I have the parameters in WinISD, just no idea what I'm doing. Cabinet size changes the slope a little. Does WinISD design the box for you or just the volume?
The Radian 850pb can hit 500Hz, so with a 400Hz horn I reckon lowest I can cross is about 800Hz (just guessing no maths done yet and a 400Hz JMLC horn is perhaps too big for my lathe)
As for bass extension, I have been living very happily with my Alpair 7.3, 4" full range drivers in small bookshelf speakers, big room though, and the 10.3's will help with hitting the lower notes.
With the miniDSP 2x8 I can set presets, so I can have it crossed at 100Hz for the full rangers and a turn of a knob at 800Hz for the compression drivers. (Maybe a movie setting too as its terrifying watching full range drivers to a loud lighting strike or thunder roll in a film)
If I get my actual work done I may start tomorrow, as I can't focus on much else!
The Radian 850pb can hit 500Hz, so with a 400Hz horn I reckon lowest I can cross is about 800Hz (just guessing no maths done yet and a 400Hz JMLC horn is perhaps too big for my lathe)
As for bass extension, I have been living very happily with my Alpair 7.3, 4" full range drivers in small bookshelf speakers, big room though, and the 10.3's will help with hitting the lower notes.
With the miniDSP 2x8 I can set presets, so I can have it crossed at 100Hz for the full rangers and a turn of a knob at 800Hz for the compression drivers. (Maybe a movie setting too as its terrifying watching full range drivers to a loud lighting strike or thunder roll in a film)
If I get my actual work done I may start tomorrow, as I can't focus on much else!
WinISD just does the volume. So, if you roughly know what you want your speaker design to look like, you can use that volume and then add a port and mess with the port tuning. Box dimensions aren't that important (unless you're designing a TL). Box shape and baffle dimensions are important.
Box shape can reduce internal reflections if you have an angled rear wall or odd shaped rear wall, and your baffle dims determine your baffle step frequency. Not as important with a DSP since you can just EQ it out, but still nice to know its there. Also keep an eye on your woofer-comp driver center 2 center spacing, and your woofer-comp driver depth spacing.
Center to Center spacing?
Driver depth can be compensated with a time delay in your DSP.
I rear mounted with short screws for my test setup. For the real enclosure i'd probably do more of a retaining ring setup.
Have fun!
Box shape can reduce internal reflections if you have an angled rear wall or odd shaped rear wall, and your baffle dims determine your baffle step frequency. Not as important with a DSP since you can just EQ it out, but still nice to know its there. Also keep an eye on your woofer-comp driver center 2 center spacing, and your woofer-comp driver depth spacing.
Center to Center spacing?
Driver depth can be compensated with a time delay in your DSP.
I rear mounted with short screws for my test setup. For the real enclosure i'd probably do more of a retaining ring setup.
Have fun!
Ok, i'll join the mailing club. Cheers.
Making the cabinets is the thing I hate most about loudspeaker design, so if your offering then yes please 🙂
Do you want some measurements done? I have an idea that should produce some very clean measurements down to quite low frequencies without having to splice a near-field to far-field. I haven't tried it yet but i'm pretty confident it will work.
Making the cabinets is the thing I hate most about loudspeaker design, so if your offering then yes please 🙂
Do you want some measurements done? I have an idea that should produce some very clean measurements down to quite low frequencies without having to splice a near-field to far-field. I haven't tried it yet but i'm pretty confident it will work.
Whats your cabinet idea? I'm pretty set on curved, and these will eventually be clad in LG Hi-Macs so no paint finish needed and strong and inert.
That's a good question. I have a lot of sketches. That SEOS horn makes the design kind of tough, proportion-wise. Maybe i'll sketch my favorite up tonite and post it. It will definitely be curvy and definitely veneer'd.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Ignore the horn, this is interchangable, but this is the vein i'm going for, curved side, solid wood baffle, imitating the B&W 800 serires.
Send/post me some sketches
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I like this arrangement, not sure if its the best sonically?
I had to Google "LG Hi-Macs" because i've never heard of it before. I bet that stuff is expensive.
To be honest, I was just going to build a boring rectangular box but it would be great to have a curved design like the B&W 800 series. I'd like my box to have high WAF, so i'd like it to be as narrow as possible.
Also, I will be using my own horn design for the tweeter (9 1/2" round guide made of fibreglass). There's a chance it may not sound good though, so i'd like either have a removable front baffle or if not, i'd just have to fix a new baffle on top of the old one
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Wanna commission some wooden waveguides?
The Hi-Macs is £275 a sheet 12mm thick 2.4m x 750mm, finding out how much the 6mm is. Check out thermoforming, turns soft as rubber under heat.
It is an expensive finish, but for more commercial purposes in the future is perfect, and requires no extra finish (professional spray painting etc which isn't cheap either).
Idea would be to wrap this around a plywood skin, would be easy enough to reproduce another, and I may have to do the thermoformed version at a later date anyhow.
The Hi-Macs is £275 a sheet 12mm thick 2.4m x 750mm, finding out how much the 6mm is. Check out thermoforming, turns soft as rubber under heat.
It is an expensive finish, but for more commercial purposes in the future is perfect, and requires no extra finish (professional spray painting etc which isn't cheap either).
