The cabinets will both be so small that standing waves etc are basically a non-issue.
30L will require more power to hit a given SPL, but both will ultimately be limited by the excursion capability of the driver.
The 30L will probably require a little eq to get sounding nice, but the lower Q of the 70L should give better results from the off.
IMO, you're going to need some eq to tame the 50Hz peak, so if you're playing with eq anyway, seems sensible to go for the smaller cabinet.
I'd advise Googling about the iNuke fans.
If it were mine, I'd add a couple of ohms in series so they run slower, and put a bypass switch across the resistor to bring the fans up to speed when the party starts 😉
Chris
30L will require more power to hit a given SPL, but both will ultimately be limited by the excursion capability of the driver.
The 30L will probably require a little eq to get sounding nice, but the lower Q of the 70L should give better results from the off.
IMO, you're going to need some eq to tame the 50Hz peak, so if you're playing with eq anyway, seems sensible to go for the smaller cabinet.
I'd advise Googling about the iNuke fans.
If it were mine, I'd add a couple of ohms in series so they run slower, and put a bypass switch across the resistor to bring the fans up to speed when the party starts 😉
Chris
Don't underestimate old people, especially not when they're your parents.
Dad came up with the brilliant idea to use my current subwoofer cabinets for the LAB12. They're about 40-45l internal volume, built of 22mm particle board. Right now they host 10" woofers but the plan is to remove them, drill a new hole for the 12" on the sides (the LAB12 wont fit on the original baffles) and then cut a new piece of particle board to put over the old baffle. And when I have two big holes in the box I'll take the opportunity to add some bracing as well (I guess it's needed?).
The shipping proved to be a bit slower than expected. The subs left Gothenburg this morning so that means another ~850km to travel before I get them.
Dad came up with the brilliant idea to use my current subwoofer cabinets for the LAB12. They're about 40-45l internal volume, built of 22mm particle board. Right now they host 10" woofers but the plan is to remove them, drill a new hole for the 12" on the sides (the LAB12 wont fit on the original baffles) and then cut a new piece of particle board to put over the old baffle. And when I have two big holes in the box I'll take the opportunity to add some bracing as well (I guess it's needed?).
The shipping proved to be a bit slower than expected. The subs left Gothenburg this morning so that means another ~850km to travel before I get them.
Got the subs today. Later than expected 🙁
They are in a nice condition. Tested hooking them up free-air without XO and it seemed promising. I will start with the cabinets tomorrow and hopefully have it up and running tomorrow evening.
They are in a nice condition. Tested hooking them up free-air without XO and it seemed promising. I will start with the cabinets tomorrow and hopefully have it up and running tomorrow evening.
Wahey, better late than never, eh?
Pictures would be welcomed.
With regards to your current cabinets - I'd consider bracing mandatory. I'd expect the walls to flex quite a lot without some bracing, losing considerable energy.
Chris
Pictures would be welcomed.
With regards to your current cabinets - I'd consider bracing mandatory. I'd expect the walls to flex quite a lot without some bracing, losing considerable energy.
Chris
Here's an album Eminence LAB12 - Imgur
I'll see what I can do about bracing. I have decided to just make the old hole a bit bigger instead of cutting a new hole on the side. The LAB12 should fit on the original baffle, hopefully.
Out of these two bracing techniques, which would you recommend?
or
I'll see what I can do about bracing. I have decided to just make the old hole a bit bigger instead of cutting a new hole on the side. The LAB12 should fit on the original baffle, hopefully.
Out of these two bracing techniques, which would you recommend?
or
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Alright. The lower alternative shouldn't be that difficult to do. Just need to find some material to use.
Do you think this will be sufficient to brace with? The glove is a standard size winter glove for size comparison.
I have made the drivers holes a larger to accomodate the new drivers. Took a bit longer than expected but eventually I got it right.
I also noticed that I didn't seal all corners from the inside before so I'll have to finish that as well.
I used the stick in the picture in post #28 for bracing. I cut it into pieces with 45 degree angles on both ends. I think I got to five or six pieces per cabinet.
I'm also missing one of the sealing gaskets for the drivers. I have sent a message to the guy I bought them from. I guess he forgot to send me both.
I also noticed that I didn't seal all corners from the inside before so I'll have to finish that as well.
I used the stick in the picture in post #28 for bracing. I cut it into pieces with 45 degree angles on both ends. I think I got to five or six pieces per cabinet.
I'm also missing one of the sealing gaskets for the drivers. I have sent a message to the guy I bought them from. I guess he forgot to send me both.
Just tested the drivers in the boxes. My room was more "alive" than I had thought. Stuff vibrating everywhere and the subs still had a lot more to give.
Pretty impressive though how they actually pressed themselfes out of the cabinets a little to let out air when playing loud. I mean, the drivers are heavy as iron and yet I could hear air coming out. I really need some sealing gaskets and good screws to hold these beasts in place!
I hit about 108dB in listening position when playing some bass-heavy dubstep song. Pretty good.
Pretty impressive though how they actually pressed themselfes out of the cabinets a little to let out air when playing loud. I mean, the drivers are heavy as iron and yet I could hear air coming out. I really need some sealing gaskets and good screws to hold these beasts in place!
I hit about 108dB in listening position when playing some bass-heavy dubstep song. Pretty good.
Adhesive backed weatherstrip foam can be used for the gasket (which the seller probably won't have and would take a month to get if he did).
That is thicker than necessary, make sure you use even torque on all the fasteners, and set them a bit at a time, making several passes on each of the 8 as you increase torque a little each time around the circle.
Alright, I'll try to find something thinner tomorrow.
Haven't gotten to that yet. What would you recommend?
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