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Me too, heres a bit of wardrobe in my car.😀
Me too, heres a bit of wardrobe in my car.😀
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Ooops
Sorry, that was big, anways, I Had to make a square port, and roughed the hole with my jigsaw. Never again, couldn't cut free hand, a straight line. I should have used a Fence, but I didn't expect it to be any good. I made it for my son, the driver, (10") was a freebie, and it was supposed to go on his PC. I tried it in the car and was so impressed with the noise it made, its stayed there.
To fill the dodgy hole cut, I used PVA and sawdust. Just needs a sand, and paint.
Cheers Mike 😀
Sorry, that was big, anways, I Had to make a square port, and roughed the hole with my jigsaw. Never again, couldn't cut free hand, a straight line. I should have used a Fence, but I didn't expect it to be any good. I made it for my son, the driver, (10") was a freebie, and it was supposed to go on his PC. I tried it in the car and was so impressed with the noise it made, its stayed there.
To fill the dodgy hole cut, I used PVA and sawdust. Just needs a sand, and paint.
Cheers Mike 😀
yes sure the guy runs it will give help as well if u post ask is this okay or what ever 🙂
only bad thing they US so there wood mdf is 19mm just so u remember
http://www.subwoofertools.com/forum/ported-box.asp
perfect for car building subs on slot anyway
shame there aint types of programs like this for loud speaker making and sub round port
just nice and simple easy to get what you want and know how it all goes together
only bad thing they US so there wood mdf is 19mm just so u remember
http://www.subwoofertools.com/forum/ported-box.asp
perfect for car building subs on slot anyway
shame there aint types of programs like this for loud speaker making and sub round port
just nice and simple easy to get what you want and know how it all goes together
larksp said:
yep, I used it in my massive sub and it is accurate. although the port area is derived from cone area and excursion, it still makes port noise.
yer im sure it does but for the starter is is a really easy guide to getting a nice box
my port noise is ok just the bracing i should have added
cos some of the sides vibrate 🙂
my port noise is ok just the bracing i should have added
cos some of the sides vibrate 🙂
if you know of a speaker box program from 2 and 3 way
like this in the sense of tells you all the wood you know and how it goes together by the picture would be great
some of the programs i look at told me like the few details like
11cf
1 driver
vent size
so i worried at don't i tune a tweeter in or just add one in..
and not much more... because im beginner i would like something that tells me all the wood sizes where the port.
my self would like a port of the front.
i know kind of goes into loud speaker than subwoofer but under same topic as building.
looked at some of the kits that give designs but looks liek there all over the place and
and for me dont use some of the drivers i would like to try my self
like this in the sense of tells you all the wood you know and how it goes together by the picture would be great
some of the programs i look at told me like the few details like
11cf
1 driver
vent size
so i worried at don't i tune a tweeter in or just add one in..
and not much more... because im beginner i would like something that tells me all the wood sizes where the port.
my self would like a port of the front.
i know kind of goes into loud speaker than subwoofer but under same topic as building.
looked at some of the kits that give designs but looks liek there all over the place and
and for me dont use some of the drivers i would like to try my self
See my post, Box size?
I've tried to ask if there is a rule to the size of a box. Asfar as I know, the box is for the woofer alone. Once thats designed, the mid, and or tweeter is added after. When the rest of the drivers are factored in, is all about maths and crossovers. Aparrently it gets better if you go active.
http://sound.westhost.com/articles.htm
http://sound.westhost.com/biamp-vs-passive.htm
http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisd
You may need to cross over to the Loudspeakers section on this site to look at the other Forums.
I tried the calculator on that site, but it asksfor xmax driver displacement and Net box volume, which I don't have.
This is the T/S parameters that I measured for the Longmill
Re = 3.6 ohms
Zmax =50.3 ohms
Fs = 27Hz
Qms = 4.3690
Qes = 0.3368
Qts = 0.3127
fc= 77.5hz
Vas = 99.94 L
E.B.P. = 80.1662
Cheers Mike😀
I've tried to ask if there is a rule to the size of a box. Asfar as I know, the box is for the woofer alone. Once thats designed, the mid, and or tweeter is added after. When the rest of the drivers are factored in, is all about maths and crossovers. Aparrently it gets better if you go active.
http://sound.westhost.com/articles.htm
http://sound.westhost.com/biamp-vs-passive.htm
http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisd
You may need to cross over to the Loudspeakers section on this site to look at the other Forums.
