Cabinet material Measurement

Hi i promise last one and depending on the answer i will move away 🙂
if the more critical applications for vibrations/resonances control is the bass reproduction would it be wise to follow the design and construction principles for a subwoofer cabinet also for a full range speaker box ? 🤔
if so the next issue would be to spot the best executions If so i will start to read about subwoofers
I was looking to a Rel subs ...

The enclosure is a stout one with a 1 ¼” thick front baffle as well as the top panel. The side panels are ¾” thick and there is a ¾” thick brace that reinforces the midsection of the sub as well as supporting the driver motor.
not a big deal to me And most of its weight should come from the driver and the amplifier on-board
Still it has been very well reviewed
 
i still have not understood if all the sides of a cabinet are equally important for resonances I thought naively that front baffle was the more critical
But in all the measurements i have seen (i.e. mostly in Stereophile magazine) they place accelerometers practically everywhere but the front baffle
Never Then i see brands like Avalon that has used even 4.5" thick baffles and other side around 1" And i get even more confused
Until the baffle gets large WRT the driver, the driver sufficiently stiffens the baffle and even more so if a 'U' brace clamp or other form of mass loading the driver to it is used.
 
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The driver directs a significant amount of the vibration mechanically through it's basket to the front panel and the box. It's easy to assume that most of the energy gets transmitted through the air, making the larger panels the bigger radiators.
 
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Just correcting/clarifying what I said in the second sentence of the last post... It's easy to assume, but it isn't always the worst problem. Sometimes tests ignore the point I mentioned in the first sentence.

Still, as GM adds it is a good thing to tie the walls together. I'm suggesting it is also good to watch the driver mounting and to use CLD.
 
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Thanks. If I understand correctly, it is the vibrations of the basket that mostly affect the result?
I have seen your construction with supporting the basket inside the box.
That should reduce the vibrations to the front.
 
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Is it possible to reduce the vibrations of the basket by reinforcing it?
That's damping for the 'ringing' of cheaply constructed drivers. You want to reinforce a cheap basket, then epoxy steel rods to the frame legs and a circular steel plate on the backside of the flange and tap it for driver machine screw hardware mounting, though personally used any this bad for skeet practice. 😉
 
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If you reinforce it you may push it to a higher frequency. The link appears to be about damping which is worth trying.
It appears that the resonances spread from the basket and can become self-oscillating. Especially in a molded basket.
A plastic basket is better for that purpose. It creates smaller resonators. So some advantage of plastic basket exists.
 
That's damping for the 'ringing' of cheaply constructed drivers. You want to reinforce a cheap basket, then epoxy steel rods to the frame legs and a circular steel plate on the backside of the flange and tap it for driver machine screw hardware mounting, though personally used any this bad for skeet practice. 😉
According to the text on that page from Sweden, even expensive drivers need to be reinforced. Has nothing to do with the price.
Self-oscillations that create resonances disturb the result. They use soft clay. 🙂
 
According to the text on that page from Sweden, even expensive drivers need to be reinforced. Has nothing to do with the price.
Self-oscillations that create resonances disturb the result. They use soft clay.
No argument from me when it comes to foreign made drivers, but then I've mostly dealt with American made cinema/prosound drivers built to 'take a lick'n and keep on tick'n' 😉, though their later consumer products (partially built) I was exposed to didn't require any damping/reinforcing either, though like any speaker assembly it will benefit from mass loading, i.e. make it one with the cab or completely isolate it from the box like the pioneers originally did.
 
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