Idea would be to wrap this around a plywood skin, would be easy enough to reproduce another, and I may have to do the thermoformed version at a later date anyhow.
You must have monster lathe if you can turn a horn like that! I'm jealous. I think i'm leaning with you though on the discrete upper horn. More of a classic look.
I noticed you (studioAU) are also a maker of fine furniture. Is that your profession, or hobby? I also make fine furniture as a hobby. I'm messing around with bent laminations for another speaker design, but for this one i'm going to keep it a little simpler.
There's also some cool plywood that might suit your design: http://www.kerfkore.com/econokore.html
I was contemplating using this stuff and filling the post-bent voids w/epoxy and using a veneer on the outside.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I noticed you (studioAU) are also a maker of fine furniture. Is that your profession, or hobby? I also make fine furniture as a hobby. I'm messing around with bent laminations for another speaker design, but for this one i'm going to keep it a little simpler.
There's also some cool plywood that might suit your design: http://www.kerfkore.com/econokore.html
I was contemplating using this stuff and filling the post-bent voids w/epoxy and using a veneer on the outside.
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Maybe, but I think the sensible thing to do, is to attach the tweeter to the prototype i've made and take some measurements. I could then post the measurements on diyaudio to see what everyone thinks (assuming they're worth posting).
I would have prefered an elliptical shape to keep the driver centre-to-centre distances as close as possible but didn't know how to make one.
I chose a 65L cabinet volume. Port tuning is around 35hz I believe. Wife was on the PC til late so no pretty cad or winisd plots til tomorrow.
first stab
They're OK. I still think the proportions are off a bit. Needs some more tweaking, and maybe a curve or 2 to break up all those angles. Maybe a little too drastic design for my room too. Might tone it down a notch. Will see where it takes me.
They're OK. I still think the proportions are off a bit. Needs some more tweaking, and maybe a curve or 2 to break up all those angles. Maybe a little too drastic design for my room too. Might tone it down a notch. Will see where it takes me.
Hello, yeah I work as a cabinet maker.
Louis-James Eastman { bespoke fine furniture } About is my cabinet maker website, hasn't been updated is quite a while, I keep on forgetting to take pictures of finished pieces. The idea is to set up Studio Au (AU/Au = 'gold') as a commercial enterprise in the near future and do custom bespoke speaker builds as a sideline.
Ive just built a curved prototype, will try and snap some pictures later, it was so easy (with the CNC cutting out the ribs) and covered in bendy ply.
Swaying towards making two square cabinets from MDF to start, and then ply/curved.
Now 65l-100l what to choose for sealed?
Your design reminds me a little of these
Louis-James Eastman { bespoke fine furniture } About is my cabinet maker website, hasn't been updated is quite a while, I keep on forgetting to take pictures of finished pieces. The idea is to set up Studio Au (AU/Au = 'gold') as a commercial enterprise in the near future and do custom bespoke speaker builds as a sideline.
Ive just built a curved prototype, will try and snap some pictures later, it was so easy (with the CNC cutting out the ribs) and covered in bendy ply.
Swaying towards making two square cabinets from MDF to start, and then ply/curved.
Now 65l-100l what to choose for sealed?
Your design reminds me a little of these
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I do really like the Davone speakers. Very elegant design with the bent ply. I think my design is still too top heavy. I may reduce the bottom front slope and add a slope on the top backside to reduce some heft on the top. Again, its the problem with that horn shape in that it forces the top width. I may need to embrace the width rather than fight it. Still much tinkering to do, but that's all fun stuff.
As for the sealed box, I think the optimal was 90, but i didn't see much change as you step lower. Also keep in mind, if you add stuffing to the box, you get to assume ~20% increase in volume (or so). So, an adequately stuffed 70-80L box gets you right around 90ish. The 65L ported box tuned to 30-35 Hz can get you bass extension to -6dB to ~25Hz if i remember (props to Helmuth for helping me). You do potentially sacrifice some midrange control in the ported. I still need to try plugging my ports and running a sealed box to see if it makes a difference, other than losing some low end. I'll mess w/that this weekend and let you know.
As for the sealed box, I think the optimal was 90, but i didn't see much change as you step lower. Also keep in mind, if you add stuffing to the box, you get to assume ~20% increase in volume (or so). So, an adequately stuffed 70-80L box gets you right around 90ish. The 65L ported box tuned to 30-35 Hz can get you bass extension to -6dB to ~25Hz if i remember (props to Helmuth for helping me). You do potentially sacrifice some midrange control in the ported. I still need to try plugging my ports and running a sealed box to see if it makes a difference, other than losing some low end. I'll mess w/that this weekend and let you know.
That top wide horn does throw up some aesthetic problems.
Ive looked at a lot of speakers, and your eye is always naturally draw to the top driver.
I'd be inclined to try it the other way around with a large base and getting narrower towards the top, and have the horn in its own box with a spiked seperation, would end up looking rather like the old style pics above...
Ive looked at a lot of speakers, and your eye is always naturally draw to the top driver.
I'd be inclined to try it the other way around with a large base and getting narrower towards the top, and have the horn in its own box with a spiked seperation, would end up looking rather like the old style pics above...