I tried the calculator on that site, but it asksfor xmax driver displacement and Net box volume, which I don't have.
This is the T/S parameters that I measured for the Longmill
Re = 3.6 ohms
Zmax =50.3 ohms
Fs = 27Hz
Qms = 4.3690
Qes = 0.3368
Qts = 0.3127
fc= 77.5hz
Vas = 99.94 L
E.B.P. = 80.1662
Cheers Mike😀
yer i tried winisd
but it dont give u like a box design just that port is so big and then u see the curv
i need designs to make a box
im not good enough to do the rest yet
im thinking about making the BK monolith sub "English one"
more tuned to 20hz for the home system
on the site i gave you with the site to make slot port there is in the forums a part to do driver displacement. but i think then u have to know the measurements of the sub and then it can work it out.
what if you have the driver could just measure it your self
but it dont give u like a box design just that port is so big and then u see the curv
i need designs to make a box
im not good enough to do the rest yet
im thinking about making the BK monolith sub "English one"
more tuned to 20hz for the home system
on the site i gave you with the site to make slot port there is in the forums a part to do driver displacement. but i think then u have to know the measurements of the sub and then it can work it out.
what if you have the driver could just measure it your self
Hello
What driver will you use? When I wanted to do things, I just guesstimated everything. If it looked good, it would be good. I saw Thor on Linkwitz's site and fancied ago.I went to Motabitz and bought the SplX for about £40. I bought it purely on the fact it had a fat surround and figured good Xmax. These cheapy speakers never have Thiele Small's printed on the box and besides a Peerless is over £100. I went to B&Q for some mdf, screws and glue. I hit Maplins for the circuit parts and etched a PCB drawn by hand. Obviously I couldn't measure the drivers, so the components for the Transform were the same for the Thor, even the box was the same.
I ran this lot in my car, with an Alpine amp 2ohm stable bridged 4 ohms and 120w, wow did it sound good. Then I turned the engine on and you couldn't hear it outside the car, (Diesel)!
I decided enough was enough, and bought the thing indoors. I hit ebay for a AC millivoltmeter for £15 incl p&p and a kind person on this site (richie00boy) helped with the driver measuring.
My SPLX is now tuned properly. I'm totaly useless at Math and all that but asking on the Forum and pushing myself to try to understand and learn and with the outcome, the buzz and satisfaction far outweighed anything I threw together before.
http://www.readresearch.co.uk/
Cheers Mike😀
What driver will you use? When I wanted to do things, I just guesstimated everything. If it looked good, it would be good. I saw Thor on Linkwitz's site and fancied ago.I went to Motabitz and bought the SplX for about £40. I bought it purely on the fact it had a fat surround and figured good Xmax. These cheapy speakers never have Thiele Small's printed on the box and besides a Peerless is over £100. I went to B&Q for some mdf, screws and glue. I hit Maplins for the circuit parts and etched a PCB drawn by hand. Obviously I couldn't measure the drivers, so the components for the Transform were the same for the Thor, even the box was the same.
I ran this lot in my car, with an Alpine amp 2ohm stable bridged 4 ohms and 120w, wow did it sound good. Then I turned the engine on and you couldn't hear it outside the car, (Diesel)!
I decided enough was enough, and bought the thing indoors. I hit ebay for a AC millivoltmeter for £15 incl p&p and a kind person on this site (richie00boy) helped with the driver measuring.
My SPLX is now tuned properly. I'm totaly useless at Math and all that but asking on the Forum and pushing myself to try to understand and learn and with the outcome, the buzz and satisfaction far outweighed anything I threw together before.
http://www.readresearch.co.uk/
Cheers Mike😀
http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/drive_un...monolith_du.htm
is the one i want but its for home 🙂 talking to some one thats made one of these with that unit on a different thread and they do sell it in its own box on the site but i have plate amp and that so not spending full out if i can help it.
