With two 8” you need to decide on a few things first:
Do you want them to be in a 2,5 way setup where only one of them play midrange?
Or so you plan to let them both play equally from the same DSP amp?
The reason is the ohm. Do you buy two 4 ohm serial or two 16 ohm parallels?
Which further will decide on baffle step correction in your baffle sizing and in turn the depth for the proper volume, again depending on whether you plan to use the subs in music mode, ie should the mains be able to play lower than 80Hz or not. Lots of things to consider before choosing drivers.
Do you want them to be in a 2,5 way setup where only one of them play midrange?
Or so you plan to let them both play equally from the same DSP amp?
The reason is the ohm. Do you buy two 4 ohm serial or two 16 ohm parallels?
Which further will decide on baffle step correction in your baffle sizing and in turn the depth for the proper volume, again depending on whether you plan to use the subs in music mode, ie should the mains be able to play lower than 80Hz or not. Lots of things to consider before choosing drivers.
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2-way pure, no 2,5 or 3-way. The reason is simply DSP and Amp. I want to keep things simple for now. I am not saying a later upgrade is not possible just that right now, definitely 2-way.
Yes, I am aware of the ohm. I've been looking and seeing some weird numbers there. Neither 4 nor 16. Usually something like 3.0, 3.3, 3.7, 5.9, 6.2 etc. Not sure what I'd begin with those numbers, except that it means 6.0, 6.6 etc in serial.
Baffle step correction: I have to read up on this, not something I am familiar with.
Considering mains: they will always play in tandem with subwoofers, there is no need to use them solo. It's basically a 3-way system, and will be treated as such when setting up the DSP, but they are simply not in the same box.
I am actually thinking about building a baffle "wall", most likely a size of about 1x1 meter. And the speaker will be mounted in the middle. I'm was watching some videos from Anthony Grimaldi, and seen there that he actually recommends separate baffle walls for each speaker, not one big wall. That comes well considering that I have tower-subwoofers, giving me enough space for that. I will however not make it top to bottom, but only about 1m high, as I want to leave myself space for acoustic measures like HH-resonators and plate absorbers. And the rest of the space, whatever is left, will be filled with sonorock (also inside the baffle wall).
Yes, I am aware of the ohm. I've been looking and seeing some weird numbers there. Neither 4 nor 16. Usually something like 3.0, 3.3, 3.7, 5.9, 6.2 etc. Not sure what I'd begin with those numbers, except that it means 6.0, 6.6 etc in serial.
Baffle step correction: I have to read up on this, not something I am familiar with.
Considering mains: they will always play in tandem with subwoofers, there is no need to use them solo. It's basically a 3-way system, and will be treated as such when setting up the DSP, but they are simply not in the same box.
I am actually thinking about building a baffle "wall", most likely a size of about 1x1 meter. And the speaker will be mounted in the middle. I'm was watching some videos from Anthony Grimaldi, and seen there that he actually recommends separate baffle walls for each speaker, not one big wall. That comes well considering that I have tower-subwoofers, giving me enough space for that. I will however not make it top to bottom, but only about 1m high, as I want to leave myself space for acoustic measures like HH-resonators and plate absorbers. And the rest of the space, whatever is left, will be filled with sonorock (also inside the baffle wall).
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1m baffle is a good idea IMO. Much better than the slim/deep tower trend these days. Allow you to use the depth of the room much better. How the screen will impact HF response is hard to guess but I still think horns and compression drivers give you more flexibility in terms of sensitivity adjustment. Find some high sensitive 8” PA drivers that have a smooth response way over 3000hz makes it easier to match with a horn maybe at 2,5kHz and less DSP needed. Especially since you don’t need deep bass in these you have better options selecting PA.
Another example from Faital:
FaitalPRO 8FE200 8" Professional Midbass 8 Ohm
Another example from Faital:
FaitalPRO 8FE200 8" Professional Midbass 8 Ohm
You misunderstood maybe. The speaker is smaller. The black surface is the speaker rest is just a wooden wall made of couple of layers of some chipboard or something. Simply so that I can bend it. There will be a hole in the wood where I put the actual speaker. There will be 2-3mm of space on each side of the speaker itself, since I can't do it 100% flush, but that should be fine IMO. I could also do it flat, but I think rounded surface will diffuse more.
