Dear musical friends.
I like to built a nice and simple cabinet for my beautifull full range drivers of Audio Nirvana.
The Super 10 Alnico.
Proposal to put them in 160 liter with 2 bass ports.
REMARKS:
MATERIAL CABINET 18mm BLACK AND STANDARD MDF.
SIDE PANELS 19mm SOLID BEECH WOOD.
BRACINGS 44x27 SPRUCE WOOD.
PRITEX 42mm DAMPING GLEU TO ALL INNER PANELS EXCEPT BAFFLE.
TECHNICAL DATA:
Driver: Full Range from Audio Nirvana type Super 10 Alnico.
Volume cabinet: 160 liter.
Sensitivity: 92.86 dB/W(m).
BR port (2x) 70mm diam. x 80mm length.
BR tuning @ 33 Hz.
Frequency range: 35Hz - 20kHz (-3dB).
Impedance: 8Ohm.
Rated power 30 Watt.
Music power 45 Watt.
I like to built a nice and simple cabinet for my beautifull full range drivers of Audio Nirvana.
The Super 10 Alnico.
Proposal to put them in 160 liter with 2 bass ports.
REMARKS:
MATERIAL CABINET 18mm BLACK AND STANDARD MDF.
SIDE PANELS 19mm SOLID BEECH WOOD.
BRACINGS 44x27 SPRUCE WOOD.
PRITEX 42mm DAMPING GLEU TO ALL INNER PANELS EXCEPT BAFFLE.
TECHNICAL DATA:
Driver: Full Range from Audio Nirvana type Super 10 Alnico.
Volume cabinet: 160 liter.
Sensitivity: 92.86 dB/W(m).
BR port (2x) 70mm diam. x 80mm length.
BR tuning @ 33 Hz.
Frequency range: 35Hz - 20kHz (-3dB).
Impedance: 8Ohm.
Rated power 30 Watt.
Music power 45 Watt.
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Assembly Super 10 Alnico big 1.jpg91.8 KB · Views: 170
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Your calculations on the supplied driver info fit, but i would damp the ports a bit at least to reduce the bump of the bass (make it more aperiodic) with some felt stuffing. It will be a bit a "one note bass" cabinet otherwise.
Better would be to make it a lot larger. A 250L cabinet with 2 ports of 8cm diameter and 8cm long would make the response a lot better, and the tuning a bit lower...
This is off course if the specs are right. AN is known to have big variations in specs so i would first measure them before you start the build.
The way you construct the cabinet is good in general, but don't use that foam for lining, felt, polyfill sheets, or even just layers of old jeans (total at least 1cm thick) do it a lot better.
It would also be good to support the ports with a piece of wood at the end of it (on the inside) so they don't vibrate that much.
Better would be to make it a lot larger. A 250L cabinet with 2 ports of 8cm diameter and 8cm long would make the response a lot better, and the tuning a bit lower...
This is off course if the specs are right. AN is known to have big variations in specs so i would first measure them before you start the build.
The way you construct the cabinet is good in general, but don't use that foam for lining, felt, polyfill sheets, or even just layers of old jeans (total at least 1cm thick) do it a lot better.
It would also be good to support the ports with a piece of wood at the end of it (on the inside) so they don't vibrate that much.
Thx Waxx for your reply.
I know that how bigger the cabinet the better the bass will be.
But the cabinet then will be to big haha.
I'll be experimenting with extra damping in the cabinet and ports.
They say that 42mm Pritex is the best damping material for BR cabinets.
I've good experience with it in combination with Long Hair Wool.
I know that how bigger the cabinet the better the bass will be.
But the cabinet then will be to big haha.
I'll be experimenting with extra damping in the cabinet and ports.
They say that 42mm Pritex is the best damping material for BR cabinets.
I've good experience with it in combination with Long Hair Wool.
Pritex is not that good, it does not damp that much. That kind of foam was used for a long time but felt or Polyfill sheets are way more effective. I tested a lot over the years that i build speakers and 10mm felt is way more effective. And most here will agree. The wool is good as stuffing material in sealed or TL cabinets, but not really usefull in most reflex designs. But you can use it to stuff the ports from the back to dampen the bass bump in the response.
I use felt for most of my builds now, something like this:https://www.heatshieldings.com/nl/19m2-12mm-akoestisch-vilt-zelfklevend.html It's also used a lot in cars to dampen mechanic sounds from the engine to the cabine, and it's very effective in damping.
I use felt for most of my builds now, something like this:https://www.heatshieldings.com/nl/19m2-12mm-akoestisch-vilt-zelfklevend.html It's also used a lot in cars to dampen mechanic sounds from the engine to the cabine, and it's very effective in damping.