car subs i would go with the slot port my self and now brace them hehe 🙂
i do tend to go on looks or what i hear
car subs i have is dont use in a box atm
3 x jl10w6v1 2 like brand new 1 is bit crap now think voice coil might gone might sell one of the working ones if it would go for the right price
and the one im using for home
is a compx directed sub
all are 300rms
is the one i want but its for home 🙂 talking to some one thats made one of these with that unit on a different thread and they do sell it in its own box on the site but i have plate amp and that so not spending full out if i can help it.
car subs i would go with the slot port my self and now brace them hehe 🙂
i do tend to go on looks or what i hear
car subs i have is dont use in a box atm
3 x jl10w6v1 2 like brand new 1 is bit crap now think voice coil might gone might sell one of the working ones if it would go for the right price
and the one im using for home
is a compx directed sub
all are 300rms
Ah I wondered how the Longmill sub was coming along. Glad to see you are happy with it and obviously getting more confident and learning more. Thanks for the link to my site.
I do actually have a program I wrote that you put your box volume in and it tells you the panel sizes to get cut, but there is a slight problem with it at the moment or I would put it on my website.
I do actually have a program I wrote that you put your box volume in and it tells you the panel sizes to get cut, but there is a slight problem with it at the moment or I would put it on my website.
OOooooo that sounds nice. cos thats my main problem
use a program it tells me either just 11cf and port lenth
i would have to work out the maths for all of it thickness of wood then brace or what ever. and im lost cos i worry about if its right and so on
i then would buy the wood online cut to size mdf only £15 shipping plus the wood all i goto do the holes glue and Finnish 🙂
and no worries of only 5 cuts at b&q cos of got a tv unit on wait to order wood small shelfs as well so would like to be able to add a box in there 2 for practice then order it all 🙂
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not saying i could help but one of my family does programming think he mainly done vb and c++ so if it something small or what ever he might be able to help unsure tho
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use a program it tells me either just 11cf and port lenth
i would have to work out the maths for all of it thickness of wood then brace or what ever. and im lost cos i worry about if its right and so on
i then would buy the wood online cut to size mdf only £15 shipping plus the wood all i goto do the holes glue and Finnish 🙂
and no worries of only 5 cuts at b&q cos of got a tv unit on wait to order wood small shelfs as well so would like to be able to add a box in there 2 for practice then order it all 🙂
------------
not saying i could help but one of my family does programming think he mainly done vb and c++ so if it something small or what ever he might be able to help unsure tho
------------
Well if you can tell me some facts I will do you one design. I'll list the info I need from you later when I can access my program.
Thanks for the offer on the programming help.
Thanks for the offer on the programming help.
At last...
....hello sir. I did email you via your profile. I've had to wipe my harddrive buy a new cpu and motherboard. Yes, the Longmill was impressive, because I had to buy a new PC( near enough), I couldn't buy any wood, so I used an old wardrobe. How the amp, is it ready?
Cheers Mike.🙂 🙂 🙂
....hello sir. I did email you via your profile. I've had to wipe my harddrive buy a new cpu and motherboard. Yes, the Longmill was impressive, because I had to buy a new PC( near enough), I couldn't buy any wood, so I used an old wardrobe. How the amp, is it ready?
Cheers Mike.🙂 🙂 🙂
ok cool there is a link in thred with the driver off the site
http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/drive_units/bsb/monolith_du.htm
this link to the site pain to get it right or it goes to another part of the site lol
anyway this is the driver hopefully i got it right i will have a look
some called marsh on this forums used this for it
Sub is finished, 75l ported, tuned to 20Hz and it's just flippin awesome, better than I could have imagined.
and
95.4 ltr enclosure tuned around 21hz which provides a -3db of 18hz!
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1184559#post1184559
there is a picture one one of the guys boxes on there.
next think i want to do is 2 book shelf speakers 2 way but be nice to be able to make my own boxes with a program so i can make more in the future
http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/drive_units/bsb/monolith_du.htm
this link to the site pain to get it right or it goes to another part of the site lol
anyway this is the driver hopefully i got it right i will have a look
some called marsh on this forums used this for it
Sub is finished, 75l ported, tuned to 20Hz and it's just flippin awesome, better than I could have imagined.
and
95.4 ltr enclosure tuned around 21hz which provides a -3db of 18hz!
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1184559#post1184559
there is a picture one one of the guys boxes on there.
next think i want to do is 2 book shelf speakers 2 way but be nice to be able to make my own boxes with a program so i can make more in the future
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