacing the HT physically away from the low voltage wiring is a good idea. Lastly, the mating plug and socket should be locking.
You will find that you probably are not going to like the prices, be forewarned. I do wish you good luck in your quest.
-Chris
Hi Rayma,
Yes, absolutely. But rdowdall needs to be sure of what he is buying.
Hi rdowdall,
Why not make a list of possible plug and connectors, then you can look for these in surplus stores. Same for the wiring. Because this is a safety issue, please make certain you are using properly rated materials.
Now the good news. These connectors have been manufactured for decades. They are pretty standard, so your chances of finding what you need may be better than you think.
-Chris
Yes, absolutely. But rdowdall needs to be sure of what he is buying.
Hi rdowdall,
Why not make a list of possible plug and connectors, then you can look for these in surplus stores. Same for the wiring. Because this is a safety issue, please make certain you are using properly rated materials.
Now the good news. These connectors have been manufactured for decades. They are pretty standard, so your chances of finding what you need may be better than you think.
-Chris
Use only connectors that are specifically rated for more than sufficient voltage for your purpose.
If you are connecting with AC voltages, you may be able to use standard power connectors.
This plug/socket pair could connect the ends of two captive cables together for up to 250AC/20A.
The male plug goes on the amplifier cord, and the female socket goes on the power supply cord.
In this way, you cannot be shocked by unplugging the connectors while they are live.
http://www.stagelightingstore.com/H...HsMcA&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=products
http://www.stagelightingstore.com/Hubbell-Insulgrip-L6-20-Twistlock-Female-Connector-Black
If it is DC that you are connecting, that is even more risky business.
Last edited:
Hi rayma - I would need a rear panel mount to plug into.
This hardware looks like it would work: rated at 250v 12a
C016-30D006-100-12 Amphenol Tuchel Connector Buy @ PEI-Genesis C01630D00610012
This hardware looks like it would work: rated at 250v 12a
C016-30D006-100-12 Amphenol Tuchel Connector Buy @ PEI-Genesis C01630D00610012
Yup,very close on the current. It would work well for a limited amount of time.
Pick a connector that is rated at 5 amperes maybe. What the current rating does is tell you how great the temperature rise of the contacts will be. A 2 ampere rating means you will be running at the maximum heat level. Nothing likes heat, and that is what will eventually kill that connector pair and the ends of the wire.
You are on the right track though.
-Chris
Pick a connector that is rated at 5 amperes maybe. What the current rating does is tell you how great the temperature rise of the contacts will be. A 2 ampere rating means you will be running at the maximum heat level. Nothing likes heat, and that is what will eventually kill that connector pair and the ends of the wire.
You are on the right track though.
-Chris
That could work, and you can parallel the multiple circuits, but reliably attaching the crimp termination pins to the wires
can be a problem, since the connector specific crimp tool required is often expensive, as much as hundreds of dollars.
Sometimes the pins can be soldered instead of crimped, but some connector designs preclude this.
This application is for an AC connection, right?
Last edited:
Rayma - Yes, there will be two 135vac outputs from the power supply and two 7.5vac.
The secondaries of the main transformer will have 2 135vac for B+, and 2 7.5vac output for the driver tubes 12au7, I then have four other toroidals that output 9vac for tube heaters. Each mono block has 4 300b tubes. Each mono will require 5 pins (including ground). I thought I read that it has crimp pins or screw terminals. I can give them a call.
Possible they could direct me to someone that could make that cable
RD
The secondaries of the main transformer will have 2 135vac for B+, and 2 7.5vac output for the driver tubes 12au7, I then have four other toroidals that output 9vac for tube heaters. Each mono block has 4 300b tubes. Each mono will require 5 pins (including ground). I thought I read that it has crimp pins or screw terminals. I can give them a call.
Possible they could direct me to someone that could make that cable
RD
It appears to use crimp pins. If a solder connection style is available, that's the way to go. Check out the price
of the specific crimp tool, since some are not so much. For safety, it's essential for these crimps
to be done exactly right. I know Digikey makes up some custom cables.
Last edited:
One major gotcha to be very careful of with separate power supplies like that is that the DC return connection is now safety critical if 0V is connected to the chassis (You do not want the chassis floating up to B+ because the return path to the power supply has come adrift)....
Plenty of amateur radio types had near misses from this one, and a few have died.
I would advocate looping an 'interlock' circuit thru your cable so the HT rail will not come up unless the plugs are mated, also plugs with mate first/break last contacts for the safety earth and ground are a good thing).
Regards, Dan.
Plenty of amateur radio types had near misses from this one, and a few have died.
I would advocate looping an 'interlock' circuit thru your cable so the HT rail will not come up unless the plugs are mated, also plugs with mate first/break last contacts for the safety earth and ground are a good thing).
Regards, Dan.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.