Hi Waxx thx for your good advice.
I will use the Pritex again also for this project.
Extra bracing for the BR pipes at the end is a little bit overkill.
If you are affraid that these short ports are vribrating you can add some self adhesive lead outsite half way / end of the ports.
Bigger and longer ports you have to brace sufficient, I have good expirience with that.
I will use the Pritex again also for this project.
Extra bracing for the BR pipes at the end is a little bit overkill.
If you are affraid that these short ports are vribrating you can add some self adhesive lead outsite half way / end of the ports.
Bigger and longer ports you have to brace sufficient, I have good expirience with that.
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Yes the original concept from Fostex.
You can add one if you like.
I sold the set long time ago 🙂.
Very nice driver for the cabinet.
You can add one if you like.
I sold the set long time ago 🙂.
Very nice driver for the cabinet.
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The SEAS X1-04 EXOTIC F8 will perform much better than the Super 10 Alnico I think.
Easy to test with an adapter plate that will fit for this driver and a little bit longer bass ports.
Easy to test with an adapter plate that will fit for this driver and a little bit longer bass ports.
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And starting to built the universal cabinet.
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Here with the SEAS Exotic driver.
Simulation is very smooth.
Nice driver.
Simulation is very smooth.
Nice driver.
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Hi Waxx, here the Super 10 Alnicos into 350 liter each.Your calculations on the supplied driver info fit, but i would damp the ports a bit at least to reduce the bump of the bass (make it more aperiodic) with some felt stuffing. It will be a bit a "one note bass" cabinet otherwise.
Better would be to make it a lot larger. A 250L cabinet with 2 ports of 8cm diameter and 8cm long would make the response a lot better, and the tuning a bit lower...
View attachment 1133351
This is off course if the specs are right. AN is known to have big variations in specs so i would first measure them before you start the build.
The way you construct the cabinet is good in general, but don't use that foam for lining, felt, polyfill sheets, or even just layers of old jeans (total at least 1cm thick) do it a lot better.
It would also be good to support the ports with a piece of wood at the end of it (on the inside) so they don't vibrate that much.
Looks good I think.
These drivers will fit into my future project "Project-X" that I like to built some time.
Cabinets are approx. 350 liter each.
25Hz @ -3dB.
B.R. tuning 28 Hz.
Cabinet suitable for several drivers and bass ports.
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Some progress for the cabinets 🙂.
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The real Pritex is the best you can use for bass reflex cabinets. You cannot buy it in the DIY shop.Pritex is not that good, it does not damp that much. That kind of foam was used for a long time but felt or Polyfill sheets are way more effective. I tested a lot over the years that i build speakers and 10mm felt is way more effective. And most here will agree. The wool is good as stuffing material in sealed or TL cabinets, but not really usefull in most reflex designs. But you can use it to stuff the ports from the back to dampen the bass bump in the response.
I use felt for most of my builds now, something like this:https://www.heatshieldings.com/nl/19m2-12mm-akoestisch-vilt-zelfklevend.html It's also used a lot in cars to dampen mechanic sounds from the engine to the cabine, and it's very effective in damping.
Progress.
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And the side panels on it.
Oversized, which is nice for the copy mill.
Panels also slightly warped which also helps me to exert pressure in the middle of the panels.
He's fine.
Become sturdy heavy boxes again 😍😍.
Oversized, which is nice for the copy mill.
Panels also slightly warped which also helps me to exert pressure in the middle of the panels.
He's fine.
Become sturdy heavy boxes again 😍😍.
Attachments
And a big step further.
Almost ready for a test drive 🙂 .
Some damping material on the top en left side panels and then they can play 🙂 .
After that I can finetune / sanding and painting the cabinets.
Almost ready for a test drive 🙂 .
Some damping material on the top en left side panels and then they can play 🙂 .
After that I can finetune / sanding and painting the cabinets.
Attachments
And they are playing in the test phase!
Yes! That sounds not bad at all 🙂.
Goes nice and deep without one note bass.
I am very happy with the results.
For now I like to join some listening hours and test them.
Later I will disassemble the drivers and finishing the cabinets by fine sanding and paint them.
Yes! That sounds not bad at all 🙂.
Goes nice and deep without one note bass.
I am very happy with the results.
For now I like to join some listening hours and test them.
Later I will disassemble the drivers and finishing the cabinets by fine sanding and paint them.
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Yes!!! And the first layer of paint after fine sanding today! 😍
Tomorrow second one after fine sanding again.
Tomorrow second one after fine sanding again.
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Hmm, it would be interesting to see how it fares with equivalent Owens-Corning products which can be bought locally by DIYers.The real Pritex is the best you can use for bass reflex cabinets. You cannot buy it in the DIY shop.
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