I am aware of the acoustic cloth, I have it at home for testing, however didn't yet manage to do it. I don't have horns, only ribbons, but when I do some acoustics in the room, I will know more.
I am aware of the acoustic cloth, I have it at home for testing, however didn't yet manage to do it. I don't have horns, only ribbons, but when I do some acoustics in the room, I will know more.
Interesting project for sure. So the speakers should be about 30*70 front baffle to hold a few 8" and a tweeter of some kind and maybe 30cm deep to give around 50l. How do plan to keep them "stable" in the 1m frame? Be aware that the frame will somehow be part of the speakers baffle when estimating baffle response. But with DSP and proper measurement you can fix that easily as long as you have sensitive drivers.
I have to say though, you're stealing a lot from the room with building in everything. How big is the room?
I have to say though, you're stealing a lot from the room with building in everything. How big is the room?
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Speakers will simply reside on a shelf behind the wall. It's no problem, since there's wooden construction around, and I can fix it almost on anything.
I have absolutely no idea what you mean with stealing a lot from the room with building in everything??
The room is 25m2, 2,1-2,2m high. I posted that in the first post I believe.
I have absolutely no idea what you mean with stealing a lot from the room with building in everything??
The room is 25m2, 2,1-2,2m high. I posted that in the first post I believe.
I was referring mostly to the rear wall, it seems you take away close to 3-4m2 with all the things going on there. I'm not saying its a bad idea if you isolate it. Ill leave the further advice to someone with experience for inbuilt speakers, this is a rather complex project with lots of pitfalls. Keeping things more "open" would give more flexibility in position and mods if things don't turn out how you expected and with that budget that would be a shame. The speaker drivers are the last peace of the puzzle here, and the easy part. Room itself and damping is the complexity. You say you built the subs already? Care to share a pic of the room as it is now? Not with all the plans?
Have you considered focusing the budget in the LCR speakers only?
And for Atmos/Surround, use something cheaper, that you could replace latter when funds allow?
I use these for Atmos/Surround, with great results:
- Magnat Interior IC 82 | hochwertige Wand- und Deckeneinbaulautsprecher | fur Feuchtraume (Badezimmer) geeignet | max 180 Watt | 1 Stuck - weiss | MAGNAT Onlineshop
80€ each : Magnat Interior IC 82, 2-Wege Decken-Einbaulautsprecher, Einbaulautsprecher fur die Decke: Amazon.de: Audio & HiFi
And for Atmos/Surround, use something cheaper, that you could replace latter when funds allow?
I use these for Atmos/Surround, with great results:
- Magnat Interior IC 82 | hochwertige Wand- und Deckeneinbaulautsprecher | fur Feuchtraume (Badezimmer) geeignet | max 180 Watt | 1 Stuck - weiss | MAGNAT Onlineshop
80€ each : Magnat Interior IC 82, 2-Wege Decken-Einbaulautsprecher, Einbaulautsprecher fur die Decke: Amazon.de: Audio & HiFi
Oh yes, I know it's hard if you don't know what represents what. The wall is not closed. All walls are acoustically open, because they are only covered with acoustic cloth. Same front or back. All acoustic modules are going to be hidden behind those, be it absorbers or resonators. Also the rear wall will have surround speakers hidden, together with the subs.
Yes, I have. Somewhat. They should be same speakers though.
I already have Atmos speakers, not sure if I am going to use them: Dali E-50.
They do sound great, but I am not sure how they will do with new speakers.
At first I will most likely be running a combination of all. I will take as surround my old XTZ, front new and atmos those. And then save a little money as I am going forward, and ultimately go full active via dedicated amps and DSPs.
Have a look here, there might be some project that suits your needs:
- MTG Designs - DIY Speaker Plans
You can probably contact the author for a help on finding the best values for an active crossover.
- MTG Designs - DIY Speaker Plans
You can probably contact the author for a help on finding the best values for an active crossover.
