I am not sure of the dimensions of the Silmic, I know several here have used them. I believe mouser has them and they usually give all the size dimensions.
I used the 10 uF Audyn, so I didnt need the silmic. Oh, the 4 caps I used for the 4 caps up by the pots was 7/8s inch, I ordered several with same leg width, some were shorter....I think with the slightly shorter stand offs, the 10 uf Audyns would work. They sound fine BTW.
Russellc
It just occurred to me you may not have boards yet... let me measure the electro pad.
Russellc
Russellc
Ok, the circle silk print is 6.78 mm in diameter, the leg width is about 3.39mm the caps could be layed down, sufficient care taken to lengthen leads if necessary and properly insulate them, you are going to have a lot of close quarters parts you know! The main thing it would crowd is the pad for the large (in my case) film caps. If you are using smaller ones along with the Silmics, there may be some "crowding" room.
Russellc
Russellc
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Click on the link I gave for the Elna catalog; p. 169 to 171; gives the dimensions for the silmic caps. Yes, I'll be using the Audyn or Clarity Caps (PWA) for the 10uF. I want to the 1000uF silmic for C1 and C2. See attached photo. Not my board; don't have them yet.
But I thought you said that you measured 7/8" = 22mm for C1 & C2. If so, then a 16mm diam 1000uF silmic cap should fit on those pads (50V); see it on p. 169?
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Im sorry, I thought you meant the small C3 pads next to V- and V+! C1 and 2 measurements: legs are approx 5.64 mm apart, cant see silk as cap installed, my cap is 12.79 diameter and approx. 22.18 mm tall
Some use a 10uF silmic in the small c3 pad and a much smaller, sa .1-1,0 film in the larger C3 location...that would lessen the height of the fat 10uf Audyn.
Then it might be a little crowded. My 12+ mm caps cover it completely.
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![IMG_4109[1].jpg](/community/data/attachments/444/444694-96aeb3b66d2cde0b668cc3ffd66448bc.jpg?hash=lq6ztm0s3g)
No, I want the Audiyn 10uF polyproplylene; I think they will sound better than E-caps, bypassed or not. And to play safe I will go with the 25V silmic for C1 & C2; the 35V might not fit. But I don't understand why you would advise stacking the BA-3 boards vertically (on standoffs) inside the 288mm chassis. With the 4 Goldpoint pots, input selector switch and RCA jacks two pairs of + &- reg boards will never fit in there. Do you mean just making extra room for a pair of 470uF caps per rail per BA-3 board?
On the other hand, as Jan suggested:
If I can fit two pairs of + & - reg boards, the 100VA transformer, two bridges and CRC filters into one 288mm box placed under the BA-3 box, then a pair of 1.5 or 2 foot cables will be long enough. So I might not need the 470uF caps in the BA-3 box. What do you think?
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Only because it takes 1/2 the floor space, myself, I would get (2) 388 cases
and do it like AndrewT said, you wanted to try to get it all in the same case, it was just a suggestion.
I would build them separate, plus with a Gold Point in each one, they would be actual preamps that could be used elsewhere besides this project. Plus, the regulators would fit, no umbilicals, no extra 470 caps, etc.
But thats the beauty of DIY, you get to do it your way!😉
Hope this works out for you,
Russellc
"My way" ; I wish. Only another 2" or so and I could have done exactly like you would above. THAT's how badly limited I am with space. A word to the wise: If you're a single income household, don't have a seriously attractive income and looking to buy a nice house on Long Island (i.e. split level, colonial), better to look elsewhere. The property taxes (school taxes) here will kill you!
Have you thought of putting the BA-3 FE in the F4 case run off the f4 PSU? Then you would just need a box for the volume control/input selector and you are done. Just an idea..
True, another example is the way Timbarnes did it.
I dont think he used regulation on the BA-3 FE, after all, BA-3 amp doesnt use it.
With the build guide showing the 388 case, one board, one power supply and a stereo Goldpoint, it should be apparent double this isnt going to work in a smaller box.
If one will fit, I would wait until store has more 288 chassis and get another, best thought to me would be to save that chassis for another project and get two 388 boxes....although it is expensive!
Russellc
I just finished my single-ended bias boards last night. I'm a little disappointed though. The same 1000uF 25V caps are called out on the bias boards and on the FE, however, on the FE the space to put these caps is WAY smaller than it is on the bias boards...so either I work some magic to get them to fit, or order smaller diameter caps. I used Nichicon Muse ES series. From the article, I left out R219 as it says to add it later if I need to bias more.
I just finished my single-ended bias boards last night. I'm a little disappointed though. The same 1000uF 25V caps are called out on the bias boards and on the FE, however, on the FE the space to put these caps is WAY smaller than it is on the bias boards...so either I work some magic to get them to fit, or order smaller diameter caps. I used Nichicon Muse ES series. From the article, I left out R219 as it says to add it later if I need to bias more.
Interesting, I've wanted to see a single ended BA-3 Amplifier documented here. Please update as you get there...the caps on my complimentary bias boards would never have fit on the FE boards. I ordered several 1000 uF of same voltage as a result. One of those things that slips past you! Now I check the size on these things, and the leg spacing as well.
Russellc
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I just finished my single-ended bias boards last night. I'm a little disappointed though. The same 1000uF 25V caps are called out on the bias boards and on the FE, however, on the FE the space to put these caps is WAY smaller than it is on the bias boards...so either I work some magic to get them to fit, or order smaller diameter caps. I used Nichicon Muse ES series. From the article, I left out R219 as it says to add it later if I need to bias more.
Nichicon ES is a bipolar cap, correct? That's why it's so big. Is it OK to use a non polarized cap on the bias boards and front end? I used 50V/1000uf nichicon KZ on my front end boards. They did not fit...I zip tied them above the boards.
I did some quick searching, and it seems that bipolar caps are typically used on actual audio signals, but should NOT be used in power supply areas, like on the PSU. If anyone can let me know on the caps, that would be great.
In the case, I did some fiddling with the leads and was able to fit them:
I did some quick searching, and it seems that bipolar caps are typically used on actual audio signals, but should NOT be used in power supply areas, like on the PSU. If anyone can let me know on the caps, that would be great.
In the case, I did some fiddling with the leads and was able to fit them:
I am pretty sure a bipolar cap in both those locations is a bad idea but I was hoping someone smarter than me would chime in before I went ahead and said that. Typically, bipolar caps are used in AC coupling situations only...
Here's the schematics if any one wants to take a look. The caps in question are C1/C2 on the front end and C101 on the output stage.
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That's the wrong schematic. I'm running the single-ended bias/outputs. It's C207 or C102, depending on which schematic you're looking at. My little 10uF C101 is also bipolar though.
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